Kevin Shasteen

Randy, There's more to rear gears than simply "Rear Gears". What engine/trans combo are you currently running & will your eng/trans combo change in the future? Cruising speeds and 1/4 mile times are usually good "Rules of Thumbs" to go by when picking your trans/diff.gears & tire diameter! Oh, yea: dont forget tire diameter! What would you like your rpm's to be at cruising speeds? Usually cruising speed is 60mph; but if your reguarly cruising at 80mph(?)-time for a 6spd(?)! If you go to the first page of HybridZ click on the "Contents" page; then scroll downward almost to the bottom of the page where you'll find the heading "Info" and click on that. Then you should see three more headings-you want to click on "Trans/Rear End Design Studio. This forum allows you to inpt your "trans/diff.gears/tires" or choice and then indicates your rpm'mph. This room allows you to alter your input which changes your rpm's/mph till you find the setup you like! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited April 18, 2001).]

For anyone contemplating that bushing replacement; I too had to machine an edge off each shoulder creating a "small wedge" on each corner of the shoulders. This allowed me to finangle the two pieces together; wasnt the easiest thing to do but it wasnt that difficult once the wedge was there. The wedge & a few smidgens of stretegically placed dab's of grease/it'll take a little bit of force but once they begin slipping on-keep applying the force until it slips on completely. Anyway-that's how I did it. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Pete, I was pretty sure the * meant multiplication; but since I used it earlier as * (Degrees) I wanted to be sure what you intended it to be. Believe it or not-your formula is beginning to sink in-I just need a little more prodding. It appears to me the formula doesnt take that much "Cifering" (as Jethro from Beverly Hillbillies" would say; that is once you've determined the angles of the crank throw -vs- pitson pin angle. Could you mock up a hypothetical equation for me as a viewable sample like I did in my first post w/the formula I got from my book. I'm dying to understand your forumula! What is the "cosine" of an angle? I think I pretty much understand the formula w/exception to not knowing what the "cosine" represents. Just put some "close enough" digits where they belong & take me along each step of the formula/I'ld really appreciate it. I'ld owe you a steak dinner if/when we ever [meat], I mean meet. (haha) For the spreadsheet-dont think you have to do it tonight/dont want to put you out or keep you up late; everyone needs their beauty sleep ya know. BTW-who published that book, what's its copyrite & how much was it when you purchased it-if you dont mind me asking. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited April 16, 2001).]

Cheap is such a harsh politically incorrect term; I prefer efficient! I had a chance to dismantle one of my father's old rusted out International P/Up's (seems like Internatioinal P/Up's is a family tradition) & saved all the wiring, wiring connectors. To this day I'll grab one of those multiple wiring connectors, force out the original wire w/an ice pick and install a new wire creating a positive connection on what ever project I'm working on at the time. Efficient; Buzzard Efficient is what I'ld call it! Making sure not one iota goes to waste! Besides; its the OEM mfg. that usually is trying to keep up w/the hot rodders. The OEM mfg's many times will discover a hot rodder's trick only to later adapt it to their "Next Years Model". Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I'ld stay away from the early 80's 700r4's; there were so many updates on those trans they are more of a mutant trans than the later 80's trans. The ealier Bulletins included anything from front pumps, to valves & their shift solenoids. If you're looking for a 700; look in the cars ranging from 87-91. I believe it was 92 when GM went to the Electronic controlled 700; so stay away from the 92's and forward. I worked for GMPP (General Motors Protection Plan) from the late 80's to 92. Believe me; there were so many complaints on the earlier trans that the dealers couldnt keep up; there must have been at least 30 separate GM Bulletins on the 700r4 alone! Granted the trans should've been corrected-under warranty or by the customer by the time the car has found its way to the salvage yard-but I'ld personally stay away from the earlier years. Just my .02c's worth. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I love the look of the Impalla SS's (the RWD ones that is). I remeber when I worked as an insurance claims adjuster for PDP when those cars came out; there wasnt a week gone by that didnt included at least paying for 2 of those cars. They were always being stolen off of dealers lots-if not the cars their tires/wheels. I wish GM would've kept making those cars. So much room in the pass.compartments, an SBC for dependability & performance; the huge wheels/tires w/great body lines; as usual-GM quits making something that the public cant get enough of! If I could afford one I'ld deffinately have chose one over a Lexus or Infinity any day! IMO-the luxury Lexus/Infinity's arent even in the same class. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited April 16, 2001).]

