Peternell

I have numerous Holley's: torn em' down, rebuilt them, bought em' cheap cause I know the list number game, have rare ones (3 barrels) BUT I've looked in all my books, on the Holley part # CD I bought and have NO info to determine the correct metering blocks for various carbs. Yes I know in some cases the # on the metering block is the same as the list number. BUT I'm looking for an info source that identifies the correct metering block for each list number. Any help??

041's of 69'-70' should have a triangle rather than the double humps. Will have acc. bolt holes and be 64cc's. Basically the same head as the #186 which are darn good. BUT check those numbers

Thanks to ALL the moderators who give their time. Wouldn't have many questions for ya in this forum, cause I figure you GOTTA have it RUNNING, BEFORE you trouble shot the problems and I'm a little bit from that stage.

A local Cryogenics business caught my eye. (spin off of tech. from the Hanford Nuclear Reservation aka "Lazy H Ranch") I talked with the owner about the process. Basically the molecules are still moving in all metals, but this process slows them down and aligns then for greater strength. Process is to lower the temp to -300F or so and hold it there for 24 hours and slowly over a 2-3 day period bring the temp back up. The local circle burners freeze most every part of the short block. Works great one golf clubs I'm told, specifically the driver (got that from a golfer who had his shaft frozen (OUCH!) Price is based upon size of the part, not weight. Only so much can fit in the vat. Connecting rods are about $30 a set-they are the items I'm considering for this process. Some consider it smoke and mirrors while some swear by it. I'm interested to read what others have to say.

Firts things first, WELCOME! Now what you need to do for the 351W ZX projects: 1) Send ME the Z06 2) Get all the info you need from this forum. "BlueovalZ" I think his name is Terry will have get advice along with the other Ford guys on the site.

Well Andrew, if shes gonna kill ya, you might as well get in trouble for something REALLY Good! How about a DONOVAN ALUMINUM 400 CI SMALL BLOCK CHEVY!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=597055079&r=0&t=0 Oh well, we can dream, cant'we.

Hey Ironman, The gal in the photo is very pretty, but you standing next to her, I don't know. Use photo shop a lot do ya? Ah just kidding. [ October 24, 2001: Message edited by: Peternell ]

Well, would that be a bad thing? I'd post a photo of me but can't cause: ah it would violate national security, er ah people would confuse me with James Bond (early Sean Connery) or all the women of the HybridZ bunch would see it and well I'd be REAL busy, but hey you guys would have lots of free time and $ then. Well the real reason, the computer crashes every time I load the disc from the camera. Kinda like the modern day "crackin' the lense problem"

I think this was the original question under the title "Strokin a 350" "tell me would i be better off with stock crank and push rods or should i swap them for the 305 crank and push rods i have???? i know i will git more RPM out of the 305 crank but wont i lose torqu??? just wondering" ------- (Response from) LONG ROD327 Z " Some cast, 2.45" main journal, 3.48" stroke, two piece cranks have the same casting #(3932442) but are balanced differently. Cast cranks used on 267,305, and 350 motors should not be interchanged from one engine size to another because of possible balancing problems, even though they have the same stroke and will physically interchange in medium journal blocks." Ed Staffel, Small Block Chevy parts interchange manual. I also don't see how pushrods are involved, maybe connecting rods? I hope I was able to help. ----------- (Response from) Peternell "Short stroke = higher revs, higher POINT at which peak HP and Torque are made Long stroke = lower revs to make HP and Torque, lower RPM of peak Torque I know I'm missing some here but: engnes with 3.00" stroke are 265, 283 and 302; 3.25" stroke are 307 and 327; 3.48" stroke are 305 and 350 and 3.75 stroke is the 400. 4" bore engines are 302, 327 and 350. If you want R's put a LJ 327 crank or a 307 crank in a 4-bolt 350. If you want torque put a 400 crank in a 350 block (383) but don't waste your money (regardless of magizine articles) by putting a 400 crank in the 305 block (335) Longer rods (connecting not push rods, right?) have advantages depending on desired results, but I'll let an expert touch on that." I guess I should have left out the details and just posted that the 305 and 350 have the SAME stroke! I assumed it was understood that changes in stroke and or rod length effect compression/pin height. -------- (Another response from )LONG ROD327 Z "Peternell is right. (THANKS LONG ROD) More rev's, less stroke and vice versa. The long rod versus short rod is a long, complicated theory. Long rods fool the cylinder head into thinking that it is bigger than it is by having better cylinder fill and more dwell time at TDC and BDC giving you more airflow potential. Yet, there is a large group that likes to use short rods for different rpm ranges and cylinder head choice. I read an article in Circle Track a ways back and they were comparing engines for restrictor plate use and Martinsville( a very short corner with relatively long straights and 9000+ rpm engine speeds) Under anonymity(?) some engine used long 6.00+ rods and some used short 5.4 or less rods, in both kinds of engines. Another way to look at is to figure out rod ratio. This can be found by dividing the rod length by the stroke. i.e.: 6.00" rod, 3.00" stroke equals a ratio of 2:1. 5.7" rod, 3.48" stroke equals a 1:64.1. The first combination will rev higher and cause less stress to the rotating assembly. Smoky Yunick says it best..."use the longest damn rod you can fit in the engine!!" More on this later, I've got more reading to do..." ------- (Response from) Davy Z Larry and Jason just gave you the correct advice (THANKS DAVY) --you can make a good informed decision based on that....."

