Kevin Shasteen

Well I'm glad to hear you were persistant enough to actually talk w/a rep. Its hard to believe they think that way; as if the Hot Rod Crowd isnt intelligent enough to decipher which head is the correct head....sure a small percentage would buy imporperly/but just think about how many sells they're losing by not posting(?). I guess they forgot where their corporate owners got their start (Hot Rodders turned Racers!) & look what they were smart enough to do...they basically began the aftermarket Cyl.Head wars! Guess their business is good enough (or atleast that's what they're CEO would like to believe) they dont need the Peasants (us) getting in their way...oh well/their loss! After you make your purchase I'ld shoot them a picture of you newly bought cyl.heads w/the letter explaining you purchased the cyl.heads because you knew going into the purchase what you were buying...maybe-just maybe they'ld rethink their position on sells. It relly is too bad-DART has some nice cyl.heads; just no public info on them! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ August 03, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

John Scott, I personally dont know of any sites one could go to for Dart Cyl.Head flow charts. Of all the cyl.head mfg's now on the market "Dart" seems to be the most secretive. I guess since their start was in racing & they assist some Auto Mfg's w/R&D they feel a sense to "be secretive" or else they just feel their reputation will sell their heads themselves. Either way I'ld prefer to have charts to look at prior to plunking my 1k on some cyl.heads; alluminum or iron! The only info I've ever found on Dart was on their Iron Eagle & they flowed 270cfm @ .500 lift w/28*HG...then again their Iron Heads and are a design of late 80's. I like cyl.heads & mfg's that dont mind posting their results. There is a lot of info on AFR, Brodix & Edelbrock heads or even Chevy/Buick/Pontiac chevy heads for that matter. If I had the money to spend on Alluminum Cyl.Heads I'ld buy anything but Dart...then I'ld send a nice letter to Dart explaining why I didnt even consider them (no info to the consumer for comparisons)...at least not easily obtainable comparisons. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I agree w/Bubbafet; the Z doesnt need a lot of torque due to its lightweight body. Go w/the Alluminum Intake, Different Cam Profile & Alluminum Cyl.Heads....Emphasis on Alluminum Cyl.Heads. W/the technology now existing in Alluminum Cyl.Heads you can easliy obtain that magic 400hp level w/more than enough torque for the Z. Save the money & go w/the Alluminum Heads....then again/there's no substituion for cubic inches; just depends on what you want! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Mike, That looks really good; looks like a lot of knuckle busting took place. The car really looks nice; bet the convertible part isnt too bad either! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Paragod; that was a very informative link. I've spent many years (13years & no longer working for MIC) with MIC, GM's side of insurance: protection plans & lot insurance for the dealers to be specific. I wish I could say I was surprised at those stories...but I'm not! There is so much "BULL" that goes on from upper management behind the closed doors that you wouldnt believe it! I told my boss when he asked if I'ld taken advantage of the "Employee Purchase Program" why I had purchased a Nissan P'Up & not a GM P'Up-he just shrugged & walked away. The reason is that I found out the asian Mfg's take lost funds on all "Recalls" out of the profits of their CEO's & Presidents pockets while the "American" Mfg's only want to sell the consumer a "Great Protection Plan". My question is, if its such a great car then why does it need "The Great Protection Plan" to begin with? Prior to purchasing my P'Up neither Toyota nor Nissan pushed a Protection Plan while the GM dealers wanted to push their fine plans prior to even purchasing the car. When I worked w/the GMPP Dept (General Motors Protection Plan) I got to see the "At Cost" numbers for the differing protection plans...even on the Non-GM cars. I always got a laugh when GM's Cadillac Customers would get charged $3000 (that is the "At Cost" amount-the Dealer would charge retail @ $5000 total) for their premium protection plans while the "At Cost" (I'm sure the dealers would charge the same $5000 retail cost)for their premium charges for the Lexus type luxury cars were @ $350 to $500....Hhmmm(?) somethings amiss here; I wonder what it could mean? Okay, I'm thru ranting now! These prices were the mid 90's prices...things may have changed by now (but I doubt it). During my "informative/eye-opening" tenure w/GMPP; we'ld receive a packet at the beginning of every week, about 30 pages on average, of GM bulletins, quiet recalls, of what to look out for...at the end of the year we'ld have reams of notebooks filled w/Bulletins from any/all makes of GM? I hardly think the upper GM Mgt really is looking out for the consumer! I rarely enjoyed meating the Big Wigs when they'ld make a special visit to our Dallas office/a few of them were good people/most of them were merely "Going thru the Motions". One other quick note for anyone purchasing protection plans upon the purchase of a new or used car. Dont just expect the dealer to process the protection plan & hope everything's fine if/when your car breaks down or your health requires the use of the insurance policy. I noticed a trend (very rare but still a trend) in that some dealers were [bad] about [forgetting] to process the protection plan....when the service dept called to turn in a claim "No Protection Plan in the System"....when I worked for the PDP dept (premises insurance) I found out that occasionally a dealer would get sued for Insurance Fraud: charge cust's for insurance & then intentionally not process the protection plan or insurance policy hoping the customer never needs it. This means the dealer gets to keep all the money from the "alleged" transaction & doesnt have to share any of it w/GM...or whomever the underwriter was: great for the Dealer but not so good for the Consumer as some insurance compainies go broke after so many years: a good insurance policy (even if the insurance company goes broke) will be absorbed by another insurance company-so the customer isnt left hanging: but if the dealer never filed the paperwork the consumer is "left holding the bag". So after purchasing the policy/protection plan....give it a few weeks & then call the claim center to confirm you are in their database: you may be glad you followed up on the dealer! Jamie...good luck to you on the Cad engine-its got a good design/just a lot of extra baggage to go along w/it! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ July 31, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

