bjhines

I hangs about 3/4" below the rear valance...

I keep seeing posts that seem to differentiate between "Turbo" and supercharging... You guys have fallen victim to marketing my friends... A turbo is by definition a supercharger in fact it is formally called a turbo-supercharger... It is just the most unsuited for most 2-stroke apllications...

Updater on the fuel cell install... I am trial fitting most of the components before it goes to paint... I made a mounting frame to hold it.... 1.5" square tubing... drilled to reduce weight... Skinned.... Eared... I have used .25" insulator pads on top... the straps will get a rubber strip to protect the tank... Final fitment... ...

Ohh jeeeezus.... What a bargain... I knew Dillon was overcharging... but that is wayyyyyyy cheaper.... I'll order it to length as well...great!@!!

I need 12 more feet of the 0.60 wall 1"OD moly tubing... It could be in 2 x 6' lengths... this is for another project... Where can I find that online for less than the $150 per 20foot stick price I get locally... The plate sheet goes by the scrap pound from a local shop.. That is where I am getting lucky... Dillon Supply charges a premium for small orders of the race car tubing... I know I am getting ripped.. but I would have had to wait for other people to go in on a larger order to save a few bucks...

You are forgetting that there is a lot more steel than just the cage tubing.. there are 6 different types of tubing alone in my car... Rounds.... 3x1.5" DOM 0.95 wall @ $120 per stick (everything else) 2x1.5" DOM 1.20 wall @ $140 per stick (hoop, diagonal, rear stays) 1x1.0" MOLY 0.60 wall @ $150 per stick (removable strut braces) 1x1.0" ERW 0.80 wall @ $35 per stick (a few chassis reinforcement points) Box tubing.... one stick of 1"x3" 1.20 wall @ $60 per stick (subframe connectors) one stick of "1.5x1.5" 0.80 wall @ $50 per stick (fuel cell frame, seat frame) plate steel.... I pruchased a 24"x30" 14gauge plate @ $30 (chassis plates) I purchased a 24"x24" 3/16ths plate @ $40 (chassis plates, L-brackets) I purchased a 48"x48" 16guage plate @ $20 (strut boxing and doubler plates) I purchased a 24"x24" 20guage plate @ $10 (rust repair) Shapes... one stick of 14guage U-channel (3/4") @ $30 (sheet stiffeners) one stick of prepunched 14guage angle @ $30 (frame rails) various lengths of 1/8" flat stock and angle @ $50 total from Lowes... (whatevers) I have also purchased... a full sheet 4'x8' of 0.080 aluminum 2 sticks of 2"x3" 0.80 angle aluminum Not to mention the box of 7/16ths rod ends and the weld in threaded ends for the upper strut brace tubes... @ $150 for all... That is over $1000 in steel alone... by the time you add the aluminum and the rod ends I am into $1500!!!!! for materials alone.. Obviously I will not use all of this stock... but you have to buy complete sticks and sheets in many cases...

Make sure air is going through your radiator... baffles for the airdam and/or the original underpan are important even at slow speeds... I cut a few extra hole into the inner fender area...

I have a working 4 speed available... It will get you rolling... I will trade you for your rebuildable 5 speed... no money..

Hehehe... I have often though of putting together a thread on what it takes to do something like this... as in tools, materials, and consumables... just guessing... I figure your in it at least $800 for steel... I was lucky.. there is a shop nearby that lets me puruse thier scraps by the pound... The various grinding and cutting condumables are prolly getting towards $200 That assumes you have a wide variety of tools for working metal... I went basement hunting and yardsale hopping and found an incredible variety... lt keeps the number of bit changes down to a minimum if you have multiples of every tool... Harbor Freight Tools for things I don't use much... I had a cage builder bend all the initial tubing... I have been doing the chassis work and cutting and fitting staight sections... I will take it back to him to complete the door bars and roof diagonal... He charged $500 for the initial bends and tubing... I have purchased 2 more sticks of tubing($200) and another stick will be supplied by the cage builder for the doorbars and such with labor adding $400 more... I am on the third tank of gas($200)... I have not used up a spool of wire yet... the big spools go forever... I have had to buy about $100 of welder parts... It is a 12 year old welder though... The cage was the least of this effort... The entire chassis was seam welded and reinforced apart from the cage... that was by far the hardest part of this project... not expensive just hard... You have to remove ALL of the seam sealer... ARGHHHH!!!! I have been working on this since May this year... It is now October... I have hundreds of hours invested... not to mention the 2 years of research on this project...

