bjhines

I'm sorry.. I forgot to post a pic... ....

wow... dark hole... I guess it is not so common to use a monoball on the TC bucket... I managed to spend WAYYYY too much time searching the HybridZ forums with NO LUCK... google every time baybeeee... http://www.stockcarproducts.com/susp3.htm http://www.ubmachine.com/lowers.html http://www.boyceindustries.com/boyce-mb-monoball-assemblies.html Most of these guys are using a 3/4" monoball rated at ~20,000lbs.. It was stated here by someone that the axial loading was ~15% of the radial loading that would work out to around ~3,000lbs load rating on a monoball used axially on the end of the TC rod... does that sound right to you guys... is that safe??? EDIT: I found a FAQ on the Aurora website that states the monoball Axila loads at 20% of radial capacity... http://www.aurorabearing.com/technical-resources/faqs/default.html That would mean that the mid grade bearing I am getting would take 4000 lbs to fail... the aerospace bearings would take 7200 lbs axial loads to fail... Now to get to work on finding a suitable bearing and modifying the housing... The stock TC rod is necked down to ~1/2" from ~5/8"... That is a good place to start... assuming I can properly align the hockey stick with the new increased caster setting I should be able to use the stock TC rods... I think...

ok.. I recieved a PM from someone who knows about these... I have $$$ but I need more info... the sender has set his HybridZ account to not receive PM returns... so I would love some more info... as well as purchase info...

You guys keep in mind that some of the upper mounts... Like John C and some others will force the spring to bend... For Coffey's design the spring perch is held parallel(in the same plane) to the top of the strut tower... the mono ball at the top of the strut rod is able to swivel and flex... this means that the spring upper perch angle can be out of whack with the strut rod angle... and it changes throughout the suspension travel... This misalignment is probably too much for hte hydraulic perches to account for... If I were to fix this I would employ a hydraulic upper perch ONLY... Some of the other designs like the AZC set up use the strut rod to hold the upper spring perch in relation to the strut rod itself... The benefit of Coffey's design is that it has a lower stack height...

I have seen a few ideas using spherical bearings in the TC buckets... Ron Carter's BRE replica used something like this... where did he source those parts??? I have seen somewhere that AFCO makes a bushing replacement kit that uses spherical bearings in machined retainers... These are similar to what Design Products sells for the inner control arm mounting... http://www.designproductsracing.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=514

I never saw those perches offered in 2.5" sizes.... http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=HCP As I recall you can use one per spring... but they suggest 2 per spring... The price is redidulous... even for only 4 of them.. the price of 8 would be astounding... The prices for Penske shocks are... well... shocking... $775 typical... OUCH I found some bling bling shocks you guys might not know about... I can't read Japaneese.. and the translator does not help much... www.bils.jp CC40 model...

So that last TC design brings us back to internally threaded stock... I wonder of that design is actually using off the shelf parts... the internal threads couls be from a straight outer tie rod... anyone recognize it???? I am interested in kicking around the idea of using the stock car spherical bearings in cups for replacing bushings for the inner mount for the TC rods... Has anyone found a good parts list for that design?... That would seem to get the best positioning for the inner pivot point...

Well... I realize that ON-CAR-Adjustable is desired... but I am going the budget route... I have some 1" OD 0.065 wall DOM... I was going to use 240HOKE's idea... cut the stock arm 6" from the BJ hole... use the 1" tube and a threaded pipe end to extend the cut LCA... simply screw a 5/8" rod end and jam nut into that pipe extension... I keep looking at that idea and thinking... there is not a lot of safety margin in that design.. 1. the tube seems to be the weakest point... 2. the rod end threads are next weakest... ----------------------------------------------------------------------- The next design seems a little safer... and a little cheaper.... It just uses a cut off 5/8" grade 8 bolt and a femake rod end... you cut off the head of the bolt and insert it into the arm... collapse the top of the LCA down to capture the bolt and plug weld the shank and weld the outer perimeter... I would probably use a 3/4" bolt and use an oversize 3/4" shank rod end with a 5/8" eye... the rod ends in that configuration are rated at something like 36,000lbs tensil... ----------------------------------------------------------------------- The next design has no explanation... I assume he used internally threaded square stock with a 5/8" rod end... It looks the simplest... It just has to be strong... This is the design I would like to use... but I cannot find the internal threaded sq stock... ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 240Hoke had a great design for the TC rods... It seems simple enough... easy to find parts... the swedged rod is not cheap though... I do not like the idea that it moves the pivot point forward and outward quite a bit... The one I am really interested in is hard to figure out.... take a look and tell me what you guys think about this design... .....