Sorry to hear that Mike; unfortunately we can only give you morale support & not financial support! Just keep in mind....you really have one "Seriously Bad to the Bone Z" & as Davy said; this should be pretty close to the last major investment for you prior to kicking some major street but. Keep us updated: I know that you, like Pete, have put a lot of elbow grease and money into your car & cant wait to get it street worthy/let us know how it turns out! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Pete, That's why I like this method; I'm conviced & whe hear it all the time, that most engine builders over carb & over cam their engines. Definately something that makes you "Stop & go Hmmm(?)." About the "Runnine out of Steam" thing; wouldnt that have more to do w/the Cyl.Head's Intake Port Entry & not the camshaft. If you went w/a Cyl.Head that has a larger Intake Port Entry Area (Sq.In's) the Peak Power would climb higher than that of an engine w/Cyl.Heads whose Intake Port Entry was smaller. Remember, the cyl.head ariflow goes supersonic when airflow reaches 57% of 1200 fps when combined w/the heat the engine produces. You definately need a cyl.head that can breathe at those speeds-but the single most restrictive restrictiion is the Cyl.Head's Intake Port Entry X-sectional Area....atleast that is what Vizard would have us believe. Early rise tomorrow (I mean this morning); I'm tired-going to bed. Good Night all. I'm sure Pete will be counting Solid Cams tonight in his sleep & not Sheep! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ July 26, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

Its 8.5-1 = 7.5 for Pump Gas & 9-1 = 8 for Race Gas. It just depends on what you like. Somehow I get the feeling you really like the "Rumpity Rump" Cammy sound of an engine! Then go w/the larger cam. Remember what Lingenfelter said in his book. When you come across two cam's of equal or almost equal lift; go w/the cam that has a larger lift & smaller ramp. To determine the ramp's agressiveness: just subtract the Duration @ .050" spec from the Advertised Duration spec. Happy Rumpity Rump hunting to ya (I have a gut feeling that your going w/the larger cam). Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ July 26, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