Ross thanks for the quick reply. The 383 is the ideal engine for my Blazer, but even with a cam change is not ideal for my Z for my intended purpose, which is go very fast, hopefully in a straight line. ALL wiring in the Z was yanked out and will soon be replaced with a painless kit. Also the 700R4 stays in the Blazer, the Z gets a mystery TH400 (you know the kind, all prepped, never run, bought form a firend of a friend) Compression in the 383 is too low (for all out strip and maybe street engine in the Z) and engine was built well, but parts were not chosen/prepped (ie rings, rod bolts, cast pistons) for the Z's intended purpose. good for low RPM pulling though. Even if the 383 went into the Z it would be swapped in the near future (12 months hopefully) for the well prepped 406. But if it goes into the the Blazer then thats one project finished.

I've come accross a rebuilt 383 that is built for pulling. My 85' full size Blazer has a basically stock 350 w/a 700R4. Thought is swap the 383 into the truck and use the 350 long block in the Z (getting tried of waiting for all the $ need to complete the 406) Anyway this would get the Z rolling and I could work out the bugs, BUT before I violate the "if it ain't broken don't fix it rule" with the Blazer I have a few questions. 1) As part of the swap I want to junk/trash the computer controlled HEI and Q-jet and replace them with good old pre computer parts. 2) Also around here it's "Emission controls, we don't need no stinking emission controls". QUESTIONS Are: 1) Is there a computer between the fuse box and HEI? 2) Can I just run a hot lead from the fuse box to the HEI and eliminate any brain boxes? 3) Will this back to basics swap effect the 700R4? 4) Is there vacumm hose routing that if removed will effect the 700R4? 5) Is this as simple as finding the hot HEI, connecting it to a pre 80' HEI, bolt on a Holley spreadbore and trash the computer controlled HEI and Q-jet? If this doesn't create too much greif then the Z get a proven running engine, even though its in stock 1985 (lame) form. Thanks in advance!

Scottie, I'm actually glad it's taking you a little time to complete the swap. This lets us all be assured that your ARE mortal! Like most I've been following your progress and enjoy seeing the updates, but the help YOU and others on this board provide goes way beyond what anyone could expect or hope for. Hey not done yet completely swapping out that rear suspension and puting in another that needs lots of modifications, whats up slacker? I've moved around the garage 2 or maybe 3 times the rear suspension parts you sent to me. Have I bolted them in yet? Ah-No. Is it a simple bolt in? Well-Ah Yes. What's my problem? One pinch lack of motivation and a whole lotta OTHER PRIORITIES. Pretty much the same for you Scottie? Well except for that lack of motovation part. All of us, except "Goatsteel" appreciate you sharing your ideas, KNOWLEDGE & progress

My $.02 Short stroke = higher revs, higher POINT at which peak HP and Torque are made Long stroke = lower revs to make HP and Torque, lower RPM of peak Torque I know I'm missing some here but: engnes with 3.00" stroke are 265, 283 and 302; 3.25" stroke are 307 and 327; 3.48" stroke are 305 and 350 and 3.75 stroke is the 400. 4" bore engines are 302, 327 and 350. If you want R's put a LJ 327 crank or a 307 crank in a 4-bolt 350. If you want torque put a 400 crank in a 350 block (383) but don't waste your money (regardless of magizine articles) by putting a 400 crank in the 305 block (335) Longer rods (connecting not push rods, right?) have advantages depending on desired results, but I'll let an expert touch on that.

