johnc

The most difficult part of installing an aftermarket harness is hooking up the multi-function switched on the steering column. Remember, on the Datsun harness, the switches are all on the ground side of the circuit (the switch, when turned on, completes the ground). The Painless and Ron Francis kits all assume the switches are on the power side of the circuit (when the switch is turned on power flows to the item being switched and then out to ground). I roughed it out at one time on my early 1970 switches: Yellow 5 Wire Plug Green/Red Wire - left turn signal Green/Yellow Wire - stop light (switch) Green/Black Wire - right turn signal White/Black Wire - stop light (rear tailight assembly) White/Red Wire - stop light (rear tailight assembly) White 3 Wire Plug Red/Yellow Wire - ? Red/Black Wire - headlights (low beam) Red/White Wire - headlights (high beam) White 6 Wire Plug Yellow/Green Wire - wipers Yellow/Black Wire - wipers Blue/Red Wire - windshield washer Green/White Wire - tail and parking lights Green/Blue Wire - tail and parking lights Red/Blue Wire - wipers (high speed) Separate Wires Blue/White Wire - windshield washer Black - common ground Green - power to the turn signal switch That's all I have from my notes. I ended up experimenting with my Ron Francis kit until I got all the stuff working properly but it looks like I didn't write the final results down.

Spent a lot of time searching this site. A number of things you mention above are not necessary for the S30 chassis and most likely they are not needed for the S13 either. Just because someone makes and sells something doesn't mean it provides any benefit.

"Shock Absorber" and "Damper" are the same thing with Damper being the more correct term. Dampers do exactly that, they dampen the energy stored in the springs when springs are doing their job absorbing shocks and supporting the chassis of the vehicle. If the large amount of energy stored in a spring is not controlled, the spring will oscillate causing dangerous handling traits. A Damper converts this stored energy into heat by moving a piston(s) through hydraulic fluid. Dampers work in two directions: "Bump" or "Compression" - when the damper is compressed as the result of a wheel hitting a bump or the car rolling onto the damper in a turn (the outside of the car in a turn). "Rebound" - when the damper extends after the wheel passes over a bump or as the result of the car rolling away from the damper in a turn (the inside of the car in the turn). Inside the damper valves on the piston(s) control the rate of flow of hydraulic fluid thus controlling the rate at which the damper compresses or extends. This valving is speed sensitive so a fast impact triggers special blow-off valves that allow the damper to compress quickly while slow speed changes (like those encountered while the chassis is rolling in a turn) are more restricted. More sophisticated shocks allow adjustment of the valving through disassembly and changing shims and fine tuning of the valving can often be done through external adjusting controls. The rate of flow as it relates to speed can be plotted on a chart and usually assumes some type of curve. Damper dynos exist to measure and diagram the damping curves. These curves can be progressive (most common) or digressive (better but more expensive and rarer). Typical external adjustments are: Single Adjustable, Bump and Rebound - Both bump and rebound valving are adjusted simultaneously along a set curve. The Tokico Illumina 5 way adjustable damper is an example of this type. Single Adjustable, Rebound - Only Rebound valving is adjusted. The Koni 8610 is an example of this type. Double Adjustable, Bump and Rebound - Bump and Rebound valving have their own adjustment. The Koni 8611 and Ground Control's Advance Design are two examples of this type. Triple and Quadruple Adjustable - Low and High Speed Bump and Low and High Speed Rebound valving are adjustable on these very sophisticated race only dampers. Penske and Ohlins are two examples of these types of dampers. How do Bump and Rebound settings affect handling: BUMP Too much Bump control makes the car harsh riding and changes in attitude are very sudden (snap oversteer, skating, sliding). Chassis roll is slow to develop and make cause the car to skate in corners. Too little Bump control makes the car seem sluggish. The car pitches a lot and rolls to the oputside of a corner very quickly. It feels like its falling over on its outside front on corner entry and outside rear on corner exit. REBOUND Too much Rebound and the tires don't return to the ground quick enough. Inside tires tend to get lifted. Over a bumpy track the car may actually jack down. Braking will be skittish. Too little rebound and the car oscillates after bumps. The car will not put power down well and transient response will be slow.

Just say some pictures of part of the Superdome roof peeling off in the wind. Hope those folks taking shelter in there are ok. Hang in there gulf coast folks!

Sorry, a little late to the thread. Yes, I used JB weld to fix a crack on a cylinder head but it was in a non-performance application and I just needed to seal a water passage at the head/block surface. Cast iron is weldable and I've successfully welded a couple cast iron heads for customers when they got too enthusiastic with a Dremel. I would not weld up a head with cracks in the combustion chamber or at the valve seat.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_brakebiasandperformance.shtml

Instead of re-typing whats been posted on the Web for years: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_brakefluid_1a.shtml Here's a comparison of various racing brake fluids: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_brakefluidcomparison.shtml Brake Fluid Comparison

And, for you drag racers and autocrossers, the stock Z brakes are lighter then anything else you can put on the car!

