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EvilC

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Posts posted by EvilC

    Newbie L30ET Build

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    CB, The head is no good also. Melted chamber and valves in cylinder 5.

     

    Not my motor but I did the diag.

     

    Joe

     

     

    Ha, I did forget about the damage to the head. Phil says he has a head I can have so I will have him ship it out to me.

    Picked up an early 260Z

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    To avoid double posting for those who care :P here is the turbo build thread for this car: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/71489-newbie-l30et-build/page__pid__963945__st__120#entry963945

     

     

    So anyway, so we picked up some adjustable struts and lowering springs for the car. We will wait until the Spring to install these parts. I am looking for another 240z parts car so I can powdercoat the suspension parts and have them all ready to go for the car. The 260 will be getting a CLSD from a 87 300zxt I have had sitting for over a year. I will also keep my eyes open for a Wilwood brake upgrade for sale here on HBZ.

     

    Lots of plans, now to get rid of all these extra parts to buy parts for this car. B)

    Newbie L30ET Build

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Def thought the GT42 was too big. It maybe something I have to buy and resell because I am sure it will come part of the package. I remember Phil going back and forth because of a surge issue. I believe he is still now running the .82 trim but plans to go back to the .63 I have to pull the info from his thread and post it here. I may just run the .82 for now to cut down on cost.

     

    I know the feeling about saying in a few months it will be running. :rolleyes: At least I have your thread to read and goals to set. :D

    Newbie L30ET Build

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Winter is coming and time to start making a list of haves and have nots.

     

    So what is the plan. The plan is to get the L30 swapped in and running on the MS without an IC setup. The stock 4 speed will remain in the car along with the r180. The engine will need a break in period so there will be no boosting of the engine at all.

     

    So what do I have:

     

    Short block complete

    1mm metal HG

    MS wiring harness ready for plug n play

    Most of the EDIS parts

    GT35R Turbo

     

     

    What do I need:

     

    P90 Head

    New oil pump

    New water pump (would like to find L24D pump)

    Fuel rail with injectors

    Intake manni

    exhaust manni

    75-76 tank

    240sx tb and spacer

    Spark plugs n wires

    FPR

    Steering rack bushings

    Engine mounts?

    Time

    $

     

    So, I did a v8 swap last year from a local Z guy would have a turbo setup in his car. In just talking a few days ago I realize he still has all of his parts minus the block because it was damaged. We will see if we can work out a deal where I grab his p90 head, fuel rail with injectors and FPR attached, possibly turbo and a nice ss downpipe, exhaust manni with flange already welded to it. As far as his intake manni we shall see. I believe he has a Garret gt42 turbo installed on his setup. So I will be heading back to the flow charts and see if this would be ideal for my setup. I still have to go back and look at the .63 vs .82 A/R talk with the gt35r turbo I have.

     

    If I can pick up a few of these items before the snow gets here, I will try assemble the engine. If not, first thing in the Spring she will be going into the 260.

    Foaming the rocker panels

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    I agree with Will. Sometimes I think the tone in which people answer questions here isn't right. Not saying people shouldn't have thick skin but to make people feel like they have stupid ideas because they are thinking outside of "their box" doesn't say much for us as a group.

     

    I have an engineering degree - does it mean I know it all? Not at all. But my brain works when I ask questions and try to reason out my ideas. There are two people here for sure can tell you that I always ask questions, they tell me the answer (some times the answer is no it won't work) and I go an try it anyway to see for myself. We should all be doing that, seek knowledge even if we know the outcome.

     

    I honestly believe HBZ is another channel where the older generation passes on knowledge to the younger guys. Understand everyone has an opinion and I believe everyone wants to learn.

     

     

    So enough of the "everyone play nice" talk......we need facts! :P

    Foaming the rocker panels

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted · Edited by EvilC

    Hmmm-

     

    I am trying understand facts vs what people think is stupid idea or a waste of time.

     

    We can all agree that the rockers are the strongest part of the car regarding the s30. Where I don't agree is the foaming of the rockers being a stupid idea because it won't do anything. It may be a bad idea because of rusting issues or getting it installed properly or the strength you gain doesn't out weigh the weight gain. Saying it adds no strength is completely wrong.

     

    Here is something for everyone to read - again take it with a grain of salt. I would like to see us here at HBZ start going out and doing these experiments. Even if we can't get true numbers, a visual test goes a lot further than an opinion. Lets get a s30 parts car, fill it with foam and start to cut it up.

     

    This is a writeup from Sport Compact Car magazine June 2000 where they added it to their project Nissan Z.

     

    Foam-Filling the Chassis

    In any high-performance car, it is impossible to make the chassis too stiff. The stiffer the chassis, the higher its natural frequency, making the energy imparted to it by bumps less likely to excite the body's structure. A stiffer chassis enables the use of stiffer springs and shocks without hurting the ride. This is because a stiff, non-flexing chassis transfers more force into the suspension where it can be dissipated by the springs and shocks instead of transferring the force to the occupants. A stiff chassis is also more responsive to roll rate tuning for balancing understeer and oversteer. This is one of the reasons why automotive engineers are continually investigating ways to stiffen chassis without adding weight.