How about a complete engine? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=596918542&r=0&t=0 Something local for ya. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=596676418&r=0&t=0 Here's another one. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=596658819&r=0&t=0 How about a block ready for some work? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=596833872&r=0&t=0 Brand new SCAT 9000 crank. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=596842568&r=0&t=0 Here's a standard for 400 long block for $300 obo from the "Mortec" site FOR SALE - Small block chevy 400 long block. This is a 2-bolt 3951509 casting, 2 freeze plug, std bore block. The crank is also std,and the heads are casting "882"s. The block and crank magnafluxed ok, but the heads have not been checked. Asking $300.00 obo. BBC 427 4-bolt tall deck blocks for $300.00 each or $550.00 for both. I have several other motors for sale too, (327, 350, 355, 377, 383, 400, 402, 454). Jason, 423-246-8299. Parts located in Kingsport, TN 37664. jds@chartertn.net 10/18/01 [ October 19, 2001: Message edited by: Peternell ]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=596549159&r=0&t=0 Here you go! It's at $157 now, see where it ends. Only 70 miles away from me. Buy it and sell the heads and crank and you got a free 400 block!

$1000 for a junker 400? Geeze I must be sitting on a gold mine where. I've got 2 .030 400's that sonic checked out good. I purchased a "400 package" deal: 2 4-bolt blocks (plan to use main studs) a hurting crank, a good flexplate & balancer and one set of rods with KB 2 valve relief pistons for a whopping $80. Deals are out there just keep looking. This seller just wanted the crank and rods from one engine for a 383 project. He had plans to build a 377 with one of the blocks but lost interest. Powerhouse or Speed-O-Motive have forged long rod 400 kits for $1,200! David Vizard's book has a 400 buildup that makes 500+ HP and Torque with a "junkyard 400 block. I guess I'm gonna push the limit of a factory 400 block. keep looking, buy a 70-72 Impala 4-door or wagon and yank the engine. If the $ flows freely in your home then sure go with the best parts you can get!

Kinda like the short tail look. Looks a little like the Cheetas of the mid 60's, real long nose 327 set way back and the driver sitting nearly over the rear wheels.

First, like it was said before get the JTR (Jag tha Run) manual and go from there. Excluding the ultra high dollar conversions on this board, I've seen the numbers of $2K-$6k (running engine vs crate engine and everything new) throw out as the parts cost and some wrench wizards doing the conversion in a weekend. That's with a LOT of good planning to have all the parts in place when the swap starts. Weekend conversions gotta be 2 good people working 12 hours a day (beer breaks included) so thats 48 man hours - beer breaks and reduced productivity due to the beer breaks = about 45 minutes of actualy work. More like ? 20 shop hours @ ? $60 per = 1,200 bones. Am I close guys?? How FAST do you want to go is closer related to how MUCH are you wiling to spend. Based upon your initial statement the $ to speed connection will be much closer than for many others. I see by your a profile your a banker, so you got $ just falling out of your pockets, right? Well your shop and the speed shops my see it that way. Don't assume the most expensive parts are needed, if some is good more is not always better. Daily driver type ZV8 's on this have times from low 14 (stock 305) to mid 11's (healthy 350's/383's some with NOS) Heck there's someone from Texas that runs high 9's w/NOS and drives it one the street. Seems to be alot of daily drivers that run mid 12's and see a good deal of freeway time. Oh yet, whatever trans you get make sure it has overdrive!

Heck, its not even worth the effort to take it to the scrap yard, better just send it to me. Tell ya what I'll even pay the shipping! Truely don't know the value, but someone else here will and this post will move you back up to the top.