I'm pretty sure that is it for front end reinforcement... probably too much... Front end pics including my brackets for my removable strut tower triangle braces... This firewall bracket is supposed to have another triangle spreading the load downward out to the sides on the lower edge... but until I work out the Ford EDIS-8 ignition sytem I may have to scrap the lower triangle all together... A completed overview... ...

I completed the front end reinforcement metalwork... I copied Jmortensen on this area... looks pretty well triangulated to me... Here is a profile shot of the front end reinforcement work... ...

I used the headliner material without the added vinyl for the floor heater doors... they close nicely... The doors were in bad shape originally... the hinges had rusted and P.O.s had obviously forced things... I had to put a good deal of effort into this part of the system... I freed them up and cleaned them before I sandblsted.. but they still had a lot of work left... I had to put a slight Z-bend in one of the door-actuating rods... I had to adjust it about 5 times to get everything working freely with both doors closing completely... I also had to bend the hinge edge of the doors a little to get them to close flat on the opening lip...

ok... the motorhome pics are funneh... a couple of observations... the motorhome is bigger than the house... and the driveway is gravel...

some more assembly of the heater housing.... flapper pads installed and functioning properly... completed exterior... ...

damn... this thread says WHALE TAIL!!! All the WAY baybeee!!!

Allison Diesel made a V-8 heavy equipment engine not too long after WWII... It was a direct injection 2 stroke with overhead valves... they have turbo and supercharged those types of engines for the last 65 years... You guys are getting too hung up on the number of operational cycles... The valvetrain is what makes or breaks forced induction suitability... Any large engine will have some sort of positively actuated valve system... those are fine with forced induction applications... THE PROBLEMS with small engines are the fact that they have NO VALVETRAIN... or they use simple reed/flapper valves that use ambient pressure to open and close them... I have a gaggle of small model airplane 2 stroke engines... they work similarly to the chainsaw and weedeater engines in your garage... The mixture is drawn into the crankcase... and then travels outside the cylinder liner to ports cut into the sides of the liner... the positioning of the ports is what determines the timing of the engine operating events. These small engines CAN BE "SUPERCHARGED" with a tuned exhaust resonator that uses divergent and convergent cones at each end to set up a standing pressure wave... the pipe is tuned to a frequency that places the lowest pressure trough right at the exhaust port the moment it opens to expel gasses... they are very peaky by design... kind of like an organ pipe plays only one note.... the engine will produce AMAZING POWER at only one speed... the tuned pipe note's speed....

I just got back from JoAnn's Fabrics in Cary... I found several grades of headliner material... PERFECT!!!!! it cost me less than 10 dollars... enough to do half a dozen Z-cars... It is headliner material... cloth/foam I added a layer of iron on vinyl sheet to it to make it as close to original as can be had... ....

