badjuju

Actually, I'm running without a pullup resistor to the HEI module, but I still need one on the tach line. Mine absolutely wouldn't spark if I had a pullup on the HEI module.

Like batman.

I block mine out because it's innapropriate, don't know how I got away with SUCKMY

http://www.injectedperformance.com/ViewCat.aspx?VID=80 Uhh, never heard of this before, checking if it's just a weird typo, bad research or i'm just ignorant?

Looks awesome though man... lol hmm, damnit now i'm trying to figure out how to run individual throttle bodies on my turbocharged, fuel injected car

What class are you in where the age and quality of wire you use will bump you up a class, but independentfully programmable efiengine management won't? sounds great for the second reason though, it's going to be a pain in the *** if i have to sell my car at some point... lol "by the way, i'm the only one on the planet who knows how this exact car runs"

Um, on the LC1 output I have running into megasquirt, I have it set to 0V at .5 lambda and 5 volts at 1.5 lambda, it works fine

It would be awesome to use as a core, but depending on where you have the actual piping going inside the engine bay, you wouldn't want a better conducting piping if it runs next to the engine, or at least close enough to it for it to get hot due to engine heat. Or hell, See if you can find 2 1/2" copper piping with a heatsink running the length of the pipe, a couple of dc fans, have active cooling on that mofo. Or, skip the fans, put it in a vat of water, (after plugging the ends of course) and freeze it... that way you have ice built up on your heatsinks before you even race, use your normal ic piping until you get to the track, keep your new piping in a cooler, and install it before staging. (sadly, i was thinking about this idea yesterday at the track)

Dude, 135 pounds just means you've got 65 pounds less weight reduction to worry about than all the other 19 year old z owners lol where in the sh*ttin hell did you get that hood?

BRNDST EATRBBR ^ Christmas vacation reference, anyone?

Man, I was driving to cheer practice (yes, cheer practice) in Kent, Wa, and saw one coming up in the next lane... I felt honored that the driver even looked at me, such a nice car.

actually i can tell you that 029q isn't the latest, he actually released a newer version because of a problem he was having with i think his tooth setup. a buddy of mine was having the same problem, so he just changed it and released it. link in 10... http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?p=127080&highlight=#127080 k, it took like 12 seconds instead of 10. whaddya want from me. I know this probably won't fix your problem, just telling you that if you want the latest, it's not 029q anymore yo

I figured out the other half of my problem, der, get this; I had my o2 sensor set to narrow band, which if you will remember, gives the opposite slope. so it was rich, and autotune tried to corerct for it. then at 14.7 it still read it as rich, and it read the o2 as if it was getting more and more rich as it became more lean. holy learning curve.

i'm calling car protective services... lol can anyone confirm that the switch point is the stoich point?

I'm confused on this post. I was told on msefi to check out autotune, and when i used it it ended up putting my afr around 18 while cruising, which makes me pretty f'n nervous. I'm thinking i have my ego settings wrong, and i'm wondering what to put for them. go with 15.0 for what? what does switch point mean? my lc-1 is set up to run 0-5 volts for .5-1.5 lambda

I set my active above rpm to 10,000. should work so long as you're not going over 10k. I tuned for about 4 hours today, had my buddy changing values as I drove. At... and i'll check on this when i get my laptop charged... I think at 4800 rpm and... 40-50 kpa, it starts bogging. AF is about 15, so we raised the fuel. before we know it we're at about 97 for that value, the afr is down to 11.5-13 ish, but it still bogs. do i need to advance the timing? retard the timing?

My AFR doesn't show up until it's been running about 10 seconds, reason being because there's a warmup period (even if it's already hot) where the LC1 doesn't report, and while the engine is cranking there is no power to the lc1 because of the way the ignition key is setup. Can you tell me how to turn off every enrichment one by one? I've tried turning them all off and I think they're still on

2 parts, One; It's taking about 20 seconds of cranking to start the engine, and when it starts, when I put it into drive, it will die unless I go to about half throttle. Second part: With MSTweak, I can't click the "calculate MAP" button under modify VE Map, and I get an error in the main window saying "Failed loading VSSFactor.inc" In Vexme, no matter what I put in as a log, I never get more than 1 or 2 suggested changes... where am I going wrong, does it only tell you when you need to add fuel? MSLVV just comes up with an error written " ' " when I open a log... Anyone have any suggestions? I know that some of you don't use a tuning program and just do it by reveiwing logs. Those of you that do this, how do ya do it? MS Logs my LC1 as 0-5v at .5-1.5 lambda

Thanks a bunch, I was actually at napa getting a new one as you were typing that.

My starter stopped working, ie it would spin really fast but not engage. I bought a remanufactured napa starter and replaced it, and it will only start if i hit it while it's being given power. It's brand new, and I've greased it like 5 times in hopes that that would help. Anyone know what's going on?

Alls I knows is that Jerry over at DIY will bend over backwards to help a customer out and I've been happy with all the equipment I've bought from him. Lettuce know how it works out man

well see, I want to put a whole new charging system into my Z. I've already replaced the alternator, it's not the alternator. The origional one that I replaced still works actually. so, it's something else. I have been chasing it for like 7 months and i'm just F'n sick of it. Can someone draw me up a diagram or just tell me where all the wires go for a 1 wire alternator? I don't need to know where it goes to in the car, I'm talking like, if it runs to different electrical stuff, relays, fusible links, etc, I want to know how to install a new 1 wire alternator. "one wire goes straight to batt, one goes straight to ground, and one goes to a relay which is switched on by the power switch and blah blah blah" or something like that, rather than "the BW wire goes to the blue wire on the passenger side fusible link box", since I want to run all new wiring to it anyhow. Also, that pic is of my truck, which has an external voltage regulator, while I would assume a new 1 wire that i would install would have an internal.

It's on a chevy c10 pickup, 1967 Anyone know what this part is? I'm sick of messing with my charging system, it seems to work depending on the weather, so I'm just gonna go ahead and run a gm charging system, not just a new alternator. Any way, my alternator runs to this part: anyone know what it is? it's mounted behind the grill.

I'm in monroe, washington, i just did an install on an 81 zxturbo, possibly the most complicated z car ms install, due to the stupid *** CAS system. At any rate, hit me up if you have any questions, or we could just meet up and compare cars. I don't know any z guys in washington other than the z specialties guy. anyways, pm me dude

I've got an innovate LC1, they've got 2 outputs, fully programmable. I have one outputs set to 0 volts at .5 lambda value and 5 volts at 1.5 lambda. The other one I have set to 1 volt at 10.0 air fuel ratio and 2 volts at 19.9 air fuel ratio. The lambda output is going into megasquirt, and the air fuel ratio output is going to a digital volt meter that I mounted in the face of my change dish. Looks pretty sick, I'll try and take a pic today