badjuju

Thanks a ton guys, i'll look into it further!

Any explanation as to why?

There is something wrong, this is not a solution, but just fyi, the hei will always get hot, so once this is all sorted out, you might look at putting arctic silver under it as a heatsink compound http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm just to help out with heat dissipation. going with a silver compound is a little verbose, but that is right in line with the theme of this whole site.

Something which spins is starting to hit something which doesn't appear to give when it's hit. Under acceleration with anyone or anything in the car other than myself, or when i turn right, or when i go over a small bump, something repeatedly hits something else in the rear right section of the car. The rear shocks are the factory installed 1981 280zx turbo oil filled shocks. the front shocks are a year old (shipping problem on the rears when i bought all four, never ended up getting them) Does this sound like something that would be fixed by simply replacing my rear shocks? I'm pretty sure it would just stop entirely, but i thought i'd ask just in case i'm missing something deeper than that. Thanks guys, Alec

First, don't call us retards. jk, lol I don't know much about v3, but I know you can drive an ignitino coil with it without an ignition module, which sounds neat, because an HEI module is just one more thing to burn up. I personally have had great luck with msI on a pcb 2.2, once I got up and running. The interface, to my knowledge is pretty much the same, since you'll be using megatune either way. 2.2 is cheaper, the companies are probably getting close to just wanting to get rid of them, yada yada. however, it's still an awesome computer, and unless you're running a wheel decoder and nitrous, a 2.2 will work fine, without a daughterboard.

would there be any harm in trying one, then trying the other if it doesn't run or runs choppy as hell?

next stop, working fuel gauge.

[dunce] yeah so i was outta gas. [/dunce]

Another question... umm, if one were to disconnect the line going to the fuel tank from the fuel pump, and no fuel were to come out, at all, completely bone dry, would that mean that one's tank was empty? ...

Still confused... where does the screwdriver go, and why would it click if i put anything up against the injector?

I've got a new fuel filter and fuel pump in the car right now... ready to be installed, because i thought that the origional problem was being caused by the pump. Those won't be hard to do. The fpr is an easy one if i can find a z at the yard with a fuel rail on it (unlikely ) However, i'm confused by your reply, what do you mean by "put a screwdrive up to every injector and make sure they are all firing"

Three days later, my afr is up at 20:1. I can't accelerate. Basically I'm having the same acceleration issues I was having before, except now it's reading 20 instead of 9. I'm wondering, uhh, what do I do? The resistance on all of them reads 2.7-2.8 ohms, and i'm wondering what my course of action should be... Is there a chance that it's still a bad injector though the resistance is reading right? my fuel rpessure is reading about 20 psi when the car is running.

Hey guys, this is a direct subpost from one of mine in the L6 forum... Here's a link. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112744 Basically, my fourth injector shorted out on the ground side, turning it on for 30 seconds to 5 minutes each time the wire got near the ground. This was causing my afr to go down to 9.0:1 or so (LC-1). I fixed the ground as soon as I saw it, and the 9:1 crap stopped. Three days later, my afr is up at 20:1. I can't accelerate. Basically I'm having the same acceleration issues I was having before, except now it's reading 20 instead of 9. I'm wondering, uhh, what do I do? The resistance on all of them reads 2.7-2.8 ohms, and i'm wondering what my course of action should be... Is there a chance that it's still a bad injector though the resistance is reading right? my fuel rpessure is reading about 20 psi when the car is running.