The broad definition of "coilovers" are a shock or strut inside a coil spring sharing a common top or bottom mount. The stock 240/260/280Z front and rear suspensions have coilover spring/strut combinations in front and rear. A more common definition is: Coilovers consist of a threaded aluminum collar, a stop (some kind of ring of metal) for the collar to rest on, a threaded perch that rides on this collar (and incorporates some kind of locking mechanism), a spring that sits on the perch (typically 2.5 inch diameter and anywhere between 6 and 12 inches long), and an upper hat for the spring. In addition, threaded body shocks (like Penskes, Carrerras, etc.) eliminate the stop and collar by having the shock body itself threaded. You install coilovers by removing the strut from the car and the strut cartridge from the strut tube. Then cutoff the stock spring perch and grinding the weld smooth. Then the rest ring is slid down over the strut tube and positioned 5.25 inches above the bottom of the tube (where it is joined to the cast spindle part of the tube). The ring gets welded to the tube, collar slid on top of that. Then the cartridge is re-installed, followed by the new spring, topped by the hat. Re-install the strut. There are advantages to coilovers: 1. The 2.5 inch diameter springs are relatively inexpensive and are available in a wide variety of lengths and spring rates. 2. The ride height can be adjusted very easily. 3. The narrower spring will allow for a wider Wheel/Tire combo. And there are disadvantages: 1. Increased noise from the springs occaisionally contacting the strut tube or threaded collar and from the metal to metal contact of the spring and the spring perches. 2. Extra effort when lowering the car from a jack or lift to ensure the spring is properly seated in the upper spring perch. 3. Changes in ride height if the adjustable lower spring perches are not snugged down properly.

