Kevin Shasteen

I've got the factory 4spd now w/my Inliner & its a PITB; I'm at mid 3500rpm's when I hit 70mph. In the mid summer-the floor boards get pretty hot from the exhaust; I can only imagine how much hotter a V8's exhaust will be. If you got the $$'s then make the swap to a 5spd or 6spd now-you wont regret it. If money is short then put the 4spd in w/the expectation of going to an overdrive later. If money is short-then just get the car running & make the upgrades as the budget allows. I'm one to talk-havent done my swap yet due to the lack of funds; I'm still holding out for a 6spd before I begin my swap. I've had projects in the past where I conceded & took short cuts....not this time/I want cruise to actually mean "CRUISE" when I'm in overdrive-that is why I'm holding out for a 6spd. Like David said-it depends on the intention of the project; if the dragstrip is where the car will see the majority of driving-then go w/the 4spd; but, if you plan on Hwy driving at all...you will want an overdrive! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Well, I'm not edumacated on the turbo scene yet so I'm not sure exactly how they differ, but, I'll ask anyway: have you considered the cylinder head in your attempt at finding more power? I forwarded some new found knowledge I discovered after reading Vizards book on modifying SBC cyl's heads. I know SBC cyl.heads are not the issue here; but the post had to do w/airflow w/in a port...any port of a cyl.head. Therefore, the principle is based on "Physics" & not the engine being a V8, Inline or anything else...just airflow! It was rather lengthy but well worth reading. To make a long story short-it dealt w/determining what factors limited a cyl.head's ability to flow: "These factors" are what determine your engine's powerband. Once you've reached the limit of these factors-your engine's powerband falls. In retrospect; if you know what the limiting factors are-then you can manipulate said factors in an attempt to minimize the "limiting" which should result in more power...or more rpm's/whatever your needs are. If you are interested (I was excited when I finally understood what he was talking about) then you can find the thread in the Miscellaneous Forum under the title "Cyl.Head Airflow (another light bulb comes on). I just re-read it again; Vizard & his books always amaze me/the guy is a performance engine guru! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

David, Do you know what the Intake Closing of your camshaft choice is? The actuall Seat-to-Seat not the @ .050 listing (Remember the Slider Crank Mech Thread a few months ago); if you didnt read it-go to the Misc.Tech forum & find it-should be under the heading of "Octane/Camshaft Selection" (I believe that's the forum its in) &. Anyway; I just completed the mapping of the SBC w/5.703 rods & 3.48 stroke; this will tell me what actual comp.ratio you need to run w/the cam you've chosen...just need the Intake's Seat-to-Seat closing rate from you: If it's an aftermarket cam call their tech line & ask them-then report back here, or if you still have the cam card-look on it/the Seat to Seat ratings should be listed there. Also, what do your piston tops look like (have you pulled the heads yet); are they flat tops, D-shape dished tops, two eye brow reliefs or 4 eye brow reliefs? Your piston tops & the head gasket you choose will determine what the final comp.ratio those 64cc heads put out. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ May 22, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

Sorry Owen...cant help you; I can only sympathize w/you! I hate wiring problems! Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