I was kind of thinking the "Normally Aspirated" factor was an issue when making those mod's...oh well, just trying to get you in the 10's/back to the drawing board I guess. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Dan, Sounds like a fun day; your ride sounds like a good kick in the pants; & trick w/the Jag carbs. Now just show some pictures (of your car that is). Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Scottie; if you get anymore "Trick" or "High-Tech" UFO's are gonna start hovering over your car as your driving. Pretty cool indeed. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Alright Pete; you cant just dangle a formula in front of my face & expect me to just go away quietly! What does the {cos} in the first & second formula represent & what does the SQRT, *sin and ^2 represent in the second formula? Rod/Stroke Ratio's definately change the data; results are only as good as their input. The crank throw is what kind of had me concerned when mapping out a graph-I didnt have any problem w/the vertical movement...but once the crank came up/down on its throw-that would've been a little more tedious attempting to map...other than the cyl.vol. merely maintaing the steady figure till the vertical movement began again. Pete; if you can complete that spreadsheet-that would be a Godsend. It doesnt appear too many others realize the benefit that spreadsheet would offer. I think once they began playing w/the numbers & understand the underlying issues-their Light Bulb will go off! When I read this in my newly acquired book-I didnt fully understand it at first...I understood/knew it had important significance-but I had to re-read it for about 30 minutes before my Light Bulb went off & my elevator bell rang anouncing it had finally reached the top floor! Ding-Ding-Ding! PETE, I NEED THAT BOOK, "Mechanics of Machines" what is its copywrite year, who publisher it, who authored it & how much was the book? Anxiously awaiting that spreadsheet Pete! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited April 16, 2001).]

Scottie, Very interesting stuff. BTW-I was checking out some auto/performance books again this past Saturday at B&N. I came across a TPI/LT1 book that stated you should disconnect the O2 sensor during racing(?). It also suggested using a diode/resistor (whatever) on the coolant sensor that bypasses the coolant sensor while racing as the book stated the coolant sensor will have a tendency of retarding the engine. I know this book was about the LT1..but it's still a GM EFI & probably has the same effect as your system. If you're curious about the diode I can go back to B&N & find that book/relay back here which diode/resistor they suggested(?). Every little bit helps-this may be enough to get you into the 10sec realm. Have you heard of doing this before? What are your thoughts? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I dont know about you but in case of an accident....I dont want Fuel Lines nor spewing fuel anywhere near me! All it takes is one spark & Poof(!)...your toast! I personally wouldnt feel comfortable knowing a fuel line is inside the passenger compartment. If a fuel line is going to crack/leak during an accident-I'ld like that one-two second head start of running away prior to coming in contact w/fuel. If its on the outside leaking & not on the inside-I'm confident that I'll have a couple seconds le-way if that situation ever manifested. If I've misunderstood your comment & my reply has nothing to do w/your question....then NEVERMIND! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Yea; sounds like you might be on to something. I could definately use an upgrade on the blower motor. In the winter (N.Tx for me so you Northerners probably have it worse) My windshield, once it finally defrosts, will never completely defrosts as I'm driving down the road-You have to heat up the compartment so much to keep the windshield clear I get too hot myself-pain in the butooski! I would still prefer a blower motor that really packs a wallup-if one of those Honda motor's arent that strong-then I'll probably do what Paraska did on his & use a Ford blwr mtr; however, I dont want to chop my housing up if I dont have to....so, Happy Hunting Richard-hope you find a better quality/high speed blower mtr that is a drop in for the Z. BTW; while you're at the salvage yard-you can ask the guy behind the counter to check their cross reference book & they can tell you what vehicles used that blower motor-might save you some time; you dont want to spend a lot of time ripping out a blower motor just to find out it was the exact same one you already looked at from a previous car. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited April 16, 2001).]