WHY From Wayne Burstein: HOW TO: The most current version of my how-to is always here: http://www.betamotorsports.com/benchracing/StrutSectioning.html The text is copied and pasted below: SECTIONING DATSUN 240Z STRUTS For Koni 8610-1437RACE Inserts General Remove stock lower spring perch from all the struts and remove the brake line brackets from the front struts. Use a cutoff wheel to remove all the spring perches and brackets above the welds and then grind the welds off the strut tube. Get it smooth but be careful not to grind off too much of the tube itself and thin it. Front From the dished bottom center of the strut to the top lip the overall length should be between 12.875" and 12.938", measured from the inside using a tape measure. The threaded collar weld-on ring height (assuming 10" tall springs and 5" tall threaded collars) measured from the top of the spindle casting (opposite spindle) is 5.250". The strut tube is cut at about 6.5" up from the top of the spindle casting to put the welded section under the threaded collar. From 1 to 2" is cut from the bottom of the top half of the strut tube but you must measure first to be sure of the exact length as specified above. The most important measurement is the overall length of the strut tube (12.875" to 12.938"). Rear From the dished bottom center of the strut to the top lip the overall length should be between 14.938" and 15", measured from the inside using a tape measure. The threaded collar weld-on ring height (assuming 10" tall springs and 5" tall threaded collars) measured from the top of the hub casting (opposite hub) is 7.250". The strut tube is cut at 8.5" up from the top of the spindle casting to put the welded section under the threaded collar. From 1 to 2" is cut from the bottom of the top half of the strut tube but measure first to be sure of the exact length as specified above. The most important measurement is the overall length of the strut tube (14.938" to 15"). Process Preparation The Koni 8610 inserts are a very tight fit inside the strut tube. The inserts typically have an OD of 1.725 and the strut tubes typically have an ID of 1.730. All cuts must be precise and perpendicular to the strut tube centerline. Use a lathe or a tubing/pipe cutter. Bevel both cut edges at 45 to 60 degrees leaving a flat of .030 to .060 at the bottom of each bevel. This bevel is important to ensure proper weld penetration. Physically remove all paint and chemically clean (with Acetone) 3" to either side of the weld area. The strut tubes must be clamped into a large piece of angle and a tube (simulating the insert) of 1.720 diameter and 18" in length should be inserted into the assembly to help ensure straightness. Its critically important that the strut tubes are welded square. Welding the Strut Tubes Tack weld the assembly in at least 6 places making sure the inserted tube still slides in and out easily. After tack welding, alternate 1" beads back-stepping around the circumference. Make sure no weld bead extends inside the strut tube and frequently check to be sure the inserted tube moves easily. Be careful not to weld the inserted tube to the strut tube. You'll also need to lightly grind down he weld to allow the threaded collar to slide over it. Weld-on Rings Fabricate the lower threaded collar weld-on ring from 2" schedule 40 plumbing pipe (2" pipe nipple 6 or 12" long). Cut four .75" rings from the pipe and slide over the strut tube. They should fit over the tube but if not, cut a slot in the ring. A gap in the ring supporting the threaded collar is not an issue. Slide the threaded collar weld-on ring over the strut and tack weld it to the strut tube on the underside of the perch. This tack weld should be on the back of the strut with the top of the perch 5.250" from the top of the spindle casting on the fronts and 7.250" from the top of the hub casting for the rears. Measure down from the top of the strut tube to 3 places on the top of the weld-on ring. Make sure the ring is perpendicular to the strut tube. Tap the ring into position with a hammer before adding 3 more tack welds. After tack welding, alternate 1" beads back-stepping around the circumference on the underside of the ring. Insert Installation Try installing the inserts into each strut tube. They should slide all the way in with nothing more then a light push. Most likely they won't. Using any or all of the following, clean out and open up the ID of the strut tube: 36 grit 1.750" diameter flap sander 36 grit 1.5" diameter drum sander Christmas tree shaped carbide bit 1.735" diameter reamer 1.750" diameter wire wheel You can also sand the paint off the Koni insert and you will probably have to slightly grid down the weld at the bottom of the insert. When you can easily slide the insert into the strut all the way to the bottom, make two spacers for the rear struts that are approximately 1 to 2" tall and 1.5" in diameter out of .120 wall steel or aluminum (6061 T6) tube. Drop in and center these in the bottom of the rear strut tubes and install the inserts. Measure to make sure the inserts sit at the correct height. You'll probably have to shave a bit off the spacers. Once the spacers are correct, pour a little synthetic oil into the tube, install the spacers and the inserts, tighten the gland nut down, and torque to spec. The Koni gland nut for the 240Z strut tubes and 8610 inserts is part number 73.25.01.003.1 (M48 x 1.5p). For 280Z strut tubes (which are physically larger in OD and wall thickness) the Koni gland nut part nubmer is: 73.25.01.007.1 (M51 x 1.5p). You can get these from Truechoice but be sure to give them the part numbers. You will need a wrench for the Koni gland nut and spring perch. Both can be sourced from McMaster-Carr with the gland nut as part number 5480A13 (1.5" span, 7/32" pins, 5.5" long). The spring perch wrench style will depend on what type of adjustable lower spring perch you bought with your coil over kit. Tokico Ilumina BZ3099 and BZ3015 Inserts General Basically all the steps are the same except for the measurements and the tightness of fit of the Tokico inserts in the 240Z strut tubes. The Tokicos are a little smaller OD then the Konis and slide in easy. Front From the dished bottom center of the strut to the top lip the overall length should be between 13.375" and 13.500", measured from the inside using a tape measure. The perch height (assuming 10" tall springs and 5" tall threaded collars) measured from the top of the spindle casting (opposite spindle) is 5.250". The strut tube is cut at about 6.5" up from the top of the spindle casting to put the welded section under the threaded collar. From 1 to 2" is cut from the bottom of the top half of the strut tube but you must measure first to be sure of the exact length as specified above. The most important measurement is the overall length of the strut tube (13.375" to 13.500"). Rear From the dished bottom center of the strut to the top lip the overall length should be between 14.938" and 15", measured from the inside using a tape measure. The perch height (assuming 10" tall springs and 5" tall threaded collars) measured from the top of the hub casting (opposite hub) is 7.250". The strut tube is cut at 8.5" up from the top of the spindle casting to put the welded section under the threaded collar. From 1 to 2" is cut from the bottom of the top half of the strut tube but you must measure first to be sure of the exact length as specified above. The most important measurement is the overall length of the strut tube (14.938" to 15"). The rest of the process is that same as for the Koni inserts and Tokico includes the gland nut for their shocks. They are hex shaped so a large adjustable wrench (or gland packing nut wrench) is needed for installation. MORE PROCESS TIPS from pparaska (Pete): ADDITIONAL THINKING REGARDING STRUT LENGTH AND THREADED TUBE PLACEMENT from blueovalz (Terry):

Is the mechanical advance mechanism still in your distributor?

I mentioned that to a friend of mine who's a San Bernardino County Sheriff and he said, "Yup, they cook in the RV and then drive around and make their sales." He said that I wouldn't want my camper found after it was used as a meth lab.

