johnc

1. Get a good alignment! 2. Get a good alignment! 3. Get a good alignment! 4. Replace any defective shocks. 5. Replace the tires.

What I did was spend thousands of dollars at Sunbelt and had them build me probably the best N42 out there.

Whatever the insert, it can't be any stronger then the yield strength of the metal the insert is installed in. Now, it "might" be "stronger" because it grabs a little bit more of the parent metal becuase of a slightly large OD, but so much depends on the quality of the insert, how it was installed, and how much parent metal was lost int he hole enlargement that I don't think the OD difference matters.

That be the stuff and I DID lose the 3rd gear synchro. It might have been worn already and the RP on a 105 degree day in Phoenix was the last straw. - John

People can put together words to come up with whatever terms they want (isn't that how the German language works?) As far as loads are concerned there are just a few basic ones: Static Dymanic (interetia) Internal Resistance (pressure) Shear Torsion Tension Compresion Screw threads are ramps and ramps generate shear. The wrench on the end of the bolt generates torsion. I separate those two in my mind because if the threads are removed you can still generate torsion with the wrench. But, I'm not an engineer so maybe I've got it wrong.

Although I might be mistaken, I think you have to get at both ends of a fastener to measure stretch. Easy for rod bolts, hard for cylinder head bolts.

No such thing as "torsional shear." Torsion load comes from the wrench and shear is the frictional resistance to the torsion load. If the fastener bottoms in a hole before the bearing surface engages the work face while you're still turning the wrench, you'll still have a torsion load even though the shear load is minimal.

When tightening a fastener, the fastener is subject to two types of stress: tension and shear. Tension Tension stress comes from the stretching of the fastener after the bearing face has contacted the work face. This is the most important stress and is what keeps the parts together, keeps the fastener from loosening, and keeps the fastener from failing in use. Tension stress remains in the fastener the entire time its fastened. Shear Shear stress comes from installing the fastener. It is caused by the friction of the threads and the friction of the bearing surface when it contacts the work face. Shear stress drops to zero the instant tightening stops but reachs a very high value just before tightening stops. Shear stress makes it difficult to impart the correct amount of tension stress in the fastener because shear stress affects torque readings. On a dry fastener, about 50% of the torque applied comes from the friction between the bearing surface and the work face, 40% from the thread friction, and only about 10% of the torque is actually used to apply tension. The single biggest reduction in shear stress is the proper use of thread lubricants (anti-sieze). It reduces the amount of torque needed to achieve the desired level of tension stress in the fastener. The seconds best way to reduce the effects of shear stress is to tighten the faster in several steps.

Jeez, I need to go through this whole dang thread. Your machine shop techer is wrong; an insert that depends on the strength of the parent metal to remain in place is not any stronger then the parent metal itself.

You really think that?

The outer stub axles are determined by the chassis, not the car. 240/260 stub axles are the same. 280 stub axles are a bit stronger.

Bully Beef and Blood Pudding for everyone! What a mess. I guess the FDA didn't get the memo regarding hurricane relief.

Always remember, the Marine, the Army Private, the National Guard Corporal, etc. that is fighting in Iraq today, may be the same person that rescues your family during a disaster tomorrow: http://www.donaldsensing.com/index.php/2005/09/15/report-from-katrina-relief/

Dontaing money to help some new Marine recruits party in Vegas is political? You're kidding right? Or are you just trying to turn this into something political?

From Hugh Hewitt: http://hughhewitt.com/archives/2005/09/11-week/index.php#a000253 I sent 'em some gambling money.

Be careful with synthetic. I tried some and lost the 3rd gear synchro in one day of racing at PIR. Stick with a good regular GL4 75/90 (Chevron Delo, Swepco 201).

I just do what the FSM says to do. There's also a washer and nut/bolt stretch to take into account and the FSM calls the 3.9 inch lb. setting "bearing preload." BTW... 3.9 inch lbs. isn't very much. I actually have to borrow a neighbor's digital inch lb. torque wrench and set it to 10 inch lbs. - I'm a little over spec. Someone also said to use a fishing scale and hook it to a wheel stud. If it takes a 1/8 pound to pull it, then the setting is supposedly correct.

Ask Owen about his Craftsman 110v MIG welder...

You can do it that way, but the FSM way is: 1. Assemble and torque down to the minimum specified torque (181 ft. lb.) 2. Check wheel bearing preload (3.9 inch lb.) 3. Tighten or loosen the wheel bearing lock nut until the specified preload is reached. The last set I did required 220 ft. lbs on one axle and 192 ft. lbs. on the other.

Sorry, that stub axle is junk. The threads that count are pulled up if you look closely enough. It appears to have been overtorqued when last installed.

Reality sucks...

A good 110v welder will do anything you need done in steel on an automobile. I weld for a living and I had a Miller 135 110v that I ddin't think I would need anymore. I sold it to Tim240z. A month later I needed a 110v welder do do some exhaust work at the track for a customer. On the way to the track I stopped at a welding supply place and bought a Lincoln 135sp plus. Both are very good welders when you use a gas bottle.

Ya buldin' a stagecoach pahtnah?

OK, I'll go through it: One welding process is not "stronger" then the other. A proper MIG weld is equal in strength to a proper TIG weld. Assuming perfect preparation and welder skill, weld strength comes from the base material and filler. I agree you have better control of heat input and filler deposition with the TIG process. Its a nice welder. That's also true of just any welding process but its a horrible practice. Like anything else in life, proper preparation is key to getting good results. If you weld over paint, dirt, and oil you will have paint, dirt, and oil in the weld bead. Remember, you're shielding the weld area with Argon gas to keep Oxygen, Nitrogen, and Hydrogen from contaminating the weld and making it brittle. By welding over oil you've just varpoized a Hydrocarbon right into your weld puddle. Ever heard of Hydrogen Embrittlement? If you are TIG welding correctly you shouldn't be getting any burn through. But, even with some burn through I agree that correcting it is fairly easy. And you've just created a contaminated weld. The TIG welding process tends to bring weld impurities to the surface of the weld and filler material selection (especially ER70S-6) increases that cleaning process. Welding a second time over an existing TIG weld drives those impuries back into the weld. And you created a weld full of impurities plus you just killed any corrosion resistance in the weld and the HAZ on each side. The weld bead itself also has a lower tensile strength then the two parant metals you stuck together. What about impurities? Stuff that's in the weld that isn't metal? Clean, clean, clean, clean is critical to a good weld. Anything that's in the weld bead that is not metal, reduces the strength of the weld. You can weld 4340 CroMo steel with an ER110S-2 filler and, if everything goes well, you'll have a weld joint that reaches 110Ksi in strength. But, any impurities, any porosity, any undercut, any excess hydrogen, etc. and the weld strength drops - often by a lot.

Make sure there's documentation to back up the stroker claim. I've looked at more then a few 3.1s and 3.2s that were really just L28s. If there's no documentation then you'll have to pull the head and check bore and stroke.