Well... THIS ONLY WORKS FOR 240Zs.... the 280Z housing is DIFFERENT... I can tell you that Honda used the same blower in almost all of thier cars in the early 1990s... I asked the JY for a blower to fit a 1992 Honda Civic... but the JY told me they crossreferenced it and that particular blower came from a 199? Honda CRX... The electrical hookup is easy... Commonly available push on spade connectors fit the Hodan motor socket... I used 6" lengths of 12guage wire to extend the original 240Z harness.... there are directional marks for positive on the Honda connector... ... you can simply switch wires if you get it wrong the first time.... ----------------------------------------------------------------------- As far as paint is concerned... the system can get wet inside... 1. I sandblasted every nook and cranny... You must disassemble and remove all plastic parts FIRST... or they will disentigrate... You can remove the flapper doors from the blower housing.. but the flapper in the heater housing won't come out... 2. I used a self etching primer... but a good metal prep primer will do.. 3. I used laquer paint... black with some metal flakes to make it "different"... 4. dont even bother painting anything on the outside umtil you have shot 3 coats on the insides from every angle... that will get all of the nooks and crannies... ----------------------------------------------------------------------- I am trying to source all of the various foam seals and flapper pads.. I think a combination of stuff from a vinyl/leather store and some computer mouse pads will lead to success... ---------------------------------------------------------------------- I am having my heater core "recored" by a reputable radiator shop... ---------------------------------------------------------------------- My control cables are all bent up and gummy... I am using my original SU carby choke cables as replacement stock for my heater control cables...

I completed the blower housing.. That part is ready to bolt in... Now I am waiting on the core to come back from the radiator shop... I am blessed with a shop that knows what they are doing...

I have to replace my liner... I have been having wire feed problems at slower speeds... That might help...

EMP pulses can ruin brand new IC chips still in their protective wrappers in boxes on the shelf... All ICs are prone to static discharge which is completely different... but has a similar effect in killing the IC...

I really don't think you can do a whole lot to a piece of equipment like MS to make it more EMP resistant... You can stick it into a grounded "faraday box"... but then you would not be able to drive your car... It is alot easier to shield a bunker than a moving boject... Mobile military equipment had some pretty hard core design influences all the way down the IC chips and individual components... Mega Squirt uses off the shelf consumer electronic parts... They would have to spend tens of millions manufacturing custom MILSPEC IC chips and then go through YEARS of trials and redesigns and certifications.... Just to make one guy's EMP safe dream land come true...

well... The question seems a little out there if you asked about EMP... The military specifies EMP "hardening" for their devices... you might have come off a little on the wild side... By bringing this EMP hardening/sheilding up twice... you may have been banned by a simple misunderstanding... EMP Electromagnetic pulse... first thing that comes to mind is NUKES... there are ways to convert camera flashes into weak EMP "guns?"... HIGHLY amplified radio transmitters can be focused and used as EMP weapons... you can literally FRY electronics with an EMP... EMI/RFI are various types of weak interference... there is literally a glow of electromagnetic radiation all around us... most of it is relatively weak and only causes localized problems... like within a few inches of a device... poorly designed switches and electric motors can cause full spectrum/broad band RFI interference.. but it is still fairly localized and modern tuners can filter it out... cheap electronic transmitters are also a source of trouble... and don't forget the MICROWAVE OVEN... bad door shielding can wreak havoc in the Gigahertz range(WiFi service)... Magnets and transformers can cause inductive EMI through ferrous metal objects palced nearby... usually this only makes a buzzing sound in the cabinetry.. but it can reach out and affect other devices...

Hmm.. I wonder if there is a problem they are experiencing with interference with other devices... All I can think is that your question meant more to them that you considered... they may have some legal problems to overcome with FCC violations... You may have set off red flags with your reposting of the question... There are limits to the amount of extraneous noise that devices can emit in certain conditions... If the device could be hooked up in such a way that it causes extreme interference... they might have trouble marketing the device as a consumer product... Any reference to problems.. or solutions to existing problems... could be used against them in a situation where they claim ignorance of problems...

Sheet metal to .095gauge is a biatch... I had to use a higher setting initially to get good penetration into the tubing... then I used a much lower setting to adhere the built up bead to the sheetmetal... that seems the only way to do it... If I set it high enough to actually stick to the tubing it is way too high for the sheet metal to handle it... cleaning might help... but I have been using this technique all over the car.. even on metal that has been sanded clean... The wheelwell metal is among the thinnest on the car...