David, Sorry to hear you're engine is experiencing the "HP Growing Pains" syndrome. Just some things to think about if you havent already considered them: 1) How do you know you're gonna obtain 10:1 comp.ratio(?)...which pistons currently reside w/in your cyl's? 2) Do you know what head gasket "compressed" thickness is required for your projected 10:1 compression? 3) Has your block been deck milled prior to your ownership; what is the piston top to block deck clearance? If your 10:1 comp.ratio is a hopeful 10:1 & the questions posed above are not known-you may find those 64cc heads putting out more than your 10:1 projected compression ratio. Hope you get your car running again: that's really a bummer-specially now that summer is here/good luck! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I've used the studio before-but have not compared it too anything-more or less just checking it out. If you'ld like; give me your car's spec's & I'll check my math & obtain what your car's mph & rpm's should be. I need to know: 1) Year of Car 2) Trans (factory trans for your year?) 3) Rear Gear Ratio 4) Tire Size (what does the sidewall read) Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I'm sure there's a "fobia" labeling those of us (myself included) that feel their hood release cable is going to break as the most inoportune time! It happened to me once on a 73 Cutlass I had a 455 in. I had to break the bottom horizontal piece of the grille to obtain access to the hood latch bolts; once those were removed the hood popped up. You didnt notice the broken grille unless you knew it was there....& yes since I broke it I knew it was there/talk about an eye sore! As far as hood pins...I've thought about it; havent really gone any furhter than thinking about it. Next time you find a 70-71 Olds 442 w/the W-45 Ram Air Hood...ask the owner to show you their hood pins & mounts as their pins are recessed into the hood & are reversed-in other words the point of the pin goes down into the bracket mount instead of the pin popping out above the hood...it creates a flush appearance. Year One sells the entire assembly in their Olds Catalogue-might give them a call for current prices. Still you have the worry of someone breaking into your car at night. What if you relocated your latch & used the pins....the pins would keep the hood in place & the relocated latch would keep the hood closed to those who dont need to be opening it(?). Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I agree w/Richard about the metal material issues. I had the high side trans cooler line split (metal lines) & oil was spewing everywhere. I checked w/a local trans shop about duplicating a new line...they advised me to just use the brass comp.fittings. Used them on the cooler line & have never had another problem since-checked the fittings for leaking many times & have never so much as found a drop. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

New GM 4.2 DOHC/6; sounds like the engine Dellorian (speeling?) would have prefer'd for the Trans/Am back in 69 when it deguted. If you'll remember-he originally wanted a performance version of the OHC/6 to be the the T/A engine..GM said no & Pontiac went w/the 400ci. Of course there's no comparison to the Pontiac OHC/6 of yesteryear -vs- this new DOHC/6...but its the exotic-ness of the times that offers comparisons, if anything at all. W/two xtra valves per cylinder-this engine is a huge potential for power...rodders & the aftermarket will probably jump on it. Just the fact that it's chain driven I think shows GM's intention for longevity & power; whereas now days it seems like every Mfg is using a belt drive on their DOHC's; who knows(?). Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ May 17, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

Ross, Apologize for the late response-I've been preoccupied this week.....Alright, so that I'm reading from the same page here; your intention is not to alter the intake's chambers but to merely smooth them down. In doing so-you're wanting to obtain cooler air temp's of the incoming air; Yes/No? So, it's air temp you're wanting to alter & not the speed/lack of speed of the airflow w/in the chamber's; Yes/No? BTW: my use of the word "Spacer Plate" was possibly an incorrect choice of words. I probably should've chosen "Insulator Plate" instead being fabricated b/t the TB & manifold. I also have Vizards book on modifying intake manifolds. He mentions where he has had success in blocking off the Exhaust Heat Risers & claims the engine still has sufficient heat to reach operating temp's; barring ambient temps reaching freezing & high humidity that an intake doesnt really need a heated cross over passage: reaching operating temp will obviously take a little longer as a result. Vizard has also welded steel plates to the bottom of his manifolds (alluminum manifolds) to deter the heat transfer from the hot oil. Just for posterity's sake here; why would you go to all this trouble to "Smooth" the intake chambers & not make any attempt at porting them? Would not one improving the airflow compliment the addt'l lowering of air temp & further improve "Density" & the "Ram-Air" effect of air entering the combustion chamber-would this not result in more power: Just Curious? Hope I helped you this time & not frustrated you! I hope you know I'm not on this board to frustrate anyone; no one enjoys the "bench racing" more than myself & I always look forward to discussing the dynamics of a performance process. Joe Mondello offers a porting kit for Cast Iron & Alluminum. His Catalogue#:PK 230 or 235. The first kit includes multiple carbide burrs w/upto 4" shanks. @ 100 abrasive rolls; 6 various shaped cutting stones. The second kit is for alluminum & uses carbide burrs w/8 flutes for faster cutting & less loading up; lubricant is also added. PK230 = $129.00 PK235 = $135.00 These prices were taken from my 1997 catalogue so prices may have varried slightly. Mondello's ph# 1800.237.8808. You might also check a PAW book; their kits are broken down to smaller kits & price reflects this. Their kits range from $20-$40 & dont include all the shanks & carbide cutters that the Mondello kits offered: PAW's number 1800.678.3000. Eastwood's site is WWW>Eastwood.Com; their kits range from $5 to $35 & refer's to the rolls & not carbide cutters. Aside from not having the carbide cutters advertised-I like Eastwoods breakdown of their kits better than PAW's or Mondello's. Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner) [ May 13, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

