EvilC
-
Posts
1755 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
7
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by EvilC
-
-
Well Pete I tried what you said and it fits and does spin freely. It was ordered from Nissan.
Joe, I see the diverter section you are talking about.
Like it was stated, at least it is cast instead of the stamp metal. Next need to find out if there is stil a source in Japan or Cananda.
-
Well accordnig to JohnC's picture - what I have is the diesel water pump. But is you look at OZ's picture, it looks like the gas pump except for the fact the divider by the blades is long rather than short. So....I believe it is a diesel pump. Maybe someone ordered a gas water pump more recently from Nissan so we can take a looks.
-
Well placed an order 3 days ago and got this:
-
Ready to make full payment plus shipping when ready.
-
Yes the internet brings everyone closer!
The block should be fine, if not you can always find a 280z block and use that. No real again in over paying for a F54 turbo block. I converted a head to solid lifters last year from hydraulic so that won't be a big deal if you have to but like I said....Pete is running the P90A head with no issues plus you are going to use a stock came.
-
I would have the crank cleaned up, hot tank the block & check for cracks, hone the bores and make sure the block deck is straight. As for the head, I would have them just clean her up and use it. Pete Sanders (z-ya) is making 300hp on his P90A head with no issues.
How do the pistons look all cleaned up?
-
I was planning on doing that since the L26 is running great but if you have one I can cough up the money for then I will just wait and do it once like Pete advised. I just have to pay up some debt someone else caused me
so for now throw it on my tab! Here is a real newbie question......I know the answer but here we go:
How long is the break in process and is it true you should run the car at various rpms for proper break in? Is there a physical change you can see, example - smoke color from the tail pipe?
-
Engine break-in period is a myth. Break that bad boy in on a dyno and you're good to go. I broke my built k20 in on the dyno on first start-up. Did a leakdown a few weeks later and the numbers were perfect.
Well I don't think you "broke" yours on the dyno on first start-up
How long were the engine dyno runs?
-
Looking good. I need to stop by since now I have all toys packed away for the winter.
-
Pete I hear you. I have been doing lots and lots of reading trying to tie in all the points for it to make sense to me. As you can see, I am going off of a piston design Joe was already running.
So back to the newbie info and how quench area ties in two forms of failure and how/why head/piston/timing is all related:
So we start here review of “normal combustionâ€-
It is the burning of a fuel and air mixture charge in the combustion chamber. It should burn in a steady, even fashion across the chamber, originating at the spark plug and progressing across the chamber in a three dimensional fashion. Similar to a pebble in a glass smooth pond with the ripples spreading out, the flame front should progress in an orderly fashion. The burn moves all the way across the chamber and quenches (cools) against the walls and the piston crown. The burn should be complete with no remaining fuel-air mixture. Note that the mixture does not "explode" but burns in an orderly fashion.
Detonation:
Detonation is the spontaneous combustion of the end-gas (remaining fuel/air mixture) in the chamber. It always occurs after normal combustion is initiated by the spark plug. The initial combustion at the spark plug is followed by a normal combustion burn. For some reason, likely heat and pressure, the end gas in the chamber spontaneously combusts. The key point here is that detonation occurs after you have initiated the normal combustion with the spark plug.
Detonation causes a very high, very sharp pressure spike in the combustion chamber but it is of a very short duration. If you look at a pressure trace of the combustion chamber process, you would see the normal burn as a normal pressure rise, and then all of a sudden you would see a very sharp spike when the detonation occurred. That spike always occurs after the spark plug fires. The sharp spike in pressure creates a force in the combustion chamber. It causes the structure of the engine to ring, or resonate, much as if it were hit by a hammer. This noise or vibration is what a knock sensor picks up.