Pete, I know you cant compare Apples to Oranges; but, bare w/me for a moment while I compare Apples to Oranges-then I'll give you my stance on your Camshaft dilemma. When I rebuilt my Olds 350 I didnt want a "Barely Streetable" engine but I did want a nice peppy car. I had a chance to go w/a cam (Hydraulic) w/about the same spec's you're wanting. I went w/the smaller one; the "Lift" is similar to your 268 cam but the duration was slightly smaller. My LDA was 112. I really, really, really enjoy the fact that my engine is streetable & has the performance sound I was looking for. Just FWI. My Olds idles at 750 easily; has a decent idle/just a hint of "Obvious Performance"; the dual exhuast helps. Granted the Chevy Cyl.Heads should breathe better than an Olds head. My cyl.heads were ported & blueprinted w/the intake. Really runs nice. Now...back to the Ranch & your current two cams. Using the Crank Slider Mechanism Graph (you pointed me in the right direction a few months ago) & using David Vizard &Dema Elgin of Elgin Cam's process of choosing cams & comp.ratio's...this is what I've come up w/on your engine. You say you have 9.7:1; I'm assuming you've confirmed this & are not guessing-so that is the figure we'll use. For starters; your 268 cam's Valve Events are as follows: .488/.501 Lift & 110 LDA IVO = 28* BTDC IVC = 60* ABDC EVO = 33* BBDC EVC = 61* ABDC The 274 cam's Valve Events are as follows: .501/.510 Lift & 110 LDA IVO = 31* BTDC IVC = 63* ABDC EVO = 35* BBDC EVC = 63* ATDC The valve events themselves are not that different as you can see; its the Lift that I'm wondering about. Going w/the Slider Crank Engine Map Graph: this would tell us where the piston is located in the cylinder when the IV closes (IVC) on each cam. First we'll take the 268 Cam's IVC of 60* ABDC & then we'll look at the 274 Cam's IVC of 63* ABDC & apply it to the Crank Slider Map Graph. My print out of your 327 SBC indicates that .804% Cyl.Volume remains at 60* ABDC for the 268 Cam while .784% Cyl.Volume remains at 63* ABDC for the 274 Cam. According to the process we proceed as follows: 327 / 8 = 40.875 x 16.387 = 669.82 cc's per cylinder displacment 268 Cam again, (using .804% Cyl.Vol): 669.82cc x .804 = 538.53% Cyl.Vol Remaining after the IVC. 538.53/7.5 (7.5 is the Pump Gas Constant) = 71.80cc's which represents your "Final" Combustion Chamber required for the 268 cam. Its comp.ratio is determined as follows: 669.82cc + 71.80cc/71.80cc = 10.32:1 CR Now lets take the 274 Cam (.748% Cyl.Vol @ IVC) 669.82cc x .748% = 525.13% Cyl.Vil Remaining after the IVC. 525.13 / 7.5 (7.5 Pump Gas Constant) = 70.01cc is the "Final" Combustion Chamber cc's Required to run w/the 274 Cam. Its comp.ratio is determined as follows: 669.82 cc + 70.01cc/70.01cc = 10.57:1 CR. Now you can see, according to Vizard/Elgin's process your cam choices are slighty large for your 9.7:1 engine: you probably could get by but your cyl's would be loosing too much cyl.pressure prior to the IV closing. Your current engine 9.7:1 CR requires a cam that w/an IVC of around 50* ABDC: I dont even think Comp.Cams sells a Solid Cam that closes the IV any sooner than 60* ABDC. Even if they did it would hinder the entire reason for choosing a Solid Cam...so the 60* or the 63* ABDC IVC should be okay; its the Lift & Duration I'm concerned with for a street engine that you probably wont be thrashing to terribly often...go w/the 268! I personally think you can get by w/the cam's you are looking at-but if Vizard/Elgins process for picking cams/comp.ratio is accurate...then those cams are pushing the "Too Big" arena for a street engine. If in the future you wish to up the comp.ratio then you can go w/a larger cam. That 268 will be plenty for the lighter Z which will be ran on the street....hey, why not pick up some Alluminum Cyl.Heads w/smaller Combustion Chambers...what's another $1000? I love this Crank Slider Engine Map Graph thing...it is so cool. Hope this helped shed some light on the subject: good luck Pete on your cam choice. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ July 25, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

It wont matter as long as each consecutive spark plug wire is plugged into the correct terminal on the cap in the correct firing order (1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2); and as long as you have plenty room to manually adjust the dist. by hand when the time comes to fine tune it. If its out by more than a tooth or two you may not be able to get it started; you may have to pull it & align it w/the vacuum canister on the other side....I wouldn't mess w/it for now-I'ld wait till you have it all together & are ready for the fine tuning. For now-all you should be concerned with is that you have spark to the dist. from the coil. From there-its down hill the rest of the way. When you say "Bloop Bloop" do you mean that as in a good "Bloop Bloop" as in it was trying to start or a bad "Bloop Bloop" as in it wouldnt start but was merely backfiring? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ July 25, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

Howdy Evan, Welcome to the site; your rear gears of choice all depends on what your engine is capable of & how your car is set up to handle its capabilities. What RPM does your engine come into peak torque & peak hp? If your 5.0 is mildly souped up then we can atleast assume 300-350hp(?): yes-no? 350hp at 5500rpm's w/3.7 gears & @ 26" tires is going to net you 100mph in 4th gear (Standard trans) & about 60mph in 5th gear at 2500rpms. If you're going road racing-be prepared to break things...especially that stock 5spd! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