Mike, Not I; maybe some of the more internet savvy members may have knowledge about a site w/airflow #'s but I dont. Kevin, (Yea, Still an Inliner)

Lone, Remind me to hide all the chapstick when you come visiting. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

A mild Street Porting of a cyl.head can easily cost $300; so porting/Extrude Honing an Intake for $200 is pretty cheap! I think Ross's (correct me if I'm wrong) approach was intended for cooling the temp's down....has anyone ever read/heard any documentation of the effects on engine temp as a result of Extrude Honing the intake? Wouldnt the underhood intakes temps be countered better if the air was routed/vented out someway; as Ross stated earlier a spacer plate between the TB Intake as well as one under the intake (like an Olds Valley Pan) seperating the hot oil from the bottom of the intake will help lower intake manifold temp's. Aren't the actual (Operating Temp's) going to maintain basically the same temp once it reaches operating temp. If the radiated air is not routed away from the engine bay-it will basically create a "Heat Sink" which only gets worse unless routed out of the engine bay area? Correct/yes-no? Just throwing ideas out here! As I see it; the porting aids airflow and wont really aid lowering temp's; while the spacer plates will aid the lowering of the temp's of the intake. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Paul, Scottie's correct about joining the Buick GN sites & clubs. First thing I'ld like to say is that you dont have a typical GN; your has T-Tops. That alone seperates your GN from the rest of the crowd & then multiply that factor w/the fact that yours is low mileage & in mint condition! Unless I'm mistaken-I dont think all GN's came w/T-Tops; did they? My 1998 "Standard Guide to CARS & PRICES" has collector cars listed on a scale from 1-5; with 1 being mint (original & never driven/stored in an atmospheric controlled "Museum" environment) and 2 being a "mint" condition driven car w/low miles on it or a ground up restoration. This book lists your 87 GN at $14,000 at the #2 column; and doesnt have an add-on for T-Tops; but I'ld bet the price has appreciated w/in those few years & the T-Top factor should add value as well. I'ld get a professional auto appraiser/collector to give you an appraisal on your car; for insurance purposes & so in years to come you can show your appraisal to any prospective buyers if/when you ever decide to sell. Congrats on your purchase & welcome to the site. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ May 09, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

quote: Originally posted by Mike kZ: ...shouldn't that be a 400 block though? His bore x stroke; 4.030 x 3.750 is the description of a 350 bored .030 & his crank's stroke is the crank of a 400. 4.030^2 x 3.750 x .7854 x 8 = 382.66ci Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Yea, I was previously thinking "Cross Sectionally"; its amazing-We all speak English & yet the words chosen between us continues to be misunderstood. Its obvious now that you are not planning on removing 25% of the thickness; but (just to be anal retentive here) any removal of metal will increase the cross sectional volume of the port....even if it is only 1-2mm here & there/you've still increased the cross sectional port volume (this is the principle of porting); maiking the turns w/in the ports more efficient. Extrude Honing only uses a less abrasive material than a grinding stone-therefore you obtain that "Polished" appearance...but you are still removing metal & that increases the ports volume & its efficiency to flow air. The rules of porting (whatever you want to call it) remain the same....for an intake, cyl.heads or a carb. Anything that has air flowing thru it works on the same metaphore Vizard described in his book w/the air bing a car approaching the turn. It's this principle that effects an engine's powerband; even if you only port/polish in strategic areas-you are effecting the port volume (increasing airflow/decreasing airflow) and its ability to navigate the turns w/in the ports in a specific location; its this process that determines an engine's efficiency at any one RPM. I Appreciate your clearification; when/are you going to do this or were you kinda of just throwing the subject out there for responses & ideas? Let us know how it works if you decicde to do this. I've only read about this process & never actually knew anyone that did it; BLKMGK is the only one I'ver ever ran into that has done this, & now you're comptemplating the polishing the intake. Do you have any documentation on this process making an engine run cooler? I've read Dyno runs after an intake has been Extrude Honed and they only comment on its 5-10 HP gain & never mentioned the temp's being cooler/hotter(?). Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ May 09, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