Good news, just got off the phone with my agent and it looks like insurance will cover the theft. I have to give him a bunch of credit because he really went to bat for me with the insurance company. I guess a camper is one of those things that regular insurance companies have little experience with it. My agent and myself had to spend a lot of time explaining to the claims people exactly what the camper was and how I used it. Ultimately they decided that: 1. I only used it when I put it on the truck and took it somewhere, 2. It had physical and electrical connections to the truck, 3. There were physical modifications to the truck to allow carrying the camper, 4. It was designed by the manufacturer to be carried by the truck, 5. I had just finished using it with the truck and was planning on using it again very soon... ...that it was covered under my auto insurance policy. But, I haven't got the money yet and in fact we haven't even discussed the dollar amount.

Nope, its basically just a parking lot with a chain link fence around it.

My setup is irrelevant because it was caused by a touch of madness and a fat wallet. There are basically two schools of thought regarding the 240Z suspension, East Coast and West Coast. East Coast tends to run most of the roll stiffness up front (big front springs, big front anti-roll bars) with a softer rear to apply power. A lot that might come from their smoother and faster tracks. West Coast tends to balance roll stiffness with close to equal size springs and medium front and small to medium rear anti-roll bars. Both setups work, although the East Coast setup tends to push in tighter corners. Since an autocross is all tight corners (compared to a road course) I would run a West Coast setup but try to keep the rear as soft in roll as I could without inducing understeer in front. FYI... Bryan Lampe, a local ITS champion and a West Coast setup proponent, ran a VARA vintage event at Willow Springs a couple months ago. He experimented by removing his rear anti-roll bar on his ITS 240Z (that he had just sold) and ran a second per lap faster then he had ever run at WSIR before. He said the car pushed in 3, 4, and 5 but being able to put the power down earlier in 9 and 2 helped his lap times.

Nope, you're closer then you think. Its all about putting power to the ground from mid-corner to corner exit - amazing what a Quaife can do if the suspension is designed to work with it.

Correct. The halfshafts in the 240/260/280Z were designed for the expected torque loadings of the 2.4L and 2.6L engines. There was enough designed in strength to handle the 2.8L engines. Once power went up with the turbo engines Nissan redesigned the halfshafts to increase the strength and they went a step further by specifying CVs to reduce vibration. CVs product less vibration then u-joints and work at higher angles of deflection. In the turbo CV halfshafts they are stronger then the u-jointed halfshafts because Nissan designed them to be stronger, not as an inherent function of the CVs themselves.

Ran only u-joints for years in the Rusty Old Datsun - 320hp, 275ft. lbs. - on autocross courses and race tracks all over California, Nevada, and Arizona. Never, ever had a problem with them. More reliable because there are no boots or grease to worry about and much easier to rebuild. Don't know where the power difference came from but it most likely wasn't an actual horsepower increase, just a reduction in weight and MOI.

Search, search, search.

OK, look at the loadings: 1. Forward torque load from acceleration in 4th. 2. Reverse torque load when clutch is depressed. 3. Shock forward torque load from speed shift. There were two torque reversals while the halfshaft was spining at around 2,000 rpm and the second was a shock load. It doesn't matter that the reverse torque load was less the the forward torque load, what matters is that the reversal occurred and then you shock loaded the halfshaft. In a sense the u-joint "wound up" before it had to apply the forward load and that's what made it fail. And, BTW, U-joints are generally stronger then CV joints as long as the angles are kept to a minimum. In high horsepower Viper race applications (GTS-R) they replace the CV joints with u-joints and pickup reliability and about 45 horsepower on the chassis dyno.

The last time I used the camper was 4th of July and I put it back in the storage lot on 7/15. Went back last week to get my car trailer and the camper was missing. Insurance is a big question right now. Its specifically excluded from my Townhome policy (but was included in my Homeowner's policy when I bought the camper back in 2002) and because it wasn't on the truck, State Farm is saying it isn't covered under my auto policy. The agent said I needed an "Inland Marine" rider on my Townhome policy to cover the camper when it was dis-mounted. Like I'm supposed to know that...

The lowest I've seen is 0 horsepower after holes were burned in the pistons. What a dumb question...

FYI... I ran 10" wide wheels front and rear with a 5.5" backspace. I was also running 2.250" OD coil overs so with 2.5" OD coil overs 5.25" backspace will work. Regarding wheels, you can get anything custom made through Kodiak, Kiezer, Jongbloed, CCW, and Bogart.

Probably a couple things contributed to the failure: 1. High half-shaft rpms. 2. Quick and sharp torque reversal (deceleration to acceleration). 3. Heat (from the high rpms). 4. Maybe an ill timed bump in the road.

No, its sounds like you were doing all that you could to break something in the driveline. Congratulations, you succeeded.