rx8ss

The one I got is EWS tubing and the other is DOM. NHRA page on roll bar/cages http://www.nhraonline.com/contacts/tech_faq.html

That is their normal price. Shipping depends on what zone you are in. http://www.swracecars.com/store/view-item-search.aspx?Search=11-5095

Keep in mind that those roll bars are not NHRA legal unless at least .118 thick to maintain the .095 wall thickness at the bends.

Lucky me, I have a welder,cut saw, and a large hammer. It will fit when I am done. Well except for the C3 headers, those just do not fit. As for driving it. I drove it from my friends house to mine and pulled the engine. I think the car is going to be a lot of fun. Is there any sub connectors and are they really needed? Thanks

I may take the armrest off for the addional clearance. But the panels are going to stay on if at all possible.

So far so good on the fit. I had to stretch out the main hoop a bit to get it closer to the outer channels and out of the seat belt boxes. The rear bars will angle slightly to get good metal next the spare tire well. The front bars are a little (lot) tight on the doors and me. I going to shorten them up a little to lower the front so I can get in and out of the car. I will get some pics as I go.

The answer in no. They go straight down from the heads and will not clear steering or tension rod housings. I have a nice set of C3 headers for sale.

Check your PCV positive crank case ventilation and where it is connected to the engine. Some times people connect this to the wrong place and went decelling your engine goes into high vacuum and pulls oil thru a vacuum hose and burns it (smoke). Check the baffle is see if is full of oil and not draining back into engine. Good luck.

After reading this whole thread I went to the salvage yard and picked up a set of 98-03 Calvalier door seals. They do fit a little loose and for the 90 deg in the corner is where I butted them together. When my kids find my camara I will post some picks. I notched the upper piece so it goes all the way to the rear went all the way around and then put the other piece up against the top one. I am going to get some of the black tar sealer to put in the weather seal channel to hold it better. Doors shut great with no issues. Great info, keep it coming. I for got to bring a piece of the hatch to see if I could match that one to something. Thanks

What can be done on the cheap to fix these? My search function will not work. Thanks

It is a weld in, and if not, it will be. I guess the above story just goes to show you that not any monkey can work on a car and do it right. Thank for anwering.

S&W already sells one for the 240. All you have to do is order it. Mine was $279.00 shipped for a 8 Point. Thanks for at least replying.

Why will no one answer this question?

Has anyone tried c3 corvette headers?

Please check for virus. Mine showed one.

Looks nice. I will be putting an LT1 in mine when I get it back from the machine shop. I went 383 splayed caps, forged internals, decked, balanced, and stock heads worked over. Should do nicely. Keep it going. Looking good.

I went ahead and ordered the S&W 8 point for the 240z. We shall see if I can get it to fit in the 280z since it does not look as though anyone has tried this before.

Does anyone know. I did the research and nothing conclusive on it. Thanks for your help.

Ok, what is ment by position?

I was looking around and ran across these headers. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PRC01/10-1832 And they look a lot like the C3 vette headers. I was wondering if the C3 headers would fit the 280z? Thanks

I was looking around and found these. I do not know anything about them. If someone does please speak up. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PRC01/10-1832 Thanks

Will a 240Z cage fit in a 280z. S&W makes a cage for the 240 and not the 280 and was wondering if the inside diminsions were the same on both cars. Thanks

This is my take on the LT1 intake install. I have built many lt1's and have not had any problems. You have to clean all rtv off of the intake and engine. I use a air die grinder with a 3m pad (brown) to clean the complete intake and engine mating sufaces. Then once all material is cleaned, wipe off with carb cleaner to remove the oily residue that is left over. Do not take any metal off by pushing hard to clean, as this will cause problems with sealing. I use black rtv. First place a dab of rtv in the corners where the gasket meets with the head/eng on all four corners. Place gasket into the rtv. Now run a 1/4" bead on the front and rear block surfaces. Let is set for a few minutes. Now take the intake and hold above the block/heads and set it directly down on the engine not sliding it to the front or rear, this is what causes most leaks. Insert all the bolts and tighten in a circlular pattern starting from the center bolts in four steps to the recomended touque. Now let it set for 24hrs and no less. This will allow the rtv to set up fully. As a side note I have found that excessive crank case pressure (blow by) can cause leaks as well as a leaky oil pressure sending unit or added oil pressure lines. In one case The heads had been milled so much that the intake no longer set sqaure in the valley. This how I do it, does not make right or wrong. Good luck and LT1's rule

I got this from a friend and am working on it slowly. It has a 350 eng that needs rebuilt. These are 15 x 7 weld racing wheels with 9.5 et drag tires and skinnies up front.