With an intro like that/maybe you should sell your movie rights to someone. Good to hear you got the car home safely; Oooh! three people in a Z for an 18 hour trip. Been there/done that (not for 18 hours tho) & luckily I was the driver/owner so I always got the good seat! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

ZSpeed, Comp.Ratio (9.2:1) has nothing to do w/the Pump Gas Octane rating...other than a coincidental link that street performance engines wont run very well on a pump gas w/an Octane Rating less than 92. If you wish to understand Fuels/Oil's & how they get their ratings I'ld suggest you purchase a book entitled "High Performance Automotive Fuels & Fluids" by Jeff Hartman & Published by Motorbooks International w/a Copywrite date of 1996...very insightful book. As far as you question on "What is Comp.Ratio"...that is as involved as the octane ratings of fuels. But here's the skinny on Comp.Ratio's as I see it. The simple way of stating what Compression is...is as follows: Cyl.Displacement Vol + Cyl.Head Combustion Volume / Cyl.Head Comb.Volume. Keeping in mind there are tow actual Comp.Ratio's that effect eng.performance-& they are: 1) Static Comp.Ratio 2) Dynamic Comp.Ratio. Static Comp.Ratio is the comp.ratio while the engine is not running while the Dynamic Comp.Ratio is the actual comp.ratio while the engine is running: The latter is different as Valve Events (determined by the camshaft design) will effect the cyl's ability to "Seal Itself" prior to combustion-& therefor will differ slightly at times to Static Comp.Ratio. When people speak of Comp.Ratio's they are usually referring to Static Comp.Ratio. Picture if you can, one of your engine's pistons...as it rises & decends w/in the cylinder. As its displacement allows (Displacement = Bore^2 x Stroke x .7854 x #of Cylinders) your engine is allowing a certain amount of air into the cylinders for combustion. As this air is entering the cyl's for combustion you have to consider the volume in the cylinder when the piston is at Bottom Dead Center (BDC) & you have to consider the volume remaining while the piston is in Top Dead Center (TDC). As a brain teaser-you also have to include all the factors w/in the engine that effect the cyl's ability to "Seal The Cyl" during the combustion process....AKA: The Camshaft & its Valve Events; such as a) Intake Valve Opening, b)Intake Valve Closing, c)Exhaust Valve Opening, d) Exhaust Valve Closing. To tease the brain even further-you now have to consider the qualities of "What Makes A Camshaft Work": such as Lift, Duration, Lobe Seperation Angle, Lobe Centerline ect ect, but that is another discussion. Back to the subject at hand; compression ratio below the deck of the block while the piston is at BDC is called Displacement Volume while the volume of air in the cylinder head's combustion chamber while the piston is at TDC is called Combustion Chamber Volume. Because the Comb.Chamber Volume is also apart of the Displacement Volume when the piston is at BDC it too must be included when working the formula for Static Comp.Ratio: this is where the "1" comes from when citing a comp.ratio such as "9.2:1". The "1" represents the Comb.Chamber w/in the quoted ratio: whereas the "9" in the quote is the ratio w/in the cylinder if you were to divide the "1" into the Displacement Vol. In other words; a 9.2:1 Comp.Ratio means that the "1" (represents Comb.Chamber Vol) will fit 9.2 times into the the Displacment Vol. Or, 1 x 9.2 = Displacement Vol while 1 x 1 = Comb.Chamber Vol; thus the 9.2:1 cited Comp.Ratio. To understand Dynamic Comp.Ratio...think back on the 60/70's Muscle Car era when engines were being built w/350-450hp & alleged Static Comp.Ratio's in the 12's. Yes, they were running on Ethyl 106 & even higher leaded pump gas octanes at the times...but their camshafts had so much had so much Overlap that the cylinders would not seal until a good amount of displacment volume would leak out (due to the cam's excessive overlap) that their Dynamic Comp.Ratio would actually be in the 8:1 to 9:1 Comp.Ratio's...thus their ability to be ran on the streets. Hope this helps you and didnt confuse you. It takes time to understand some issues but dont give up. It took me about 5-10 years of reading & tripping my way thru trial/error before understanding...& I didnt have the Internet nor HybridZ buds to help me understand; nor were there as many Auto Perf.Books back in the late 70/early 80's as there are now. Your on a much better learning curve than I & many others had. Dont get discouraged & always/always remember to have fun. If you're not having fun then you're doing it wrong! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ July 25, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ]