Detonation causes three types of failure:
1. Mechanical damage (broken ring lands)
2. Abrasion (pitting of the piston crown)*
3. Overheating (scuffed piston skirts due to excess heat input or high coolant temperatures)
*Another thing detonation can cause is a sandblasted appearance to the top of the piston. The piston near the perimeter will typically have that kind of look if detonation occurs. It is a swiss-cheesy look on a microscopic basis. The detonation, the mechanical pounding, actually mechanically erodes or fatigues material out of the piston. You can typically expect to see that sanded look in the part of the chamber most distant from the spark plug, because if you think about it, you would ignite the flame front at the plug, it would travel across the chamber before it got to the farthest reaches of the chamber where the end gas spontaneously combusted. That's where you will see the effects of the detonation; you might see it at the hottest part of the chamber in some engines, possibly by the exhaust valves. In that case the end gas was heated to detonation by the residual heat in the valve.
FACT
Engines that are detonating will tend to overheat, because the boundary layer of gas gets interrupted against the cylinder head and heat gets transferred from the combustion chamber into the cylinder head and into the coolant. So it starts to overheat. The more it overheats, the hotter the engine, the hotter the end gas, the more it wants to detonate, the more it wants to overheat. It's a snowball effect. That's why an overheating engine wants to detonate and that's why engine detonation tends to cause overheating.
Pre-ignition:
Pre-ignition is defined as the ignition of the mixture prior to the spark plug firing. Anytime something causes the mixture in the chamber to ignite prior to the spark plug event it is classified as pre-ignition. With pre-ignition, the ignition of the charge happens far ahead of the spark plug firing in the compression. There is no very rapid pressure spike like with detonation. Instead, it is a tremendous amount of pressure which is present for a very long dwell time, i.e., the entire compression stroke. That's what puts such large loads on the parts. There is no sharp pressure spike to resonate the block and the head to cause any noise. So you never hear it, the engine just blows up! That's why pre-ignition is so insidious. It is hardly detectable before it occurs. When it occurs you only know about it after the fact. It causes a catastrophic failure very quickly because the heat and pressures are so intense. The engine just blows up!
Octane rating or octane number is a standard measure of the anti-knock properties (i.e. the performance) of a motor fuel. The higher the octane number, the more compression the fuel can withstand before detonating. In broad terms, fuels with a higher octane rating are used in high-compression engines that generally have higher performance. This is why you hear a pinging sound when you use 87 in an engine that is rated to use 93 and lack power when you are going by the feel of the pants.
I will address timing and such at length later in this thread as I understand it.
So with this information, it is clear to see why the p90 head would be ideal for turbo application based on its compression characteristics and chamber design. Proper head work would only increase the efficiency of the head and help prolong the life of the engine along with proper tuning.
Here is a good read: http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articles/Engine/Detonation/index.php
-
Cylinder head quench area- what is it and what does it look like? Why is it needed?
Quench or squish area is typically the flat area on the top of the piston that's almost level with the top of the block deck. It must have a corresponding flat area on the deck surface of the head to qualify as quench area.
This picture here is the best visual representation for me:
If you look at a combustion chamber, you will usually see these flat areas, and they will have the volume of the actual combustion chamber between them. When the piston is compressing the mixture, as the piston nears the head, the flat areas on the head and piston come together and force the mixture from those areas to "squish" into the chamber, where the spark plug and burning mixture reside, so you achieve a more complete burn.
Here is a stock E88 head:
Here is a stock P90 head:
Comparing the two heads above, you can see the flat area of the p90 head to help achieve the quench or “squirting†into the area needed. The e88 head has a round chamber with no quench area and doesn’t help with this turbo application. The quench area also runs cooler than the rest of the chamber / piston. These lower temperatures are where the “quench†comes from and make sense when you think about the term “quench your thirstâ€.
When properly designed, the quench areas can have a tremendous effect on the quality of combustion, and allow higher compression ratios.
Here is a good read on related issues:
http://www.davidandjemma.com/mazda/FAQ/quench.htm
Another engine building tool: http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/
-
As promised for the newbies like me, I wil clear up the info as I understand it and post pictures!
Yeah Pete, I have all winter but would like to track one down sooner than later to get this thing going, if not spring will be here and track days start again for the red Z, lol.
-
Savage, still offereing this service? I am thinking of changing brake setup on the LS1 powered Z and interested in testing out some of these ideas we talked about here. I will send you a pm.