Looks good/wish it were my car you were painting. BTW-couldnt really tell by the pictures but what color did you use/it didnt quite look silver-but didnt look like a true light lavender/blue mix either(?). The color is very subtle-but noticeable. The underhood detailing looked pretty thorough also-except it was missing 2 cyl's-just kidding/it looked like a lot of hard work coming to an end....gonna be nice when its all said & done! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Yea I go to Harbor Freight sometimes also, and you do get what you pay for/sometimes! Years ago when Snap-On was coming on real strong & flooding the market w/their tools I worked in East Dallas for a shop that reguilt hydraulic tools....all the tool trucks would drop their stuff off at our shop for the "Factory Gaurantee" rebuild after a line tech had worn it out...guess what: At first Snap-On was USA made, till the economy began going south-then one by one theay all began showing up as China built/we would sometimes use the guts from a known China made hydraulic tool to rebuild a snap-on unit regardless of whose name was on it. Same thing w/Chicago Pnuematic (or however you spell it); and sears did the same thing/China built but w/Sears's name on it. Not all but most Hydraulic guns you could swap parts w/regardless of whose name was on it w/in that particular model line. I still like Sears when it comes to sockets & ratches; when it comes to Haydraulic Tools-they're all the same w/exception to Ingersol Ran. The reason Snap-On's cost so much is due to their warranty; when you buy a Snap-On Hydraulic tool you're buying a warranty! The number one reason a Hydraulic Tool fails is because most tech's dont "OIL" the gun prior to use & the internal viens burn up. Once the viens burn up then air simply bypasses the viens & the gun gives the feeling of "Lossed Power". Most Hydraulic Ratchets fail from the same non-oiling or they are used to "Untorque" a bolt-the Hydraulic Ratches were never intended to "Untorque" a bolt; instead they were intended to remove or install the bolt after its been "Untorqued" by a breaker bar. About the mandrel; if you want nice "Unkinked" bends; you're gonna half to pay alot more than what Arbor Freight has. Back in FFA when I was young/dumb & full of energy (High School days)...our FFA shop had an electrical Hydraulic Pipe bender that would rotate around a steel wheel as it was bending...this would create that smooth bend finish. Dont know how much one of those would cost but I'm sure it isnt cheap. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited April 15, 2001).]

Yea David...did get kind of long-jsut didnt want to leave anything out in case there were those out there that didnt want to buy the book-they'ld at least get a good explanation of the process; besides if I only typed one phrase everyone here would've known it wasnt me & that I'ld been taken over by the Pod-People! Yes, alluminum will usually allow an individual to up the Comp.Ratio "1" notch w/out worry of detonation; however, some folks feel that iron cyl.heads that retain their heat allows them to create more power because of iron's abilty to store that energy (I still prefer alluminum if I can afford it). The book was, "How to Build Chevy Rat Motors" the undercaption is Hot Rodding BBC's 90's Style & written by Ed Staffel/copywrite 96 & published by SADesign. Again the book is about BBC's & the article on cam selection/octain & static comp.ratio is only two pages; there is a map/graph of the stock 454 stroke relationship in degrees -vs- location of cyl. & its remaining volume...but again only for the BBC & not for the SBC. After having posted this initially I read it further & realized it really wouldnt be that hard to map the stroke of any engine's piston. I say this for this reason. TDC is considered 0* & half way down the cyl is 90* while BDC is 180*; then half way back up the cyl is another 90* & all the way up to TDC is another 90*....voila 360*. At first I thought it would take at least a day but when you divide the cyl into 1/8th's it really probably wouldnt take that long to do; just my thoughts(?). Kevin, (Yea,Still a "3page Article" Inliner) [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited April 15, 2001).]

Hoover, Dont apologize about "Rambling" we all do it/I'm the worst. Besides, you just completed two very labor intensive mod's on your car! Remember; this is the forum to Meekly present forth your good deeds/works for Viewing by the rest of the Humble/Meek crowd. We dont brag on our cars/we let our cars do the bragging for us! Congrats on the progress! Kevin, (Yea,Still a "Cant Brag Yet" Inliner) [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited April 15, 2001).]