Where can I find internally threaded tube, rod, hex stock...??? I want to modify my front control arms and I am having trouble sourcing internally thread stock to weld into the arms...

I agree with the funneh placement.. but that is one cool car... You can't see the front of the cooler mounting bracket in those pics... I think there is another pic of htat car I cannot find... as I recall there is a grill in front of the cooler...

Here is a pic showing the cooler mounting position some have chosen...

Hmm.. It seems like it might be hard to beat the Tilton/Mocal/Genesis designs for this purpose.... Lets think about some things... 1. The gear oil will be hot... considerably hotter than boiling water... 2. There are metal particles in the oil... granted you could filter them out... 3. There will be some foaming of the oil... some designs are better than others at pumping foam... 4. Anti drainback characteristics... considering you may not be able to mount everything at the oil level... 5. Current draw... <10amps would be nice... 6. Size, weight, and complexity considerations... the marketed Diff cooler pumps all have built in cooling fans... A pump that could be exposed to water and road debris would be nice... I think the Tilton and others need to be protected from the elements... major mounting drawback

I really don't know what pump design is best... Frank 280ZX, I even have a part number for the Nissan pump... but no one I have spoken with could ship me a pump... I doubt there are rebuild parts available, and I do not know how their pump functions... Thanks to Alan for providing these pictures in an earlier discussion... The pumps I have suggested are designed for this use... they use pistons and diaphrams with check vales to pull and push heavy fluids relatively well... they are positive displacement types(will pump air until they draw oil)... the Tilton pump is rebuildable and offers optional diaphram materials for special uses.... It is also less than $200 and shipping is minimal here in the USA...

I like it... someone here in NC just completed one of those.. his was yellow as well... Those S-30 convertables look great... but I would really be floored if someone came up with a convertable top for rain and cold... and I like the ZX idea... I would have to see one though...

ok.. I have been driving 240Zs since the late 1980s... I have run cars with good stock engines, bad stock engines, good performance engines, and half broken performance engines... Weber DGVs, DCOEs, SUs, Solex's.... They all had ONE THING IN COMMON.... >>>>>>>>>>>>>If you put low octane gas in them you will have to shoot it to kill it... You guys with L28s and low compression don't count... The L24 engines NEED HIGH OCTANE GAS... unless you want it to keep running wiht the ignition OFF... forget about power, forget about WOT detonation... high octane gas makes them behave very nicely when you turn off the ignition... Ignition timing has absolutely nothing to do with the dieseling problem... the ignition is OFF... what difference does it make... No power no ignition no relation to dieseling... I have caught gas stations in my town trying to pass off regular as premium... I know for a fact that there is a problem with the gas because it wont shut off when I turn it off... I made one station owner refund my purchase and pay to have the bad gas drained(of course I didn't actually drain it)... I took it up with my better business bureau and they really came through for me...

I'm not mad... no vitriol... I just stated that my research into this with many other sources including BMW race car fabricators have come up with many facts.. that were poo pooed here... with statements that are either incomplete or untrue.. because this has been brought up many times on this forum...

ok... special order does not mean shiat... If I need parts and pony up the duckage.. it ain't gonna happen... I have already consigned myself to purchasing a helical LSD when my LOM-59 goes south... I just hope my cooler will make it last at least 5 years...

