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EvilC

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Posts posted by EvilC

  1. So my CCWs saw a few track days and the brake dust put a real big hurting on the shine. So I had them repolished and cleared this time so it will be much easier to clean. I also change the color of the centers because I wanted a different look. There are about two or three of us here with our cars looking pretty much the same. Hope to have them on the car soon and see if I like it. :D

     

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  2. Mike def sorry to hear about your dad.

     

    As you can see why I needed to do some trimming :D -

     

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    As I dial the car in some more, I may do some more trimming. I don't have enough track days on the car for me to be "finished". I am runninf 250lb springs in the rear of my car.

     

    Sidenote:

     

    What rear break setup do you have with the 5 lug? Are those MM stubs?

  3. I have also installed a FAST 92 intake and TB along with a FAST fuel rail. For now to get the car running I am going to run stock injectors. The plan is to get the car started in about a week. I am going to run my old exhaust system until next year. Once I have the SS long tubes here, I will look to do a head and cam combo. I just want to get her back on the road and start fabbing up a custom intake box and blocking off the front of the car from getting so much air under the hood. More pics to follow. Also got my CCWs refinished :wink:

     

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  4. Pictures as promised. Just finished the tank yesterday and it is ready to be installed in the car.

     

    ATL drop in fuel cell.....notice the trap doors in the black box (3 of them) plus the pump and filter is in there. The other two trap doors are custom where the black box is mounted to. The white line is my feed and the black line is the return. I have it dumping right back into the black box.

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    Finished product

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  5. Ahh got it. Further out from the center the easier it is to stop the disk! I kept thinking heat dissipation was the only reason for a larger rotor. I'm glad I asked :)

     

     

    Guess you had to read it on the internet to believe me, we won't get into the issue of number of pistons in the caliper and how that effects braking also. For right now, as we know.....you need to change the rear pads and do another "brake test". Also need to do it on the same pavement setting and near the same road temp.

     

    With the stock setup right now and the 6 piston fronts/240sx rears.....I believe the fronts are doing 90% of the stopping. I rears don't even get a chance to lock up when applying the brakes. I believe it was probably a 3/4 pedal effort for the fronts to lock. 1 Tuff Z went through something similar with have MM 13 inch rotors upfront and 240sx rears. In the long run he had to get LARGER rear brakes.

  6. Harness has been ordered and is about 4 weeks out from getting here. Tank is done with ATL drop in fuel cell, have to get it shipped to me.

     

    Fig I would give a small update. I am still looking for a FAST intake and fuel rails. These things sell fast (no pun) intended, lol. Trying to score one when people upgrade to the giant 102mm intake.

  7. Sorry to hijack the thread but how in the world did you spend 40k?! If you dont want to post it send me a pm. I'm really curious as I'm building an LS1/T56 240z with all the works and I'm not calculating the final cost even near that number unless you're replacing EVERYTHING with new or NOS parts and doing a COMPLETE rotisserie build even then idk because you said you are doing the work yourself. Just curious

     

     

    I know Craig and I am sure his numbers are correct. His car will be a lot nicer than mine and I know I have near $30k in mine. O you just wait until you have to keep by parts and while I am at it starts.....hijack over :P

  8. I like the idea of placing the steering shaft through the header to get it to be equal length. As it looks right now, it is sitting to close to the coupler. With engine movement and an engine mount going bad (pasn side rubber gm part), I would like a little more room for error. I do realize in installing it the way suggested may cause one small issue. When removing the trans, the headers will have to be removed - meaning the driver side header may need to be taken out completely which may mean you need to undo the steering shaft...something to think about. Or we might be able to unbolt the header and slide it around to remove the trans.

     

    As for the flange location, I was running a 3'' inch SS exhaust on my car that was very well made and tucked under the car. I still managed to scrap the exhaust on speed bumps, pulling into slightly steep driveways and such. Something else to keep in mind. We don't want to be tearing up brand new SS headers :D

  9. Too much rear brake. That is how my car felt before I put the prop valve in. Scary thing is that I got use to that feeling for almost 2 years but def isn't the way to be driving the car. Hopefully this year when I have the Z back together and back on the track I can play with different setups. Also I am running a slightly harder pad on my front brakes.

     

    As far as rear toe, maybe look at TTT rear control arms. I can let you know what my alignment settings are.

     

     

    Questions for the true racers: if you are running much wider tires, you wouldn't need as much front and rear toe as someone running wheels lets say 3-4 inches smaller?

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