Yeah well, this is pretty good news for me, It didn't happen during full throttle, if at all, it would happen constantly, throughout the 1-3k rpm it could handle, and when it wasn't happening, it wouldn't happen at all. also, i have an automatic, so there is never a really high vaccuum during decel. in my experience, every time oil is spilled on something that gets hot, it burns off white. the builder of my truck's old engine managed to break off a valve cover bolt (?), so the passenger side valve cover wouldn't seal right. oil would just pour onto the header, creating a white smoke screen behind the truck. also, the first time i changed the oil on my old golf (first oil change i'd ever done) i spilled some oil on the engine, and it burned off white when i was sitting in burger king. in addition, i only saw the white when i was going very slow, like to stop, right before i called AAA. this would mean (since i could still see the blue smoke behind me) that the smoke wasn't exhaust from my engine's combustion, but just exhaust from my engine's surface, as if i'd spilled something. This is all hopes though, i should be able to find out this weekend. thanks for everyone's help

K get this ****, yesterday I got white smoke. Car wouldn't start. I got towed home. I get home, and start the car. No smoke. This is what has been happening. Since i was blowing blue smoke, i figured, wtf, i'm probably burning oil. so i put oil in the car before i go off to work, noticing i spilled a little. I noticed white smoke just as I couldn't drive my car anymore due to god knows what. i get home and the engine starts, and there is no blue smoke, and no white smoke. i'm standing over the engine bay, all of the sudden my fuel pressure drops to 20 from 30 psi, running. upon closer inspection, i see that the wire that grounds through megasquirt, is grounding through my sh*tty wiring job, on my fuel pressure gauge. so every once in a while, the fourth injector would just, turn on. and stay on. this would create such a rich condition that i would pop blue smoke. the car wouldn't run anymore because of how much fuel there was in the engine, and i was going slow enough that i could see the oil burning off of the exhaust manifold. so, i don't think i have a blown head gasket.

So if i were to call nissan and buy a head gasket... it would be an hks?

Is the hks the best? what is the absolute best, and how much does it cost?

the stock is inline, isn't it? I bought this next day air (damnit) so i could have it in tonight so i could still drive to work (damnit), so if there is a way to make an in tank work for less than the $50 i dumped on shipping, i'd do it in a heartbeat

K i'm dumb. yeah, it's in intank, not inline. would someone tell me if this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GSL392-Walbro-255-HP-Inline-Fuel-Pump-GSL-392-COMPLETE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33555QQihZ006QQitemZ160006795223QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVWQQtcZphoto is the right one, before i buy it?

'nother pic

K, so I just got my new walbro 255, and I'm having some trouble in the matter that, there is no pickup line... can someone help me out with this? Is this not the right one?

81 280zx turbo Msns-E 283014 miles I have blown about 4 fuel pump fuses in the past month (10-20 amps) and now my car is starting to bog way down and it appears to just go way rich during accel, or what i wish was accel, because i put the pedal down and nothin happens. the engine's sound gets way way deeper and it just creeps ahead slowly accelerating. I have purchased a walbro 255, which I'm going to pick up in about 2 hours, because I've been told two or three times that a fuel pump will start to blow fuses as it leaves this world, and the crappy acceleration just sounds like this is what is happening. However, i just had a scary thought, my weedwhacker burns 1:50 gas:oil, and it puts out blue smoke sometimes... am i burning oil, or is it just running uber rich (the car, not the weedwhacker)

The video apparantly explains the difference between "aquagen" and "brown gas", but like i said, i can't watch the f*cker

http://hytechapps.com/ Check these guys out... from what I've gathered from friends, (damn quicktime won't let me play the 16 minute introduction video) These guys made a generator of hydrogen/oxygen gas (it's basic middle school chemistry, electrolysis) which will pump it into whatever line you wish... Apparantly they've run it into the creator's escort as a fuel additive and ended up boosting the mpg of the car from ~20 to ~50. He's been in front of the senate talking about this, and I think it's the next big thing... Since this is a hybrid site, I want one of you to buy one of these and try it. I would but sadly, I have no money. Basically he's found a way to do what oil companies don't want us to be able to do. Think about the reasons we don't yet have hydrogen powered EVERYTHING. It's because these big companies who have controlled damn near everything for the better part of a century haven't figured out how to f*ck us into having to put a hose in our car to power it. Instead, this guy made an electrolysis setup that fits in your car, using the alternator to generate current required to seperate H2O into H2 and O2 in a ratio of 2:1 (H2, O... 2x as much H than O)

Glad to hear you got it straightened out homie