I'll address the which car question and leave out the differences on conversion (cause I just don't know) I like must others like a "good deal", but your only talking about a difference of $200! Also you said you "really like" the 260, but just call the ZX "nice"(but it probably has a great personality). Sounds like you want the 260. Over and over on this site its been stressed spend the money on a good rust free (or as close as you can get) car cause you'll be bucks ahead in the end. SO, what's the condition of each car? That may help make your decision. When all's said and done do you want the 2+2 or a two seater. I wanted a 67 Chevelle for about two years and passed up several deals (it wasn't easy) on other 64, 65, 66, 68 & 69 Chevelle's before I bought my current car. After dumping countless $ and hours into the project I'm SURE glad I didn't settle for another car just cause it was a deal. Finally if smog testing is an issue, several states are adopting California's rolling 25 year rule. 260 = no smog test 83 280ZX = smog test for 7 years.

More info on 408 Windsor. The 1969 or 1970 351 Windsor blocks are taller by just a tiny bit (.010) The 400 crank was turned down, not on the mains but the counterweights to clear the 351W block. The Mopar rods are 6.125", which is extra long by my Chevy standards (5.703") Mopar 318 rods are the same length as the 340 rods (I think?) and should be much cheaper and easier to find. Bad news was extra money spent on balancing due to removal of 1"+ of the counterweights

Not a Ford guy here so my info may be a little off. I have a friend would did a low budget 408 basied on a 1969 or 1970 351 Windsor block (something about thick decks in those years) This was a true hybrid with the parts he uses. A 400M crank turned down to fit the 351 mains (just like a Chevy 383) 340 Mopar rods and 327 Chevy pistons with a compression height set up for 6" inch rods and a big ole roller cam. Now they have kits with all the right parts to make the 408. With that huge 4" stroke that engine in a 67 Stang would have been trouble for my BB Chevelle, but fortunately for me he got interested in old Jeeps and never finished the project. Still got all the parts, just never assembled it, even some (Allen Roots? or something like that) motorsports aluminum heads too.

Here's a copy of part of an e-mail SW sent to me. We appreciate your interest in S&W RaceCars. If you have additional questions or would like to place an order, please call and contact one of the salesman below. 1-800-523-3353 Chad Whitenight..................ext# 18 Mike Hall........................ext# 16 Stokes Hellerman.................ext# 15 John Konnick.....................ext# 26 (evenings) Have you checked out our web site? http://www.swracecars.com

Scottie, yeah the buyer thinks he got a fair price. Some might think I paid too much, but most others (me included) would probably agree that a proven, complete, no need to hit all the local junkyards for six months straight, rearend package (driveline to disc's) was worth the price. What was the price, well lets just say that unless Scottie paid $499.99 (which is under his stated $500) and his quotes for the needed work hold true, the chances of staying under the projected $500 out of pocket expense looks good. Even with the UPS shipping cost ($200) the deal still seems pretty darn sweet to me. I now know my rear suspension is good to the low 11's (w good tires) so now I can focus on the engine and tranny. How many of us have or have had cars with way more engine than the suspension can handle? Big-old smokeee burn-off's were cool in High School but now it's all about 60 foot times Let me know when you got all the bugs worked out of this swap and in a couple of years maybe I'll need an even better rearend setup then what you just sent. The Vette IRS swap looks great, keep us all posted on the progress. Was I crazy to walk by and leave a complete Vette Limited Slip 3rd member (no half shafts or other suspension parts) at the scrap yard. Not a junk yard but scrap yard where they sell things based upon weight and material. They sell dirty aluminum for $.50 a lbs so what does a 3rd member weight 50-60lbs ($25-$30) Scottie any thoughts on making a Vette 3rd member fit in the Z car and getting half shafts made. At what point do NHRA rules prohibit IRS's? Is there a requirement for safty loops on the halfshafts? Thanks again and keep us posted on the IRS swap process [ August 27, 2001: Message edited by: Peternell ] [ August 27, 2001: Message edited by: Peternell ] [ August 27, 2001: Message edited by: Peternell ]

DrewZ, You've got mail, but in case you come here first, check this out. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=594466704&r=0&t=0 Good Luck, Later Larry (aka Peternell)