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johnc

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Posts posted by johnc

  1. What do you mean by "giving more options?"  You're can go out and source whatever shock you want and with proper fabrication you can adaprt that shock to the stock strut tubes or fabricate new struts tubes.  I was able to (actually paid a Penske distributor) adapt Penske 8760 triple adjsutable shocks to my racing S30.  You can do the same with Ohlins, Moton, etc.

     

    If you're asking a vendor to develop more options - show them the money.  In my experience, very few Datsun guys will spnd more the $1,000 on shock and struts for their cars and I've problably sold to 75% of that market in the last 12 years.

  2. Correct info about John  Caldwell although he still builds various engines from time-to-time.  Before he closed shop in Vista a few years ago I was in there picking up a Viper engine for Erik at EMI Racing.  There were half-a-dozen L6 blocks and heads on shelves.  I asked John about them and he said, "Spares" and they are already spoken for.

  3. Knowledge is worth money.  Anyone willing to pay the experts for thier time?  Not in the Datsun world.  I flew to Georgia in 2000 and sat down with Jim Thompson for a couple hours, bought him lunch, a beer or two at happy hour, and gave him $100  to get his thoughts on a well built NA 3L engine.  He said that I was the first and only Datsun guy to compensate him for his time answering questions.  I still am.

     

    All of this knowledge was won with hard work, time, and money on the part of the folks that currently hold that knowledge.  Its worth something.

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  4. Triple SUs can work if they dump into a plenum before going into the intake runners.  Jaguar is one example of that working.  But individual runner triples have the firing order issue listed above.  Its been tried many, many times.

  5. You think this would still be detrimental?

     

    Most likely.  You're focusing the load on the small stich welds which can start a tear in the chassis sheet metal.  A welded in plate needs to have a larger surface area and should be welded all around to spread the load.  The plates on the bolt-in roll bars I've seen are really too small to be welded in.  You can weld a larger plate to the chassis and then weld the bolt-in roll bar plate to that.

  6. IMHO, bolt in roll bars/cages do more damage to a chassis then a properly welded in bar/cage. You're drilling 3/8" holes completely through the car in 8 to 16 places for a roll bar - those holes will be there forever even after the bar is removed.

     

    Adding a few welds the the bolted in mounting plates will make things worse because 1) you can't properly prepare the surfaces for welding without removing the bar to clean underneath, 2) bolted in bars rely on spreading the load to the material sandwiched between the mounting plates and welding will probably concentrate the load at the few welds - causing tearing.

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