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zguitar71

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Everything posted by zguitar71

  1. Yea. The adjustment screw is on the top center at the motor side of the carb. They are delicate so be careful but it is unique to OER I believe and a pretty cool thing. The float adjustment is nice too. http://www.racetep.com/tepoer.html There is a picture of it here. Better pic here http://lupinusflower.ocnk.net/product/9
  2. The OER pump adjustment screw dials the amount of time the pump last. Dialing it up will make the stream of fuel pumped into the intake last longer so it might help in your case. Unless you are pressing the throttle and the taking your foot off and then it goes lean. If you are pressing it and keeping it down and it goes lean the increase in duration will keep up with the amount of time the throttle stays depressed.
  3. Try adjusting the pump jet screw to give a little more pump duration. Possible that could help the lean acceleration prob from 2.3-3k. Don't know if it will work but worth a try.
  4. That's why I went withy the weber set up, there is way more fine tuning that can be done. With all the different air sized available for each diameter fuel size.
  5. The mix screws on O E R carbs are not the same as weber they are a fine thread so they need to be out about 2.5 turns to be the same as the weber 1-1.5 turns. I have 55 f9 with a ported head and a bit of a cam on a 2.8 and it is still a little rich. You probably need a 55 F8 for a little more air, that is what I will be going to after winter decides to leave. O E R brand jets are a little different than the weber equivalent as far as air hole size and how they sort them. I gave up on the OER idles because they are one piece unlike the weber set up that lets you replace the jet in the housing piece. PierceManifolds.com can help you out with the OER stuff they know what weber stuff fits and does not. They are great carbs and if you are familiar with webers then the learning curve is small.
  6. Oh jeez, sorry for all the post my phone is a little crazy.
  7. I assumed since there are twice as miny valves in the K20 they wouldn't be any larger than intake/exhaust in an n42 valve. I could be a fool for assuming though.....
  8. How big are the valves in the K20? I assumed that they would be no bigger than or maybe even slightly smaller than an N42 since their are twice as many in the K20.
  9. Go new if you can but expect 2000 or a little over when all said and done with the linkage, manifold, carbs and all the Jets and venturies to get them dialed in. You can get a good set of used out there but you might have to rebuild them. Not hard job but does add to the cost. With used you might find some perfectly jetted for your set up but the odds are not in you favor so you will probably have to spend some $ on jets ect. I have O E Rs on my car from http://www.piercemanifolds.com and they have been great. They can get the jetting and venturies very close if you give them all the motor info. Go with a set of 45mm and use small venturies if your motor is stock. As you modify your motor you can change the carb internals to match, the 45s will handle a cammed up 3.2. You will be limited with a set of 40s.
  10. Here is a Kameari for $352. Pricey but good. http://www.kameariusa.com/l6-metal-headgasket/
  11. http://www.kameariusa.com/l6-metal-headgasket/ Here you go
  12. Except that hey are able to operate valves around the size an L motor uses up to 9-10K rpm.
  13. I've followed this thread and the throttle body thread a while back. Derek, I'm beyond impressed and think this is absolutely the beginning of a great future for Z cars. I'm not sure if this free valve technology is available currently but one day they could be just what is needed for a project like yours. It's some pretty cool stuff. http://www.freevalve.com https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=f4p-55a3WV8 Derek and Tony D I have to say thanks guys for your contributions to the Z community. Your knowledge and talent is appreciated.
  14. 45 mm webers cannot have 50 mm ventureis it would be physically impossible. The biggest they can have is 42 mm. It looks as though your torque comes on too early for a fully ported head. If the head was ported as large as possible the airflow would be too slow on the low end for that. It could very well have a port job that is appropriate for a street car. A good street port with the Robello 63di cam and a set of 45 with 39 ventureis when properly tuned will make 300 lbs of torque around 4500-4800 rpm and 320 hp from 6600-6900 rpm and have shift points from 7000-7300 rpm. A zx 5 speed in good shape is fine for a N/A stroker. Unless you are going to make big amounts of torque you will be adding unneeded weight and $ swapping to a 300 t trans. The 280zx is a direct bolt and the r200 is plenty strong too.
  15. Too much torque. If the subie had a v8, it's torque was split between 2 diffs so it would be fine in that application. The torque in your car is all for one diff. Stay with the r200.
  16. You could have the cam sprocket off by one tooth. That will cause the rpm issue you are having. I do not use the vuccum advance on mine I have it pugged off. The static timming is at 15 degrees and all in is 34.
  17. If you want to make power you will need head work, carbs and intake to match the head work, a header to match the head work and an exhaust sized to match the head work. If it is all done right you can get 100 hp per liter and still be streetable. All it takes is $. But since you have time you can learn to modify the head yourself. With lots of reading and searching and patients you can do it yourself. The pros like Rebello get the 100hp/litre but you can get up way past stock yourself. The factory motor had about 125-135 at the crank. I don't think you'll get 175 from what you are doing, maybe closer to the factory claimed 150.
  18. Here are my 2 cents. I love my 71 240. I have always had a passion for the old Ferraries like the GTO. The problem is money, like most I do not have much. So for me the closest affordable thing to the GTO is the 240z in my garage. I have put a lot of time , effort and money into the car over the 10 years I have owned it. I have stiffer springs and adjustable shocks, an L28 with flat tops and 10:7 comp, a ported/polished cammed head, triple 45s, a zx 5 speed, a 4:44 lsd, ect.... In the end the car is potent enough to get in a lot of trouble on the street and works well on an auto cross course. Bigger better brakes will be the next step for a little road course time. Like the old Ferraries my z is raw and lightweight, smells old in a way newer cars will never smell, takes time and patients and is very rewarding to drive. So go out and get yourself a Japanese Ferrari.
  19. No it's the pacesetter, I had to have my collector cut and welded back at a better angle to give more room for the bell housing. I did not get much more room but I can get the trans out with out removing the header. I had the same problem with the spacers that came with it too. I had to cut a little step in each one to get them to sit flat, other wise I could not get a good seal on the intake manifold or the header. I would like a better manifold too but I'm stuck for now.
  20. Hey Onion, Sorry about being jerky with my response. After reading it I realize I sounded like an a-hole. No reason to be like that. The springs should be fine your not hitting the bump stops. If you add stickier tires you might start doing that and need stiffer springs. If you are hitting and like the handling then stay with what you have.
  21. Onion. Like The Onion the comical faux news. Is this a trick question? Those are coil springs, not coil overs, on stock perches.
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