johnc
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Posts posted by johnc
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Swap the springs front to back and keep the rear bar hooked up for now. You want the car to feel loose mid corner and on corner exit. These cars are steered with the throttle at the limit. From your posts it appears you haven't got it sideways, much less spun. These cars handle best with the back end out a bit it a four wheel drift. I suggest you get used to that knife edge feeling because its the fast way around a track.
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I tend to prefer more rebound and less compression then the math indicates. So when say a shock is good to some spring rate that's what mean. The math may say more but for the bumpy tracks here on the west coast I prefer more compliance and more platform.
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If the TC rod bucket is bent it's most likely front a wreck or a hard curb hit.
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That's a great pic! No deformation of the passenger cell and it looks like the doors will still open and close.
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There's only so much room for a cage. To get more room you will have to cut out the stock seat mounts and make new ones at floor level. Removing the seat sliders wi also give you another inch. And remember, even with padding, the door hoops will turn a minor accident into a concussion.
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I went to the 3099s all a round even in stock length strut tubes. They have enough travel, have a 15mm upper mount that fits in the normal COM10 spherical bearing in all the camber plates that fit the S30, and have a better curve then then the 3015/16 for springs over 200 lb. in.
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FYI... Bret Norgard, who used to be one of the engineers at Bilstien Motorsports, has gone out on his own. He's built a few custom setups for Datsuns:
https://m.facebook.com/YAWSPORT?id=130358890313000&refsrc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F&_rdr
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Could be. Last set I had done was 18 months ago.
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With proper fit up and slight bevel you should be able to weld the cage in with a 110 MIG welder. Turn it up all the way and take your time. Practice a lot on the bench with scrap tubing and plate.
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The P30-0032 are about the only available perfoance option now and they are good to 250 lb. in. and may a little more. They can be easily revalued by Bilstien in Poway, CA for $60 each. The hard part is getting the correct gland nut. The P30 is an inverted shock and require its own specific gland nut. The ones shipped with the shock won't work on the S30 strut tube without some fab.
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Start with the stock valve lash settings and adjust by how it sounds, runs.
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That's some pretty poor welding on the roll cage attachment to the strut tower.
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I've done two for customers. The cars were not complete when they left (no interiors except for driver's seat and dash) but most everything else was there. One was 2,610 when done and the other was 2,655. Both were early model year 1972s. I estimate they gained about 300 lbs. from the RB swap which included a R200, CVs, 17" wheels, 4 wheel disc brakes, and sway bars all around for both cars.
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You crank centerline should be in line with the pinion shaft on the diff. On the S30 that's offset to the passenger side. Shoot a laser from the diff flange.
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Most likely a tire rubbing on the front valance. Probably the right front.
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Adjust the rear drum brakes per the FSM and then bleed all 4.
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And then there was Toyota's amazingly engineered and highly illegal turbo restrictor that got them permanently banned from the WRC.
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One of the tricks for a restricted NA engine is to build as large a plenum as possible behind the engine. Another is to build a lower (relative to unrestricted) rpm torque engine with more gears in the trans and tighter ratios. The time between more frequent shifts, some creative plenum, design, and unique valve timing can develop positive pressures in the plenum for brief periods.
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With your budget you're lolling at a 200ho engine build if you do everything right.
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What is your budget for this engine build?
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I built a few for BMW E36 applications. Well worth it but there was room to do it because of the depth of the steering wheel assembly above the column on the BMW. I looked at doing something similar on the S30 and I figured you would need to cut the shaft and the column to get enoight room for the quickener.
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And I worked with the engineers at C&R/Visteon when designing my radiator and we calculated the BTUs for my setup. Worked great in 110 degree weather at WSIR. Maybe give them a call with your specs. You might be surprised and can maybe plan for a later upgrade.
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Port match the header to the gasket, Cut the three bolt flange and the neck down to 2.5" off the end of the header and run a slip fit with collector bolt tabs, test fit a few times dry to make sure the ports line up. I used a light coat of Permatex Copper RTV between the header and the gasket.
Please help - handling issues
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
A lot also depends on the diff you're running. With the Vlsd you're better off running the rear springing softer then the front. The Vlsd does go open or you get a very uneven torque distribution if the inside rear wheel gets very light.