EvilC
-
Posts
1755 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
7
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by EvilC
-
-
Where are the used MP1900? LMAO
-
Drove the supercharged LS2 240z that is local to me owned by another member here......WOW =)
Traction only an issue if you smash the gas pedal but the car is easily driven like a normal car and will pull from high gears with ease. I would love to see how she drives at a HPDE.
Rags, place the order yet?
-
Haajehaa -
if your wheels are the same width all the way around and same -10 offset, how are the lips different sizes? With the same width and offset, the back spacing should be the same all the way around.
-
HaaJeHaa - is that all around? Pics of the car please? =)
-
Time to close this one....................................
-
We need Dave to update this thread and share some of this LS2 Z !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
-
0 offset John?
-
I hear you guys, I have to take a look at the wheels, I know back spacing changes with the width of the rim and mine would be different on both wheels if the width is the different with the same offset but some reason in my head, I thought the hub face on the wheels were different thickness.
Will report back......thanks guys!
-
Ok you wheel experts here is what I have:
Fronts: 17x9.5 with -13 offset 4.7" backspace.
Rears: 17x11 with -13 offset 5.5" back space.I want to re-barrel the wheels so I can have them fit under stock body lines. I know the easiest way is to sell what I have and buy new but I think I can save a few dollars doing it the other way. Plus I can sell the wider sections to someone here who wants to run big flares. Right now this setup currently work with the wider ZG flares I use to run on my 71 240z. I know I can get away with 17x8 or 17x 8.5 0 offset under stock lines. I am runninf coilovers on the new 74 260z so I am trying to figure should I measure the thickness of the mounting surface that would mate up with the wheel hub and calculate how wide I can go from there. What is "normal" backspacing on a 8 inch wheel with 0 offset?
I was using this calculator here:
http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp
-
TimZ - Office Space of course!
-
I see what you mean. That is why I said depends on how much camber you are running and ride height. I ran mine for some time without the stops just to see if the axles will fail and they didn't. This wasn't at the track which was the only place I was getting the banging sound you are talking about. Another member here was having your same issue and welded up stops in the cage itself and seems to still be working ok. With your setup I am curious of how that would look once the axles starts to move at an angle relative to the valve spring. Hey this is HBZ try it out and report back! =)
-
I think that may cause you to tear your boots up once it fails. The axles stops need to be cut down to the depth you are getting the axle to cause that wear you see. Basically the axle doesn't stay perpendicular to the stop during the suspension travel and causes what you see. I had the same on my setup. I think if you are not running an extreme camber you can get away with cutting down both stops on each axle. I know it is a floating design but if this is done correctly, you would get rid of that banging sound you here during driving and stop metal from mixing with the grease in the boots.
-
Join NYZCC.COM
What it is the budget, pm me? I may know of a car.
-
Kiwi303 - the cars are def not stripped! Look at the for sale of some of the cars here on Hybridz and look at the for sale ad on RA. I don't care that they are buying and reselling but I find it funny how people are trying to say that it is ok to "claim builds".
So you think they buy a car for $35k, spend money shipping to Ja, then strip the car and repaint and rebuild all $10000 maybe? I see a primer Z with no interior with a LQ4 auto swap that was here on HBZ also. I am sure they stripped it, fixed all rust and primered the car again with all the broken interior parts and sell it for $50k.
Hahahaha
-
lostfairlady - if you think the thread is a waste of time then don't post in it. I never said there was an issue with buying and selling cars. The issue was with claiming to have built something you never touched. If you think that is ok then so be it, tells me I wouldn't buy anything from you
As far as Tony D - I don't get you posts? Again who cares if the car was sold for mid 30's and asking price is 3times what it sold for. No one should or could fight that issue because this is a free-market BUT culture translation lost means you can claim to build cars that you didn't build? Like you said you know how it works there and they are providing a "service" to high end clients. If you are going to be a broker be a broker, if you are going to resto cars then resto car, if you want to do both then state with truth which one is one.
At the end of the day I said there is nothing we can do about it besides discuss it.....................=)
-
I would never!
Maybe a white car could go to Japan. Rocky we can build you some cars here out of NY.
-
mattd428 not sure if you are talking to me but I am trying to keep the swap "cost" within scope here. If someone says they spend $8k on their swap but bought a fast 92 intake and tb for $1500 to me that isn't part of the cost of the swap. People here say they have $10k into their swap when they really have $10k into their project - that is all I am trying to say.
Cost is how much work you are willing to put in and how much bargin hunting you will do. Big differnce in "cost" when you start off with a pull out for $4k and a complete car for $4k.
-
And to answer the original post - I scored my last three complete F body cars under $3000 and the last one being a 2002 Camaro. Is the LS2 "better" than the LS1 yes but does it justify the mark up in cost for pull outs......no. Plenty of LS1 cars here still running around with lots of track miles on them and been running now over 7 years. If you are on a budget just stick to the ls1 or a 5.3 which I have complete that I got for $250. Don't get caught up in all the hype.....and LSx based engine will be tons of fun to drive over stock. The trick is to plan you attack and stick with it within budget.
-
Yes I know that and I wouldn't post unless I myself knew the history of your car too. Just because a shop charges $x to do something doesn't make it the standard to get the work done. Again I am not knocking David because I know he was very busy when he started that swap back in 05/06 but when someone is asking what something cost to do please state the fact that a shop did some of the work you are quoting.
For fun I asked a local shop here how much would it be to just mount the LS1/t56 in my car and I finish the rest - they said $4600 @ $110/hr = 41 hours! Anyone who has done the basic swap can tell you that is crazy!
-
Very interesting.
-
Plata - you are giving out info that just isn't right. You didn't build your car and the bill you are quoting to be honest is a shop rate to do the work. I am no trying to be a ball buster but state facts and not opinion based on the money spent building your car. The q45 dif swap is no where near $2700 - pick n pull diff and 4 axles - MMS or AZCAR or TTT mounts and custom axles/adapters can be done for $1200 or even $1500. Depends on how much work you want to put into getting the swap done on a budget. I didn't like the Q45 setup so i ditched it.
Today the swap can be done for much less if you are keeping it simple - exactly what that means a stock engine any combo, higher miles, stock harness and JCi mounts.
It just depends on what you want your car to look like and perform......ask me how I know.....about to build my 3rd LS1 Z car.
-
Really Plata?
-
Firewall def isn't cut on Austin's car. Looking at this http://sites.google.com/a/vq240z.com/www/frontsubframe - the engine needs to sit lower for sure and double check the crossmember, looks like more material needs to be removed.
-
Took a look at it today, we can try to loosen the nut on the top portion of the engine mount along with the bottom one and see if we can get the engine to drop a tad more. It does look doable but not sure it will be enough to clear the hood though.
Is there anyone running a roots/twin screw style s/c?
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
Dan you are right, track control needed is your right foot. I love the on demand tq and I wasn't surprised by it like a turbo car.