     

    In a final bit of reengineering to stiffen the body, we injected the chassis with catalyzed rigid structural polyurethane foam. Structural foam, in the 2 lb per cubic foot density that we used, can stiffen chassis members up to 40 percent.

     

    Higher densities of foam can increase stiffness by up to 300 percent. Since we cannot retool custom parts to redo the Z's body, we figured that this would be an excellent, low-cost way of greatly increasing chassis stiffness. Injecting foam is not a new technique for chassis stiffening. The Infiniti Q45 uses this sort of foam in some of its chassis members to increase stiffness, as do a few other premium cars. In fact, the foam we chose is the foam recommended to repair damaged Q45s.

     

    To get the correct foam for our project, we contacted Art Goldman, Foamseal's automotive product manager and author of an SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) paper on the use of structural foam for the stiffening of automotive unibody structures. We used Foamseal's two-component foam kit, p/n 11-22 to fill the main members of the chassis. Like we mentioned earlier, Foamseal is the supplier that I-CAR, a national certification group for quality auto repair, recommends for the repair of damaged, foam-filled chassis. The Foamseal kit uses a two-part catalyzed polyurethane foam, which quickly cures into rigid, waterproof, closed-cell foam. To prep the car, we carefully masked off all painted areas anywhere where the foam could drip. As this sort of foam is a thermosetting catalyzed plastic, we realized it could be icky if it spilled on paint or any part of the car's interior. This foam is nasty stuff. It is impervious to all known solvents and cleaners.

     

    Rubber gloves must be worn. Get some of it on your hands and it will stay there for more than 3 weeks--don't ask how we know. Do not get this stuff on your paint. Wear old clothes; we ruined ours while learning how to handle the product. We injected the foam into the rocker panels and frame rails of Project Z through existing bolt and drain holes. When injected, the foam reacts like shaving cream and quickly expands to fill the empty space. You can judge how much foam to add by watching its expansion progress through some of the holes. Once injected, the foam expands and begins to cure in about a minute so you need to work fast and plan how you inject the foam before you start.

     

    The life of the foam kit is limited to a few hours once the seal is broken. We filled all of the Z's unibody frame members using five foam kits. When foaming a chassis, you must remember the wires and other lines that pass through the chassis must be relocated or they will be entombed forever.

     

    We were amazed at how this simple procedure improved the performance of the car. The chassis now almost feels like it has a roll cage. A sloped driveway can be driven up sideways with nary a creak. Even though the Z already has a pretty tight chassis, it feels more solid. The ride has improved and road noise has been reduced noticeably. We bet that the car will be even more responsive to chassis tuning measures in the future. If you are a slalom racer, a road racer, have a lowered car or even just want a smoother ride; foaming is a worthy, easy-to-do modification. Foamseal has foams in densities as high as 10 lbs per square foot if you desire to make things even stiffer.

     

    Do not--I repeat--do not attempt to use cheap, hardware-store canned foam. This is not the same thing, and if injected into your chassis, will form a gummy mass that won't dry. Foamseal foam is a professional grade foam, which although it is a little unforgiving to cleanup mistakes, has superior mechanical properties and catalytic curing so it will dry even in an enclosed space.

    Advice/Suggestions on places to live on the East Coast?

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    David family will be in the future so of course we would look at the school systems where we look. Also I am aware that a good school system helps resell a house quick. Like Mike said, motorsports is very important!

     

    Just a quick search on zillow.com makes me laugh at how us young people get suckered into staying in the tri-state! Don't get me wrong, my family is here and everything I need is here. I have been here for 27 years and have connections to get almost anything I need. My dad has been a mechanic here for 30+ years so my list of connections really never end. You pay the price to have everything at your finger tips and I understand why but how much of do it do I need? In the end, the only thing I would miss about NYC are my family and close Z friends.....well maybe the pizza. :D

     

     

    The more I talk about it, it seems like the right thing to do.....leave.

     

    I swore I would never be house "poor" and if I wanted to be "rich" I would work for myself. I can do without being "rich" but can't be house "poor".

    Advice/Suggestions on places to live on the East Coast?

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Commute - I hate traffic! Don't mind a driving to work like most people have to do but sitting in traffic is the worst.

     

    Went looking at a place yesterday in northern Jersey. Built in the 50s, .24 acre, 3 small bedrooms...blah blah blah...needs updating. $330k asking price with taxes $8200......needless to say the gf wasn't thrilled. Me, I am thinking that isn't too bad. Cost of living in the tri-state area. Taxes would only increase as improvements are made of course. Hmmmmm.....

     

    Looks like we will be giving first thought to the Raleigh/Durham area in NC if this move is to happen out of the area. Now to look up all the road courses around there, lol.

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