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EvilC

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Posts posted by EvilC

    Show Off Your Engine Bay! Pics Wanted, L-series

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Leon thanks!

     

    Rob very clean setup there! Question - does you intake box become oily with the valve cover breathing into it? I have to some up with a system for mine, along with the block vent because I am getting oil in the engine bay! At higher revs I can see it misting out the two vents even with the small filters on them.

    Toyota Truck Calipers, Ventilated Brake Rotors, MM rear Disc Brakes

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Nice read, I remember having this discussion a few yrs back with someone I know. One thing to keep in mind too is why the vented rotors work "better" in real world driving if used at the track, they have better capabilities to dissipate the heat.

     

     

    I had a small laugh to myself with the earlier mention of big brake kits being sold for newer cars because it is true. Factory bias is normally not changed and how often do you see aftermarket prop values thrown into newer factor cars that have plug N play kits.

     

     

    To make sense out of non-sense let us take Arizona Z car brake options into play. Keep tire compound and pad compound the same here is how it plays out.

     

     

    The 12.2 inch rotor/4 piston setup technically would have nearly the same clamping force of the 13 inch rotor/ 6 piston setup based on the piston sizes from the part numbers that were supplied years ago and sorry for a half a$$ effort to find the exact numbers. So if clamping force is nearly the same, the only advantage is the rotor size. In theory and depending on the bias desired, the 4 piston calipers should be used on a 13 inch rotor. Only the mounting bracket needs to be changed.

     

     

    Stopping distance vs pedal effot vs pedal travel – can be confusing when trying to dial in brake setups.

     

    Valve to Piston clearance issue?

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted · Edited by EvilC

    zfan1 - nope I didn't know thanks for the input. So I should check the contact patch and should have 0.060 to 0.080? I think I see why this measurement will help me answer my question but also weather the contact area is towards the intake or exhaust side will tell me if the pushrod length is correct? The video I watched talked about shimming and milling the pedestals so I am trying to follow their theory. Checking the preload would also help determine is the pushrod is the incorrect length? 

     

    Just watch this video 

     

    Valve to Piston clearance issue?

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted

    I figured I would post here before I went posting on LS1TECH and keep this thread updated once I come up with an answer.

     

     

    So my "new" setup:

     

    5.3 Patriot heads stage 2 - bought used no specs

    1.8 Terra Yella rockers

    stock GM 2002 LS1 head gasket

    Cam Specs: 228/232 111 .632/.600

     

     

     

    So tonight I put clay on the first piston and bolted down one head onto the block and turned the engine over by hand to see how close I was getting to the piston. The clay was squashed but not broken through. It did look very close though so then I put red grease on the intake and exhaust valves and tried it again with no clay in place. There was no grease left behind by either valve on the piston. The 1.8 rockers are really my concern and I am thinking I would be safe with 1.7s. I am thinking with so much lift from the cam, once the rods stretch and higher rpms come into play, I may have an issue.

     

    Tomorrow I plan to search around on the LS1 site to find the specs on a stock 5.3 head so I can know for sure if these heads have been shaved or not. Knowing that, HG thickness, cam specs and rocker specs - I should be able to mathematically see where I am and if I have any buffer room.

    Mike Kelly's Zcar Project

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    LSx mounts can be bought for $600, Mike already has the efi system ready to go - the real cost is a pull out which can really range from $2k-$10k crashed car vs brand new crate. The engine and trans takes a weekend to install and get running. Rags and I have set our personal best record time swapping one in last yr - started on a Friday night pulling a dead L28ET/Z32 trans out and had the LS1/t56 installed and fired up open header by Sunday night. 

     

    Time vs Money vs Happiness

     

    I agree with you guys saying that the 383 could be ran with no issues and so on but we are talking about this engine itself and all the time lost working/fixing it and money spent towing the car around which should be time spent racing. Either way I am sure Mike will get it figured out, just don't sell the car!

    Mike Kelly's Zcar Project

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    Btw, show me 2 Hybridz guys who have had their LSx swapped cars break on them. My opinion is my opinion and doesn't count for a damn thing but personally 5 LS1 swapped S30 cars I have been around since 2007 and none have had issues and we are talking about cars that do see track time.

     

    If the machine shop made a mistake and it won't cost you anything to fix then of course fix it..........if it will cost you money out of your pocket again, I would really have to think about it.

    Mike Kelly's Zcar Project

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    There is NOTHING wrong about having a 383 SBC stroker! Displacement for displacement the SBC will be equal in HP and TQ to the LSx.  If the machine shop assembled the lower end, then they did something WRONG.  Do a leak down test.  NOT a compression test. With a leak down test it can be determined if it is truly piston rings or something else.  Disassemble the thing yourself after locating the leak to see if they busted a ring at installation or did something else wrong.  If they busted a ring or rings and the cylinders are not scored and still have the honing cross-hatch new rings and maybe a piston or two can be installed after checking weights of pistons coming out against what is going in.  Use that powder from Total Seal to assist new ring seating.  Only one way to make certain that is done right and that is to do it yourself.

     

    You have just proven my point. It has nothing to do with LSx vs 383, it is about time and money. Why keep throwing money and time at an engine that has not worked for how man years now? Not throwing shots at Mike here but why not buy something turn key from factory that will be just as good as the "built" 383. You are talking about numbers, and I am saying dollar for dollar the two just don't compare in the long haul.

     

    Say it with me......turn key! =)

    Mike Kelly's Zcar Project

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    I will just state again what has been stated before ditch the 383 and buy ANY LS series. The money spent will be forgotten in about one 3 day DE. The feelng of missing so many track days just isn't worth it and honestly the money lost has to pay for a LS by now. We need longer vids!

     

    Take a few days and think about it, unless there is any issue that the machine shop will be picking up the cost and labor I wouldn't sink anymore into this setup. Sometimes trying to get ever ounce of HP and track setup makes us miss the main goal - driving.

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