Your right Scottie-thanks for catching that. I was pretty tired last night @ 13:30am....I got the mileage correct but messed up on the "ET" which I came up w/9.19 ET if using 660hp as RWHP; assuming a 100% VE. Just maiking sure you all are paying attention (haha). That's what I like about this forum; if someone makes a mistake-surely someone else will call him on it and the mistake gets corrected real fast like. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ May 09, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

I'ld have to agree about the engine being too much for a daily driver; maybe a weekend warrior-but now a daily driver. With that many ponies-things are wound pretty tight on the inside. Even if you dont get on it that much-things are bound to break; probably sooner than later. If he is putting that much hp out then he either did all the work himself (which means he owns a machine shop) as to achieve that lever involves an incredible amount of machine work; blueprinting & porting. A race port to the heads could easily kill $600 alone. Is that only his asking price or is he claiming that is all he has in the engine? That is a steal for anyone wanting a killer engine: if the numbers are correct. BTW: 660hp in a 2600lbs Z should net an 11.56 ET at 148mph; providing you could obtain any kind of respectable traction. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

quote: Originally posted by Ross C: [QB]...It wouldn't take a lot of work to reduce the surface area by 25% or so] Ross, I'm not offended as I am very thick skinned and would certainly never get miffed over something as small as semantics; I'm just trying to understand what you're talking about. I wasnt trying to convince you "I'm right/your wrong" as I was merely attempting to understand what your process is, what your intention is & what your final product will be...if I'm unsure of what you're doing by the words you've chosen-then others that read your post may also be confused. The way I see it-as I read your post/the confusion lies in your choice of words; at least for me it does. Your quote above mentions reducing the surface area by 25%. Either your reduction in surface area is referring to the reduction in the thickness of the intake port walls-which means removing metal and therefore decreases port pressure (raises the powerbands peak power); or are you referring to the reduction in CFM that the ports will flow, which refer's to the adding of metal to the port walls which would increase pressure (lowers the powerbands peak power). Since you asked about Extrude Honing I assumed you were referring to the removing of metal...whatever term you want to give it. I'm aware of porting/polishing (the act of removing metal) in the intakes as well as the cyl.heads; I only wanted to caution you about removing too much (25%) & wanted to know if you new how much could be removed(?) if you did know then I'ld like to know what is that amout, & what are their gains? I'm not offended & I certainly hope I didnt offend you either: this is a discussion forum & not romper room-so you dont have to walk on egg shells when responding to anything I ever say. I always look forward to anyone's intelligent response as it is that response that keeps the discussion going till all info is obtained & everyone is smarter as a result of the discussion. It sounded like you had an intelligent idea & I wanted to know the specifics! Talk to me w/details-how much metal/adding-subtracting metal/where is the adding/subtracting of metal taking place from? Are you removing it from the thickness of the walls or are you adding it to the port walls? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ May 09, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

Ross, Porting means many things to many people; however, the process of removing metal is the act of porting-regardless if its from the intake, exhaust or the cyl.heads: porting is porting. So, if I understand you correctly; you're intention for removing metal from your intake isnt directly to gain HP but to thin the walls so that the intake will dissapate heat quicker-therefore internal temps of the intake will remain cooler....thus the final outcome being coller temps will result in more HP (better efficiency). My only concern would be the amount you're thinking about removing; 25%? I've read where typical porting (of the cyl.heads) constitutes less than 5% of the port itself. What would be the after effects of removing 25% of the intake port? Would this thin the walls beyond their ability to resist cracking. Can you even remove this much metal to begin with. What effects on airflow would this have-specifically "pressure". An engine's ability to make power totally depends on pressure as it is pressure that pushes the air thru the ports & into the cylinders. Remember; its pressure that determines an engine's air/fuel ratio as it effects that air's "Density" on the air molecule. I'm just rambling here & throwing out ideas; my thoughts are-a little porting is good but too much is not good as it diminishes airflow because of its effect in a negative sence if one goes too far: AKA-dimishing returns. I'm no expert and would certainly never attempt to talk anyone out of an "idea". If I were you I'ld check w/companies that offer Extrude Honing...surely they keep these numbers (Spec's) in a book somewhere & should be able to answer any of your questions about how much metal can be removed & its effect on air/fuel mixtures in light of atmospheric pressure, even if you are using an EFI set up that is suppose to adjust for changes in atmospheric pressure-there is always a point in theory where you surpass the point of no return. I'ld check w/multiple companies & not limint myself to just one company's response. If you get a collective of responses youre odds are better that the responses will either confirm their answers or will reject each other. Definately interesting concepts; good luck/let us know what you find! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Why is it we cant ever find that "Someone"; I know they are around-we just seem to keep missing them...or maybe we ticked them off in traffic & they just arent talking to us anymore? Thanks for the info; we definately need that "special someone" to document this w/pictures in a step/by step scenario. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Owen, I couldnt get any of the URL's to post; kept getting "No Page Found" errors. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

John, It's gonna be hard for anyone to diagnose such a problem unless they have your parts in front of them. I can attest; your problem you're having gave me some trouble also. I've never had to rpl wiper arms on a Z until earlier this year; wipers were worn out & leaving streaks-even w/new blade inserts. So I bought universal arm assemblies w/their universal clips; there were about 4 different possible clips in each package. I read the "Cheap Asian to English" directions for an hour & still couldnt figure out the crummy instructions. Everytime I installed the assembly like I thought the instructions said-the assemblies would fall off when turning the wipers on. I also decided to drill/tap new holds on my wiper arms to be used w/the screws of my choice. After all is said & done; I fugred out that the univeral kit didnt have the correct size pin for my arms. Whan I went to an Auto Zone that I deal w/& know some of the guys-I told them I needed a longer pin. They reached under their counter-pulled a metal tool box out which had dozens of wiper arm/blades & clips w/different size pins; he told me to take the pins I needed. Once I got these pins everything worked out fine. Check w/a local Auto Zone or Pep Boys for assistance. I've had plenty of auto mechanics & dont consider myself an idiot; but, I'll admit the aftermarker instructions for those universal arms are not the easiest to understand nor are their kits always complete. Once you figure it out-the connection is a strong one & the pins will snap in to the arm/and stay till you remove them! Hope this helps. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I agree about the cost -vs- the bottem line results. Remember; a pro-stock dragster and NASCAR routinely find themselves in the 8000-8500rpm range. Unless your car is gonna be running in that range you'ld probably be better off putting your money in light weight pistons, or in the bottom end; or a no holds barred ignition system of some kind. Nothing wrong w/porting; but make sure you know what you're doing. I'ld strongly suggest reading David Vizard's book on "Building & Modifying the SBC Cylinder Heads". He constantly reminds the reader that an engine builder doesnt have to make ports bigger to obtain more airflow-instead the builder needs to know where to port & even more important-how to port the area you've decided to port. If you want extra HP & aren't going to be in the 8000+ rpm range; you'ld be better off concentrating on light porting & deshrouding the valve's in the combustion chamber; if you find a head porter that knows what they are doing-you can pick up 30-50hp. I have read good things about Extrude Honing; one of them is not how cost efffective it is! But if you are looking for that "Last bit of HP" & have the extra bucks-go for it! What I finnaly learned from Vizards book (after reading it for the 4th time) is he relates the airflow in a port to a race car on a road; as that car approaches the turn-which is best for the car: 1)to approach the turn at full speed 2)or too slow down the car prior to the turn & to approach the turn on the inside of the turn? Vizard claims-the air in the port is doing the exact same thing a driver does when they fail to slow down for that curve; likewise, if you cant slow down the air before it hits the turn w/in the port-the air will actually bang against the opposite port wall-this causes the port to flow air at a slower than needed rate...which turns an engine into a slow poke of an engine not making the desired power one intended. He claims what you want to do is attempt to allow the air to make as straight a turn as possible-to achieve this the porter has to increas the radius of the turn....to understand this you'ld have to see the pictures in his book. I'ld stronly reccomend his book for anyone thinking about porting SBC cyl.heads. At least, by reading the book first, you'ld then have a better feel for what your needs are based on the engine you're wanting to build. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Mike, I dont know anything about the guns; but if you're buying knew & want the bes (cheapest) price...check Arbor Freight and SAMS Wholesale Club-Sam's will usually allways have one of those guns on display as well as cheap spray guns. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)