johnc
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Posts posted by johnc
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You most likely have surface rust or corrosion on the clutch plates, Swap out the rear diff fluid to Motul 90PA and add two bottles of friction modifier. Find a large parking lot and drive in a fiver 8 for about 5 minutes.
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The old guys are concerned with performance. The young guys are concerned with style.
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Lowering the car more then 2" requires cutting the strut tubes on s street driven car so that's about the most lowering you'll get. You will also need to make sure your bump stops are in good shape.
There's a thread in the FAQs that talks about fitting Tokico 280Z springs in a s 240Z. There's math in there that will help you calculate how many coils to cut for your springs. Cutting a 1/4 coil at a time is silly. You'll spend all weekend on one corner.
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Check SPD or Burns for an aluminum taper from 2.25 to 3.5. They usually sell them in 7, 12, 14, and 18 degree.
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Your welds have insufficient gas shielding (ashen or gray beads), too much heat, and you are not running a back purge (or not enough) and you're getting carbides (sugaring) on the inside of the tubes. They will fail through cracking fairly quickly.
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I really, really hope your progress pics are showing the prototype which is being built just to test the fitment. Those welds will fail very quickly.
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Loosen the front and rear lower control arm mounting bolts and put the car on the ground. Bounce it up and down and roll it back a forth. Then tighten the lower control arm mounting bolts to spec while the car is on the ground.
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Your car is fine.
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Cool! Yes it sounds like the clutch packs in the diff.
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Well, with the halfshafts the axles were the shortest on the driver's side at full compression with a R200 install. That induces the bind issue I've been talking about for 10 years. The halfshafts are longer in droop. I have never seen the rear suspension droop limited by either halfshafts or CV shafts.
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Raise the car until the rear lower control arms are pointing down and you can feel the shaft play mentioned above on both CV shafts. Do a test drive. If the noise goes away the problem is CV shaft binding most likely on the driver's side. You will have to shorten the shaft or run your car at a higher ride height.
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OK. I was talking with Stan when he was building the rear window and I though he got it wrong. Those straps are there to keep the rear window from blowing OUT of the car. At speed going straight with the windows down there's a low pressure area inside the car. If you get the car sideways there's a sudden increase to high pressure and the straps keep the window from blowing out and breaking. You can also see a spike in interior pressure from a passing car.
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By the rules, those rear window supports need to be on the outside of the car. Did Stan put them on the inside?
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That should be fine.
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Me, Tony D, Ian, Erik Messley, and Bryan Lampe have all looked at hundreds of S30 Halfshafts over the decades and never found a length difference. Yes, the left Halfshaft in a R200 install has to shorten noticeably more because of the asymmetry of the R200, but at a stock ride height 280Z it's not an issue. It can become an issue in a lowered 240z and I wrote up something about it 8 or 9 years ago.
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Focus on wheel rate, not spring rate
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Left and right are the same compressed and extended length for the R180 and the R300.
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I would just swap the front springs.
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For your use the 8kg spring doesn't get you anything, 6kg is about as much as I would run on a 240z without chassis reinforcement. Shocks must also have enough rebound control. Nothing sold by Tokico, Monroe, KYB, etc. will work.
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The 280 install requires some additional fab work as you have found out. Keep the BS rails straight and add in some sheet metal patches. No Ned for heavy angle iron, 12 ga sheet is plenty thick enough.
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And your picture above shows the car is to low in front, raise it, add a bumpsteer spacer, or relocate the inner LCA mounting point. Also, you ARB end link bolt is in upside down and trim the tie Rod End cotter pin or you'll scratch the shIt out of your hands. And you've tightened down the end links too much. Don't squish the bushings. Just snug it down.
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FYI... You are not going to get the alignment right the first time. You have to do a few test sessions and take tire temps to find out what's right for you and your car. You will also adjust the alignment between sessions to better suit the track and the conditions. That's normal. I suggest you have a marked setting for the street alignment only.
And for toe adjustment, you don't mark anything, you count turns.
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I would run a converter - the torque multiplication helps. Make sure its a full manual valve body. I autocrossed a Corvette with an auto and the valve body would hold the gear on upshifts but it would downshift if it thought it was needed. That led to a lot of lurid slides when the transmission downshifted at a corner apex while I was squeezing on the throttle.
Is there any difference between 240 and 280 struts
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
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Struts are the metal tube and casting that are suspension locating members. Shocks are the hydraulic damping units that fit inside the strut tube.