quote: Originally posted by RPMS: For those interested in such things, the DIYEFI webpage is at http://www.diy-efi.org/diy_efi/ Scott Ferguson Okay, I'm confused(?). Just got thru looking at the site Scott listed; in the "Oem systems" of that site there were hardly any pumps that exceeded 40 GPH & those that did barely hit the 50 GPH mark. Guess my question is then; why is everyone going for the Holley "Blue" Pump which lists as 110 GPH? The formaula I have for determining GPH is: Air CFM x 4.38 x .08/6 (6 represents 6lbs per gallon) CFM = Displacement x Max Rpms/3456 x VE This formaula assumes a gasoline max power air to fuel ratio of 12.5:1 at sea level (14.7psi air pressure) and 59*F outside ar temp/and fact that gasoline weighs about 6lbs per gallon. With those in mind: a 383SBC @ 7000rpms and assuming a 90% VE only requires 40 GPH; then tach on another 10 GPH for safety reasons & still you are only at 50 GPH. I'm not satisfied that a Normally Aspirated engine driven on the street requires a 110 GPH; not to mention it is noisy/why not obtain a factory fuel pump from another auto mfg w/the required needs...I'm sure the mfg has gone to extremes to make their pumps quiet as possible. Some of the Porsche/Mercedes pumps on the site Scott listed were pretty on the mark w/the 45-54 GPH requirements. Just my .02c's worth. Thanks Scott for that site/it was interesting & informative. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Well; where to begin? This process basically allows one to take any chouce of camshaft & determine one's "REQUIRED" Static Compression Ratio based on the Total Chamber Volume w/the octane of your choice; all this even w/out ever purchasing one component, w/the exception of the block/crank-you will need your block/crank with at least one piston in it to degree the vertical movement in the cylinder in relationship to the rotary movement in degrees of crank rotation. I thought it was pretty cool when I read it! I found it in another book at B&N; the process was covered in two of the books pages, the rest of the book is pretty much like any other book. I purchased this book simply because of this process outlined. I'll attempt to make it clear as I found it most interesting. The theory was derived by David Vizard & Dema Elgin of Elgin Cams. The author was merely "regurgitating" their theory. The theory once you understand it is like a "Light Bulb" going off & makes perfect sense and is another "Cog in the Latter" to determing which components to build around your block/cam choices. I'll attempt to explain the theory then give the example in the book as a viewable sample. In determing Intake Closing (IC) you need the "Seat to Seat" figure in Degrees & not the "@ .050" figure. There are a few knowns you must determine prior to playing w/the numbers such as: 1)What is the Swept Volume of an individual Cylinder converted to cc's? 2)When does the intake valve close on a particular camshaft? 3)What type of fuel will be used/pump or high octane race fuel? Once you've chosen your displacement the rest of the theory is based on the timing; specifically the closing of the intake as the piston rises on the compression stroke. Vizard & Elgin had a graph w/the BBC crank in a 1*increments from 0* up to 90* & then backwards from 90* to 0* representing a full comleted 180* cycle. This way/when you obtain your IC* you merely look at the graph to determine where the cyl. is w/in the stroke & that tells you how much cyl.vol. remains w/in that particualr stroke. Once you know the closing of the intake valve you then obtain the location of the piston w/in the cyl. as to how much volume remains between the top of the piston & TDC. Once you've obtained this "%" (Percentage) you multiply this "%" by the "Total Chamber Volume" & divide that figure by the gas type; the gas type is given as a number of "8.5" for pump gas and a "9" for higher race octane fuels. This will give you the Total Chamber Volume. Then you can take the "Total Chamber Volume" to determine your required "Static Comp.Ratio" needed. In other words/you can determine which comp.ratio works best when this particular cam is chosen!! The sample given is a BBC/the process remains the same as