johnc

What's your budget?

Laguna Seca is tough for noise control because of where they measure the sound (between 5 & 6 and again between 6 & 7). You get sound reflection off the hillside and the Jersey walls. My BSP 240Z with a 2.5" exhaust, a Borla XR-1 Turbo, SUs, and ITG air filters registered 93db there and 90db when measured the next weekend at the SCCA Solo2 NT at Qualcom Stadium in San Diego. Switching to a single ITG air filter (instead of the dual setup) dropped the sound to 91db at Laguna and a 90 degree turn down exhaust tip got the sound to 89db.

The shaft itself is a medium carbon steel that appears forged. The wheel stud flange is mild steel that is fusion welded to the stub axle shaft.

Road racers break the wheel stud flange off the shaft. If youi're lucky that just means a trashed brake drum and a big spin. If you're unlucky, it means a rollover at speed as the wheel and drum go flying away from the car. 240/280 stub axles generally last about two years in a road racing environment before you'll start seeing cracks in the fusion weld. Companion flanges fail almost as frequently.

Having driven and raced both, I agree with the guy. The 01 Integra drives much nicer then a Z06 Corvette on the street. But if I'm in the grid at Willow Springs I would MUCH rather be sitting in a Z06 then any Integra made to date.

You would also need to machine a matching set of companion flanges. Generally the metallurgy of the 27 spline stub axles are fine. They fail at stress risers (usually in the splines) or at the fusion weld of the axle to the wheel stud flange. 300M would be a good material choice although its probably a little overkill. You would also need to surface treat the areas where the bearings ride. I would be interested in a set with matching companion flanges if the splines were shot peened and polished after machining.

I guess I don't understand the CCW wheels you have. All the one's I've seen from John Perner have the centers bolted to the rims. If you have a machined aluminum center that's welded to a spun or formed aluminum rim you could re-weld the center in a different position on the rim if: 1. The rim was designed to have the centers in different places. 2. The aluminum is not a hardened type (T6) which would require re-hardening after welding. Remember, the aluminum in the heat affected zone looses all of its hardening so it reverts back to the basic state of the alloy (T0). 3. You find a shop that specializes in doing exactly this to wheels. My big concern would be getting the center centered and square in the rim and not creating an out of balance condition with weld metal. Good lcuk.

On more and more new cars you have to look under the vehicle to see where the R&D and testing effort was spent on aero development. I spent a lot of time under a G35 sedan recently and Nissan designed the resonator, muffler, fuel tank, and panels around there rear wheels to create a flat undertray. Underbody areo is as important and body surface aero.

50K out of a mostly track motor is pretty good. You got your money's worth out of that one. Take a little extra time and send your crank to Jim Thompson. He can easily take 10 lbs out of it without affecting reliability.

I'm assuming you have a deathwish if you're considering the above. If not, I think you're only cheap solution is to run 235 or 225 size tires. 245s are a bit wide for 8" rims if you're talking about road racing or autocross.

Diffusers that work are not simple things. When you start relying on aero for chassis grip the suspension has to be designed to control any changes in rake. In particular this means anti-dive needs to be built into the front and rear suspensions. The worst thing that can happen is for the car to nose forward under hard braking. This spills air out of the rear diffuser and you lose rear downforce (grip) when you need it the most. The side strakes of the rear diffuser must be parallel and as close to the ground as possible and the up angle of the top plate should be 7 degrees. Anything more then that and the airflow starts separating and you create turbulence (drag). The diffuser should also be as long as possible. Education: http://www.mulsannescorner.com/

If this is for a street car, don't bother. You'll be replacing it annually due to rock chips, pits, etc. Most places that make Lexan race windows can use your old windshield as a template/mold to build a Lexan one. Expect to pay about three times the cost of a stock replacement window for a proper Lexan one.

> what is the best motor for a 240z?and whats the easiest > motor to swap in? Real question or a troll?

Well... the primary pipes don't appear to be equal length and the collectors are probably too short. Its a cute blue. Who makes it?

All chassis dyno runs (3 exactly) that I've done have been in a 1:1 ratio gear in the transmission.

Check my post in this thread: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=18693

Horsepower is calculated number derived via torque with this calculation: bhp = torque x rpm/5252 Being an derived number there are various methods of calculating it, with some methods more liberal and more accurate then others. Until 1972 most US auto manufacturers used an old SAE standard method to develop the so-called "gross" horsepower numbers. This standard was designed to measure the horsepower output of the basic block, cylinder head, and internals. The standard did not specify intake, exhaust, and accessory configurations. In 1972 the state of California, as part of their Clean Air act implementation, required all auto manufacturers to specify horsepower ratings using the SAE J245 (now SAE J1349 and J1995) standard. Somewhere the term "net" was thrown in by the automotive marketing folks, but there's nothing "net" about that standard. It measures crank horsepower with the engine as configured in the car including complete exhaust and intake systems. "Rear wheel horsepower" is yet another marketing term that has no basis in SAE (or JIN, DIN) standards. Wheel dynos measure the ability of the engine, driveline, and rear suspension of a vehicle to accelerate against some type of resistance (usually just the mass of the rollers). The result of this measurement is a number that has no meaning until its run through a calculation. These calculations are generally proprietary to each dyno manufacturer and can be adjusted at whim by the dyno operator to account for external conditions. The result of this calculation is a torque number that's again run through another calculation to get a horsepower number. Because of the proprietary nature of some of these calculations, comparisons of "rear wheel horsepower" between wheel dynos are probably inaccurate at best. The current overall, accurate, and comparable measurement systems are SAE (the most liberal), JIN (the moderate), and DIN (the most conservative). So, when you see the horsepower ratings for an American car you can assume they are a little optimistic, for a German car they are a little conservative, and for a Japanese car probably exactly correct (until you get to the mandated 280hp limit imposed by the Japanese government.) When you see "rear wheel horsepower" numbers, be skeptical if they are used to compare cars against each other from different dynos.

Should bolt up just fine. I would get the bellhousing and other parts anyway.

Hamilton is the guy that wrote the study that's the basis of this thread.

Hamilton is a one man band despite the fancy foundation name. Just another publicity effort on his part.

Maybe I should have rephrased my reply. Running spring rates over about 225 lb. in. on a stock chassis 240Z will turn the chassis itself into a spring. The chassis begins to flex when forces at that level are fed into the strut towers. Adding strut tower braces will let you run about 250 lb. in in the front and 275 lb. in in the rear. Your 375 lb. in. springs are close to the 400 lb. in. springs the old C Production racers ran when they had 12 and 14 point roll cages welded into their race cars. Again, the stiffest springs run in ITS are about 350 lb. in. and those cars have welded in 8 point roll cages. Regarding strut sectioning:

> 375lb springs all around You better have a welded in 8 point roll cage in the car to run those spring rates. The biggest springs I've heard run in ITS are 350s.

Looks like you might have something there. How much do they weight?

And A is the sum of the length of both arms, correct?

I'll be there.