-
That is looking much better. I like the new piping for the IC. I just noticed the engine mounts you are using? Also is that another pump or filter in the engine bay up on the firewall?
Keep up the work.....you keep me motivated!
-
Seems from reading on the net that this place is great to buy parts from: buyfordracing.com
I see there are two different size pistons when ordering the front calipers 38mm and 40mm hence the info below.
Remember when ordering that you need banjo bolts in most situations, so make sure that you include it in your purchase if need be.
Fine Thread Banjo Bolts ( M10×1.0 ) Ford part # W708034-S900
1994 to 2002 Cobra
1999 to 2003 GT
2003 Cobra built until July 2002
2001 Bullitt
Course Thread Banjo Bolts ( M10×1.5 ) Ford part # N802724-S150
1994 to 1998 GT
2003 Cobra built after July 2002
2003 10th Anniversary SVT Cobra
2004 Cobra
All thanks go to this site.
http://www.schofieldcomputer.com/myC...rdpress/?p=160
Info above I took from another forum.
-
Pete,
Makes sense what you are saying. I do need to double check the pin height - believe it is wrong. In a twist of events, I can't track down a P90 head local to me...go figure! If I had one, I would just assemble the engine that way and be done.
-
However, there're so many projects here that you can also choose based on users experience.
Here's the link (you have basic, advanced & expert topics)
You are right but I really would like to understand what I am buying and paying for. Like I said, I know the GT35R is the way to go but why?
Learning is half the fun!
-
So my plan to break this engine is as follows:
Since the short block is together, I would like to pull the head off of the (L26) that is in the car right now and slap that on. A few reasons - 1 I would like to break the engine in with no boost. N/A is the safe way before I go boosting this thing and trying to keep my foot out of it. 2 the engine is running that is in the 260z so I can take it out and use the head. 3 this saves my from spending money because the rebuild SUs and intake is there and I can reuse my exhaust until late Spring.
I believe the CR will be 9.7:1 - check my math.
E88 head - 44.7cc
Nismo HG - 1mm
Ross Pistons - using 87mm bore, flat top piston, pin height 32.5mm?? that is the number I need to double check or measure correctly?
Rods L24 - 133mm
Crank LD28 - 83mm
So displacement is 2960.cc = L30
Ok I didn't measure any of these values, some taken from known values and piston info from the piston card.
I plan to double check all values when final assembly is taking place. I plan on ordering a new water pump this weekend from the dealer and hopefully put this engine in before the snow gets here! At the same time I will upgrade the alternator to a zx one for now. Plans are to go to a GM alternator down the road.
-
John, is there a knob to adjust those struts once it is installed?
-
I was wondering if out Z brothers to the north of us (Canada) has had any luck with their dealerships and maybe left over supply. Did the L28D make its way to Canada?
-
Thanks, now I know where to look.
-
Back to the fun!
So now it is time to read about turbos, learn how to read the maps correctly and break out the calculator!
So there are two different turbos right now in play. Already in the stash of parts there is the GT3582R as mentioned before with a .82 trim and also a GT3076 unknown A/R at this time.
So how to pick the best turbo? I can go with what was known to work (GT35R .63) and move along and be happy with it or research what was researched so I can understand. The GT3076 used asking price is $650 local so if anyone is going to chime in just a little background info.
So the plan is to really understand what my needs are and what the engine is capable of. I see Tony D all the time post when others post about the lbs of boost they are running and it is for good reason. Many people get caught up in "I am running 36 lbs to make 400hp blah blah blah".
So here is what I have - L30 short block complete, I am going to be using a stock p90 head and a non-webbed manni.
My knowns:
L30 Cylinder Volume = 516.35 cc (subject to change - need to double check piston card)
Head Volume = 53.6 cc (stock p90)
First I have to calculte how much air is moving through the engine at any given time. Here is the link I will be following and posting back here to check my logic....stay tuned:
-
ozconnection - are these pumps still sold by Nissan down your way?
-
We are ready!
so for now throw it on my tab! 
PALLNET FUEL RAILS
in Vendor's Forum
Posted
email sent