Comp.Ratio is a mechanical equation & is immaterial to the engine being a 4cyl,6cyl, V8 ect, ect/the process remains the same-the book chose a BBC as the book was about BBC's. 454 Big Block Chevy bored .030: a)Bore x Stroke = 4.250 x 4.0 1)Swept Volume 460 divided by 8 (8cyl's in a V8) = 57.5ci per cyl 2)Convert C.I. per cyl. to cc's; 57.5 x 16.387 = 942.25cc's Total Swept Vol.per cyl Example Cam = Intake closing (IC) of 48*ABDC Now that we know the IC = 48* we now have to determine what "%" of the total cyl.volume remains in the comp.stroke. Upon degree'g the cam to find TDC & BDC/they determined 88% of the piston travel remains in the Comp.Stroke. 2)We know we have a "Total Piston Swept Volume" of 942.25 & 88% cyl.volume remaining & have chosen to use pump gas..."8.5" fuel type used. Total Chamber Volume = Total Swept Vol. x % of Cyl.Vol/Gas Type -1 942.25x88%/8.5 - 1 = 829.18/7.5 = 110.55733cc Next we do the following in order to find the best static comp.ratio for the cam we've chosen: Static Comp.Ratio Needed = Total Swept Vol. + Total Chamber Vol/Ttl Chamber Volume 942.25 + 110.55733/110.5733 = 1052.8073/110.55733 = 9.5227272 or 9.5:1 THIS IS TOO COOL! Another example he gave for that same eng.combo was a cam w/an IC = 78*ABDC; What Static Comp.Ratio would then be required? The Remaining Cyl.Vol w/an IC of 78* turned out to be 68.4%. Working out the formula as previously exlained gives us the following: Total Swept Volume = 942.25 x .684/9.0 - 1for race fuel = 644.499/8 = 80.56cc's Now solve for the required static comp.ratio: Static Comp.Ratio Needed = 942.25 + 80.56/80.56 = 1022.81/80.56 = 12.696251 or 12.7:1 I dont know about you but when I read this...I sighed a sigh of relief/as I'm always attempting to take the guess work out of determining the selection of a camshaft & its related/required components...hope I related this info intelligently. BTW: The author also says-because different cam mfg's measure opening/closing rates at different degree's one should only compare a given cam to other cams w/in that mfg's selection of cams; also-dont compare a hyd.cam to a roller cam; or a hyd.roller cam to a mech.roller. This way you wont be comparing apples to oranges! If you dont know the "Seat to Seat" figures/simply call the cam's tech line & they'll have that info for you. The author also claims he found that any cam offering an IC that leaves 88% cyl.vol will operate best at a static comp.rato of 9.5:1 on pump gas. If more than 88% cyl.vol remains then a lesser static comp.ratio of 9.5:1 may be used on pump gas of 89-93 octaines; 94% cyl.vol will work w/9.0:1 static comp.ratio's on pump gas. If there is less; say 84%/then the engine will require a 10.5:1 static comp.ratio & higher octaine fuel. Cams which leave 80% in the cyl. will require a statci comp.ratio of 11.0:1 while Cam's that leave 70% will need 12.4:1 static comp.ratio & high octane race fuels. One last comment; once you've chosen your Bore x Stroke conmbo & required static comp.ratio; The actual "Figure" for the static comp.ratio is a figure that cant change. What you can change w/in the "Desired Static Comp.Ratio" are the Head Gskt compressed volume in cc's, the piston deck to block deck vol in cc's & the dome/dish vol in cc's; you can play around w/those variables to come up w/the "Desired Static Comp.Ratio"! From there; you can choose a set of cyl.heads based on your required Airflow needs & an intake/carb to match...and the pen has never left the paper yet! I know this isnt a quick fix for anyone-but w/a little patience on any given Saturday one could grab a degree wheel & dial indicator and map out your crank's location w/in your block; & the rest as they say is history! Really now-we spend so much time on our projects/what's one more saturday if it takes the guess work out of choosing a camshaft? Doesn't anyone else understand this besides me? Once you've mapped out your crank in degrees.....you have it for the rest of eternity & can pick/choose cam's w/that graph! Sorry if I rambled/but I know this will eleviate a lot of troubled minds when it comes to cam selection -vs- comp.ratio & fuel octanes! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited April 15, 2001).]