There are 2 pumps I have seen for sale... both look the same.. the Tilton pump comes with a choice of seal types... Viton or Buena... Mocal pump http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/mocal1.htm Tilton pump with options http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=TRANSCOOL BMWs run these http://www.bimmerworld.com/html/differential-fluid-cooler.htm Viper guys get a new one ripped on price... poor SOBs http://www.viperalley.com/viperrev/showproduct.php/product/214/cat/1 Corvettes come with diff coolers from teh factory now.. good oil.... http://www.bmw325i.net/rev_redline_gear_oil.shtml Other considerations are the fact that there are going to be metal fragments in the oil... the Tilton pump is advertised as being able to handle the trash in the oil... the gear oil could become as hot as 450 degrees... so the pump must also be able to handle high temps... A few things I have seen from the old Works rally cars as well... 1. They used a temp sender and a relay to cut the pump on above 200 degrees... You should provide a kill switch for the system on the dash... 2. the pump and cooler should not be higher than the gear oil level in the differential housing... this keeps the oil level stable and solves problems with drainback overfilling the rear end and causing leaks from the pinion and side seals... it will also keep the pump primed at all times... 3. The pump should be mounted after the oil cooler to ensure it does not get too hot... 4. the oil return should be well away from the oil pickup... this will ensure that the entire diff is cooled instead of recirculating the same little puddle of oil... I think the sheet steel baffles in the finned competition cover were there to accomplish this (poorly)... 4a. I used the WORKS design and added a return hole in the top channel in front of the pinion... My oil pickup would be the drain hole... this greatly separates the pickup and return.. and it will draw heat away from the front half of the differential instead of just the rear... 5. I was told that the cooler does not have to be very big... I chose an 11 row compact Setrab cooler for mine... It is my understanding that the oil will not circulate very quickly with the commonly available pumps.. there is no need to overcool the oil in a large cooler... target temps should be in the 250-300 degree range (check your oil specs)... 6. adding a catch tank is insurance for others on the track... as always, use a catch tank with any system that uses a pump to force fluid flow... this will ensure that foaming oil does not ruin someone else's day at the track... I have posted pics of these ideas numerous times... and I have had the ideas shot down numerous times by a few experts here... I don't know what to think about some of these opinions... I see temps over 400 degrees on occasion with my little puny L-6 powered 240Z with an R-180... You are not going to convince me that my new V-8 powered 240Z is not going to need a cooler as well... It has been said to me that I will not significantly increase the life of my LSD by adding a cooler... I call bullsit on that... and the same person told me that the racers he knows running coolers rebuild their clutchpacks every few seasons... I have to call BS on this... first off WHERE THE HELL DO YOU BUY PARTS???? good friggin question... As far as I can see... you might as well buy an entire new rear end.. because parts for the LOM-59, and LOM-55 units ARE NOT AVAILABLE!!!! I am running a GD cooler... and screw the finned covers...

The middle hole in the poly mount can be used alone.. or the outside 2 holes can be used.. I actually ended up drilling for the 2 holes.. I figured it would make it easier to tighten without spinning around.

As I got into it.. I kinda figured you had some scrap 1" and 3" stock you started with... It turns out to fit very well indeed...

I edited the first post and added a lot of content.... Thanks John C. for bringing up one more use for the mount... yet another point for the cage.. and a very good way to stiffen the tunnel... POPnWood had some very good points about the fitment of this mount... thank you very much for the input... I checked fit and added info on clearance based on his points... Ron... thanks for your input!... and Thank you Pete for comming up with the highly accurate measurements... unless they are Ron's original work then Thanks Pete for making them soo easy to find!... As a side note... The mount actually REDUCES WEIGHT... at least mine does the one made of 3/16" plate weighs 4lbs 4.7oz with the poly mount installed... The original hardware weighs 4lbs 10oz ...

hehe.. I literally built mine on my welding table using the measurements only... I tried fitting it to the car after it was assembled and it was perfect... KUDOS to Ron and Pete for making good drawings with accurate measurments...

I just fit the part.. It fits my 1973 240Z just fine.. It also fits one of my 1972 240Z shells... I did not look under the other 1972 yet... granted there are a lot of differences... for instance I cannot find a correct factory tranny mount to fit my 1972 240Z built in january of 1972... It is the early spring style... where I have another 240Z built in June 1972 that has the later style tranny mount... I went through my parts bins and all of the arrestor strap harware I have has the same mounting pattern.. I know I have some stuff from 1970-71 because I have a short driveshaft and a straight rear crossmember for the pushed forward differential position.. I do not have a 1970-71 shell to make sure...

awwwwwwwww hell... fiddlesticks... dab nabit... I have a 240Z.. I have not mounted this yet... dohhhh... ohh well I'll just redrill a few holes...

Nice idea John... this was my approach to reinforcing the tunnel in the back... ...