johnc
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Posts posted by johnc
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Those roadside tests are for survey purposes only and will not result in any further enforcement or inspection for the individuals participating. I got caught in one (on purpose) with my all stock 1971 240z. The cop was told to wave over every 25th car. My car was very stock and clean so I was trying to get a good data point in the system for our cars. It worked and I spent an hour talking with the BAR techs and the cops about the program.
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For some folks $6K is nothing for the block work on a L6. Your budget is not the same as others.
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You have to look at the actual regulations and the BAR compliance programs. Search on this site, myself and others have provided links. And an officer won't impound your car, he will write a citation requiring a smog test at a STAR station with 10 days.
There are also directed inspection programs done to verify how effective the smog program is. Random vehicles are targeted with a suspected non-compliance area. They also do the same with specific car models. S15s got hammered a few years ago.
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A 1/2" gap between 5 coils gives you at least 2" of bump travel which is fine for a lowered street car. The Bilstiens will feel stiffer then the shocks you had in before because the Bilstiens are a performance shock.
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Your mistaken regarding "smog exempt." No car registered in CA is exempt from the smog regulations applicable to that car as of its date of manufacture. The exemption is for inspection - time of sake and bi-annual (and only those two types of inspection) for cars model year 1975 and earlier. There are other types of inspections that those cars are not exempt from:
1. Enhanced Inspection Programs.
2. Directed Inspection Programs.
3. Police or BAR Ordered Inspection.
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It's really not possible to install the 280zx Tokico springs incorrectly. The fronts are much larger in OD the the rears. Please do some more searching in the Suspension forum and FAQ. That will help you figure out what is making the front end of your car feel stiff. You should also get the FSM to help you understand the spring sizes and installation on your car.
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Or you can buy the STS Miata that podium'd at the SCCA Solo2 Nationals two years in a row for $6k and get out there and compete tomorrow.
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He didn't even need to ask. The Fabrication section has pages and pages of do's and dont's on roll cage builds - with pictures and dimensions.
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The autopower roll bar works well as far as safety is concerned. My issue is that the OP used seamed ERW tubing (not allowed since 1990 by any race sanctioning body), the main hoop is not one continuous bend, the welds are poor, and the bends are crimped/buckled. The diagonal is fine, its there to reinforce the main hoop in the plane of the hoop preventing racking and its NOT there to add additional support near the driver's head. Whether you're going to race or not, its silly not to take advantage of 65 years of accident investigation and experience that's written into the SCCA rule book regarding roll bars and cages. There's no difference between rolling a car at 60 mph on a race track and rolling a car at 60 mph on the street.
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Pretty much a fail.
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You can but your $8k budget is unrealistic unless you can do all the fabrication work yourself.
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It's very possible and has been done. You can save at least 50% on labor costs but the risks of shoddy work and outright theft increase. You will have to do a lot of research and plan on making multiple trips to visit shops and negotiate the deal before sending the car. You will also have to make many trips to check on progress and move things along. Large amounts of cash are also an issue when moving across the border.
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Another door bar issue is that the NHRA style of 6 point cage with the door bar up into the footwell is:
There is no lateral support for the front of that bar in a vehicle to vehicle side impact. The front of that bar is going to bend inward with the rocker panel and floor pan and take out your legs. With a full roll cage you have the front hoop and knee bar to transfer load across the car. If you can build a low front hoop/knee bar structure behind the dash that will help a lot with side impact safety. -
I don't like them for racing purposes. For street use it doesn't matter because most folks can't tell if a shock is good or bad until the horizon shifts unexpectedly.
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"The S30 was originally designed for a V8, but the gas crunch and american emissions limited the S30 to the straight 6 that it"
Not true.
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^ what he said...
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Engine seems tired from those numbers and how low 5 & 6 are compared to the rest.
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Nigel,
The diff is working correctly, based on its design. The mods that most people make to the R200 CLSD (adding clutches) in creases it's lock percent at the expense of low speed noise. That's 100% normal on the R180 and R200 Nissan CLSDs.
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All of them will eventually squeak. Wurth SIG3000 grease seems to work the best and last the longest.
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Not any kind if close up pic. I just draw a nice curved line that follows the stock wheel well arch and then cut on that line. Do a few small cuts until you have enough room.
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San Diego has a 91db sound restriction for autocross events at Qualcomm stadium. Pointing the exhaust up on cloudy days adds .5db. On clear days it drops the db by .3. I know from personal experience.
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It's very common to have rubbing on the front valance/spoiler with wide wheels and tires. 8" wide wheels or wider will have some rubbing at performance oriented camber setting and a lowered car. Trim the valance and the spoiler.
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Tokico stopped research and development on shocks for new model vehicles in 2009. They are still manufacturing the existing line of shocks but they production levels are low and they are having distribution problems here in the US.
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You don't need a tube frame at your power lelvels. A welded in roll bar with a vertical brace down from the diagonal/harness bar to the trans tunnel helps a bunch - especially if you add a layer of sheet metal around the tunnel to rear bulkhead connection. Also add full length subframe connectors.
Complete floor/subframe/firewall transplant to pre-smog Datsun
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
FYI... After I left I called a few other Z guys with clean stock cars and asked if the could drive by the survey. None could.
I also had the plan to use a stock engine for a modified 1977 280z. With a busy life (family, business, etc.) it was too much trouble to set aside two Saturdays for the swap before and after the inspection. I would have been really fucked with only a 10 day notice.