Ricky

Here's a short video of my stock gearbox letting go in fifth in the warm up lap. The force inside the case was enough to split the tail shaft housing, the gearbox was rebuilt the season before. The engine makes 330hp and is NA.

Some shots of my Hybrid BRE replica Link to photo video of last rebuild after a racing incident.

The engine would peak at around 215 degrees and the performance would drop off, since adding the by-pass lines and fitting a header tank on the suction side it peaks at 195 when racing. The interesting thing is that after a race if I get held up returning to the pits the temperature will creep up to 220 before it slowly drops back to 180. I have resorted to shutting it down and allowing the fan to cool the water in the radiator then starting it for a minute to pull the cooler water thru. It never boils or loses water other than a little thats blown into the overflow bottle which is drawn back as it cools. I added the by-pass lines after we had some issues with the engine losing compression on those cylinders which was caused by the exhaust valve seats losing their seal. We used a vacuum gauge to test the valve seat to confirm this. At present the engine is producing 330hp so it should be making some heat.

I hadn’t considered the fact that I am bypassing the sensor in the lower thermostat housing, there is a thermostat in the housing. The engine is running noticeably cooler, I will relocate the hoses into a manifold and run them into the lower thermostat housing and see what the temperature is.

Here's mine

My attempt at reducing the temperature above the 6th, 5th and 4th exhaust ports. This change has stopped the temperature from slowly creeping up after 10 laps and it now peaks at 190 degrees and stays there. The lines are dash 3 brake lines which are well rated for the heat and pressure and are cheap.

Here are some engine bay shots of my BRE Tribute car and a link to my interesting end to a wet race.

I have just completed my seat mounts for my new race seats have a look in my gallery there is also a picture of my almost finished roll cage. http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=11901

I have lowered the front of my Z 50mm by shortening the Struts and fitting Koni 8641 1115 sport inserts. I have been following this thread and am not sure weather I should fit bump steer spacers or reposition the lower control arms. If I do reposition the LCA is there a magic distance up and out or just up?