Axarph, Well, what are you doing way up there in NY; what's happening. If you're planning on building a mild V8; 300hp or 350 should be as easy as falling of a log. Keep Comp.Ratio around 9.2:1 & your camshaft Intake Valve Closing @ 60* ABDC or less & Advertised Duration around 260 to 270 w/lift no more than .480" or .490" & you will have an idle that is slightly different than stock (definately noticeable) but still able to idle around the 700rpm range & ran quite easy on pump gas. The dream stage is a good stage-doesnt cost anything but time! Keep dreaming & read (memorize) the JTR manual/& ask a question any time you're not sure about something. I too am in the dream stage-I'ld like to eventually have @ 400FWHP if/when I get to build mine & shifting the T-56...one of these days maybe. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

NoUseForaName292, A rather inlightening book I found as a "Step-by-Step" SBC [How-To] was: How To Build The Small Block Chevrolet" by Larry Atherton & Larry Schreib w/Copywrite Date of 1993 & Published by SA-Design. Their undercaptions read, Easy,Step-by-Step Approach, covers all SBC's. I've read thru it & it appears to be complete. Their authors brag on the fact that they've left no stone unturned & that they have a picture for every step. They also brag that you dont need "ANY" previous experience providing you use their book as a guide. Nothing vague in it. Buy it/order it from your nearest bookstore....you wont be disappointed. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Yea hang in there Scott-I think someone should come up w/that Greek character's name-we can dub his name as the process our Z's must go thru before being labeled "Streetable". Pete!!! I cant wait to see your Z! I'll be looking for pictures when I get home later today...providing there are no surprises for you when you pick up your car/dont keep us un suspense! The party's waiting! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

ZltMaster, A V8Z & only $2800 (besides blood-sweat-tears)...that's fantastic/congrats on your powertrain completion; I'm too jealous. I dont think I have to remind you to keep us informed of all the spanking of the unaware competitors you/your car are about to dish out! Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

A 4"Bore SBC block would require a 3.25" stroke. The PAW book under [Crower Cranks] has a 3.250" crank...but their prices range from $1700-$2100. I dont know what the dynamics of having a standard crank off-center ground would yield or if it can even be done, but, maybe you might call a specialty shop & shoot the question; certainly its been done before. Either way-its gonna cost you if you are set on using a custom ground crank. Kevin (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Ron, you kill me. I cant believe they didnt catch that! Too, too funny. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Congrats Mike on your purchase; I cant wait to see your car when finished (as if?). BTW: when I watched a NASCAR/Truck race the other day I noticed how their front air dam came around the lower fender & wrapped in front of the tires all the way in front of the tire & to the sides of the tires ever so slightly....have you thought of this? Just thinking out loud/throwing ideas your way. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Ross, good for you for researching your own condition & resolving it naturally...I always enjoy a good success story. Ross, (Anyone else whose interested of course) are you familiar w/Colloidal Silver-stops the inflamation of the skin; kills bacteria on contact...especially good for those of you who are allergic to Poison Ivy-stops/kills Poison Ivy on contact: providing the "ppm" of the Colloidal Silver are high enough/most store bought "ppm" are too low to really make a difference-you have to "Brew Your Own". Do a search on line for anyone's whose interested. Colloidal Silver is great for Ear-Aches...for any of you whose kids are goind thru the ear ache syndrome-Colloidal Silver stops the pain "Immediately" I know-I've used it many times for an ear ache. Really Great Stuff! Mat; with a list of injuries like that-are you sure your name isnt Evil K-nevil (sp?) or Richard Petty? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

I agree w/the Ed-miester & that he knows what he's taliking about. However, he did mention & agree w/the longer dwell time...and this effects timing/that has always been the intriguing part for me when discussing longer rods! A longer rod also moves the piston higher up towards a "0" Deck block-this helps airflow during combustion-thus an optimum combustion will result in less advance in timing which makes for a more efficient engine. I'ld never want to use a piston where its pin has been moved up into the rings; unless I was racing & had full sponsership who'ld flip the bill for an engine rebuild every week or after each race! If the fuss about longer rods were soley intending to give you "MORE HP/TORQUE-then I agree...its a lot about nothing as the gains would be minimal; the dwell time is for timing mostly & not about the extra hp/torque. Kevin, (Yea,Still a "Short Rod" Inliner)