Hey Jeff, Heck of a dilemma. I had a buddy w/a rebuild 350 in an 80Chevy Blazer; he couldnt get his mildly rebuilt 350 to pass emiss's either...we dont have a limit as to how many times one can attempt passing emiss's here in N.Tx. He tried multiple times/changing this changing that. I finally talked him into purchasing a complete Ignition pkge from Jacobs; once he installed it & took it for inspection/their print out indicated that all emiss's where well below their required levels; he passed w/flying colors! Some people dont like Jacobs...I dont know why-I prefer the variable multiple sparks required based upon the load of an engine which Jacobs offers....you dont always need a hot spark at idle where as you'ld need a good hot spark at high rpm when engine loads demand it. Anyway...just FWI/Check them out-see what ya think. You can find their number in any hotrod magazine in the back w/all the other adds. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

That's a very informative site; pretty cool. I wasnt privy to all the Oil Filter Lingo; however, there used to be a Green Light Auto parts store in town (till Auto Zone & O'Rielly put them out of business) that had 4 oil filters displayed on the counter. Each one of these filters: AC Delco, Fram, FOMOCO & Wix had all been cut at the base, so you could remove the metal housing & inspect each one from the inside. Needless to say the WIX had the best looking internals compared to the others. I would buy a WIX filter for my International P/U & Olds Cutlass while I always bought a Fram for my Toyota Corolla beater. I must admit-I've aslo been buying Fram filters for my Z w/its stock L-engine-guess that might change from here on out. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Thanks Eric for the pic's; just one thing tho-Give us more pic's of completed cars w/different angles of the same car...we can never get enough pic's. Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner)

Ross, My car's temp never moves/always stays right in the middle accept on the 115*F days-it'll then move to the right but only a little. My floor heats up if I sustain the 3500rpm's for any period of time. I'll definately try some insulation when I do my swap. SSS510, Interesting to see "SSS510" as your name...Courtesy Nissan in Plano Tx has one of those "SSS" badges on a plaque behind their parts counter/ & no, he wont sell it-I already asked. Let us know what it's like after you've swapped the T-56 in. Mike, I have the factory 4spd & my car cruises okay in the 2200-2500rpm range...as long as I'm not going up a steep hill; When I'm doing 70mph my rpm's are at the 3400-3600rpm range-I could definately go w/a 10k RPM drop at the 70mph speed zones...but I'm still gonna wait for my V8 swap before I go w/the T-56. IMHO; I dont see that the gear ratio's differ that much from a stock 4spd...w/exception of the 5th & 6th addt'l gears of course. I'm also making the referance to the factory Datsun 78 vintage gearing out of my Owner's manual; I'm not familiar w/other Datsun/Nissan gear ratio's. Datsun 4spd/5spd Ratio's 1) 3.321 2) 2.077 3) 1.308 4) 1.000 5) .864 Standard T-56 1) 2.97 2) 2.07 3) 1.43 4) 1.00 5) .80 6) .62 !st gear is actually gonna wind out futher in the T-56 than the stock Datsun trans...dont know if that is better or worse w/less HP/Torque of an L-engine(?). [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited April 11, 2001).]

Forgive me for asking...but I assume your swap is going into a "Z"..correct me if I'm wrong. First your have to decide: 1)What your most often driving range (RPM)will be 2)What the weight of the car is 3)What transmission you'll be using 4)What size tires you're using 5)Where you'ld like the Peak-Power to be (RPM-wise) 6)What you'ld like your car to do in the 1/4mile...this is usually a good point of reference for performance Once you've decided what your desired Peak-Power RPM needs are you then can address cam/intake selection & build around that...cam/intakes are usually listed by their Mfg's by their peak-power range(s). Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Like FastFrog said; it all depends on the bucks you wish to spend (or Not Spend). If you're not sure which components to use; make a free call to some tech lines/they always have their "In-House" recipe's for Hp/Torque builds: this should give you a reference of where you are/where you need to be. Definately read thru the past threads & memorize the JTR manual. Spend a lot of time understanding the important issues of CFM/Airflow/Timing as well as Gearing. This way-your choices wont be a "Guess" but an educated choice & you most likely wont be disappointed afterward. Be patient in your choices & ask lots of questions & dont let anyone "Bull" you into accepting their ideas-its your pocketbook! When you are surfing thru all the possibilities remember the most important things. 1) What will be your basic/most often mph you'll be driging 2) Where will you be driving it most 3) What would you like your peak power "RPM" to be 4) You already know you transmission type 5) What tires size are you planning on using 6) What would you like your car to do in the 1/4 (this is usually a point of referance-regarding HP/Torque) *NOTE: Once you've determined where you prefer you RPM "Peak-Power" to come in-you can then begin looking at cam/intake selection which parallels the rpm's of your required "Peak-Power Band". Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)