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zguitar71

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About zguitar71

  • Birthday 05/04/1970

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    Missoula MT

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  1. zguitar71
    Yea. The adjustment screw is on the top center at the motor side of the carb. They are delicate so be careful but it is unique to OER I believe and a pretty cool thing. The float adjustment is nice too. http://www.racetep.com/tepoer.html There is a picture of it here. Better pic here http://lupinusflower.ocnk.net/product/9
  2. zguitar71
    The OER pump adjustment screw dials the amount of time the pump last. Dialing it up will make the stream of fuel pumped into the intake last longer so it might help in your case. Unless you are pressing the throttle and the taking your foot off and then it goes lean. If you are pressing it and keeping it down and it goes lean the increase in duration will keep up with the amount of time the throttle stays depressed.
  3. zguitar71
    Try adjusting the pump jet screw to give a little more pump duration. Possible that could help the lean acceleration prob from 2.3-3k. Don't know if it will work but worth a try.
  4. zguitar71
    I think of a turn as 360 degrees.
  5. zguitar71
    That's why I went withy the weber set up, there is way more fine tuning that can be done. With all the different air sized available for each diameter fuel size.
  6. zguitar71
    The mix screws on O E R carbs are not the same as weber they are a fine thread so they need to be out about 2.5 turns to be the same as the weber 1-1.5 turns. I have 55 f9 with a ported head and a bit of a cam on a 2.8 and it is still a little rich. You probably need a 55 F8 for a little more air, that is what I will be going to after winter decides to leave. O E R brand jets are a little different than the weber equivalent as far as air hole size and how they sort them. I gave up on the OER idles because they are one piece unlike the weber set up that lets you replace the jet in the housing piece. PierceManifolds.com can help you out with the OER stuff they know what weber stuff fits and does not. They are great carbs and if you are familiar with webers then the learning curve is small.
  7. zguitar71
    Oh jeez, sorry for all the post my phone is a little crazy.
  8. zguitar71
    I assumed since there are twice as miny valves in the K20 they wouldn't be any larger than intake/exhaust in an n42 valve. I could be a fool for assuming though.....
  9. zguitar71
  10. zguitar71
    How big are the valves in the K20? I assumed that they would be no bigger than or maybe even slightly smaller than an N42 since their are twice as many in the K20.
  11. zguitar71
    Go new if you can but expect 2000 or a little over when all said and done with the linkage, manifold, carbs and all the Jets and venturies to get them dialed in. You can get a good set of used out there but you might have to rebuild them. Not hard job but does add to the cost. With used you might find some perfectly jetted for your set up but the odds are not in you favor so you will probably have to spend some $ on jets ect. I have O E Rs on my car from http://www.piercemanifolds.com and they have been great. They can get the jetting and venturies very close if you give them all the motor info. Go with a set of 45mm and use small venturies if your motor is stock. As you modify your motor you can change the carb internals to match, the 45s will handle a cammed up 3.2. You will be limited with a set of 40s.
  12. zguitar71
    Here is a Kameari for $352. Pricey but good. http://www.kameariusa.com/l6-metal-headgasket/
  13. zguitar71
    http://www.kameariusa.com/l6-metal-headgasket/ Here you go
  14. zguitar71
    No problem, Sorry about the hijack.
  15. zguitar71
    Except that hey are able to operate valves around the size an L motor uses up to 9-10K rpm.
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