I agree w/the monkey wrench on the cam lobe while someone else pops the cam sprocket bolt w/a 1/2" ratchet & hammer (forget the duct tape; its a manly man tool-no duct tape required). If worse comes to worse; chock the wheels while turning, use the monkey wrench, use the 1/2" ratchet/hammer; & if you must-remove the starter & have another individual put a larger screwdriver on the flywheel tooth to keep the engine from rotating while you're turning. You did say this was a cam-sprocket bolt, didnt you? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

Have you tried using teflon tape on the threads of the brake line fittings? Sometimes when you flare your own lines-the very end the line, the part which is actually flared & is suppose to do the sealing, isnt quite "square" & allows for the flared tip to leak. Believe me when I say, "Sometimes when you tighten the fitting it feels like its about to strip the threads but go just a little bit further for the tip to "slightly crush" & then it will seal. Its kind of like putting spark plugs in your engine & the new spark plug comes w/the soft chrome steel seal ring. As you run the spark plug into the cyl.head threads you can feel the seal ring "squish"...then you know the plug is sealed! Its the same thing w/the brake line flare-you have to "crush" the end as you tighten until the fitting is flush w/its mating surface! Flaring takes a little practice. What I do when I first place the line in the flaring bar...I'll use a plumbers helper when tightening down-this makes sure the line doesnt move during the flaring process...also by using a plumber's helper-you'll notice less stress on your hand, arm & any other body part under stress. For your soarness have you tried MSM (Methysulphonylmethane) & Coral Calcium. Coral Calcimm is Calcium taken from the Coral Reefs of Okinawa Japan. MSM has a bi-product of sulphur which the body needs & cant get enough of-when the correct amount is taken it replaces the skin cells w/healthy skin cells. Coral Calcium has an extra oxide molecule in it; when we age we are losing oxygen (oxidation-just like a car rusting away) where other Calcuim products dont have this extra oxygen molecule-then our bodies degenerate & we/lose our health-the rest is history. Also if your scar tissue is effecting your tendons the muscles are connected to CMO (Cetyl Myristoleate Fatty Acid Complex) for arthritic or tendinitus symptoms. These products are from a Networking Company a few members of my family are in...I didnt believe the CMO, MSM nor the Coral Calcuim till I used them. I was a skeptic about the CMO till my Tennis Elbow began painfully reminding me it was there...I kept doubting their claims till one day the pain was too much (& yes I kept playing Tennis). Awhile back my mother began walking every day & obtained tendinitus in her leg so bad she couldnt hardly walk...we both decided to split a bottle of CMO. Her pain subsided w/in two days while mine took me @ 30 days. The Tennis Elbow was gone-over night no more pain & I've been a believer ever since! I didnt mean for this to become an advertisement...but I kind of "Felt your Pain" when you mentioned "You wanted to Cry-From the Pain". If you're interested or curious-email me your address & I'll send you some info for reading & you can atleast be enlightened or give the info to your doctor for review. Most pharmacy drugs treat the symptoms & not the problems. Kind of like replacing your brake fluid for leaks in the lines--the leaking brake fluid isnt an indication of bad brake fluid but of a leaky line-so why would you replace the fluid when the line connections need attention; this is what many doctors do when they prescribe drugs. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)

W/out knowing the full details attempting to describe the entire starting/igntion system is impossible. But, regarding the starter itselt: if you're looking at the end of the solenoid where the wires connect (the starter bendix pointing away from you) then you should see three prongs; two smaller ones & a larger one in the middle/slightly higher up. The larger prong is for (+) Battery power, the smaller prong to the left is for the Ballast Resistor Bypass while the prong to the right is the Solenoid Actuating Terminal. Your wiring harness for the ignistion should connect to the (+) side of the coil & the (-) side of the coil should have a wire going from it to the distributor. As for the other variables-we need more detials of your system & the problem. Do you have this problem all the time; only when the engine is cold; only after its been driven a few times & the engine is hot after its been turned off (Hot Soak scenario previous post mentioned). An engine w/timing out of whack will make it incredibly hard to start (engine will turn over v-e-r-y s--l--o--w--l--y) when your timing is off & the engine is hot and allowed to sit after being parked for a few minutes prior to being restarted: AKA: Hot Soak. Also; like previoius asked-what kind of ignition system do you have: points/HEI; MSD? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner)