MurphyEF

I pulled off my hub when I had to do this last month. Then, because they're just press fitted, popped it out with a hammer. Make sure your bearings stay clean and if they don't, regrease 'em. Mine squeaks because I didn't have grease to reapply after wiping some grass off.

Mounted some sheet aluminum for a flat surface cut to accept a 6x9 where each stock speaker had been. Then I installed a 12 inch sub in the panel over the spare tire. Both sets run on their own amp.

careful with flame throwers on the front. If you're moving at speed the chemicals that ignite could be spraying directly onto your Z with the wind turbulence. Makes for a well roasted Z car.

Looks aftermarket to me. If so, it could be to -anything-. Heck, there might not even be any wires attached to the rear end! Tried prying it up with a flat blade screwdriver, or pulling the console? I'm pretty sure there was just that decorative part that is under the switch housing. Check out this similar thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/107277-center-console-switchesplugs/page__p__1003703__hl__%2B280z+%2Bwhat+%2Bbutton+%2Bis+%2Bthis%3F__fromsearch__1#entry1003703

bah, go with the old school camaro lights. Not the late 60's, but the early 70's with the waterdrop in the middle..(thats my plan, at least, as soon as I get a welder and can make a new rear panel.

1. Unhooking your CSV from power is sufficient enough to make it not work. If you feel the need, I originally blocked mine off with a large bolt and two hose clamps, as well as a block off plate (custom made) for where the CSV was mounted. 2. The EGR can be deactivated by using vacuum plugs on it. If you with to remove it, you will need to make a block off plate for it (it's the closest thing to the firewall, heald down with two bolts). If you want the tube that goes to the exhaust manifold removed, you will need two plugs, one for the exhaust manifold, and one for the intake manifold. 3. Yes, it is. It is unecessary if you don't use cruise control. 4. Well, on mine, I have two vacuum lines that run anywhere. One for the brake booster (the large one by the EGR) and one for my FPR. The rest are plugged with vacuum plugs bought from autozone (about $9 for a package). I also extended/rerouted a few of my injector wires and ran them back by my firewall so they didn't crawl over the intake manifold like yours, the ground wire that is bolted to the intake, the wires for the AFM, and the ones that go to the dizzy. At the same time I removed and de-webbed my intake manifold (and wished that I have done the 60mm TB upgrade, as well as a cable throttle conversion). You can opt to plug the crank case vent line at the intake boot and throw a filter on the valve cover side, but I have hears stories of poor running conditions as well as oil leaks, so I left mine. I highly recommend a fuel rail upgrade (Pallnet or JTR) as well as an FPR upgrade. I hacked up my stock fuel rail to make it a single pass rail with an aftermarket FPR.

two 6x9's behind the seats (like many others) and a 12 inch sub molded into the spare tire cover. Almost looks like it belongs there!

Same thing hppened to me on my DD. I ended up using doubled up red cutting discs to grind the bolts down, rather than cutting them off. I wasn't worried about leaving any part of the bolt in the manifold because I was planning on shaving the intake at the same time that I swapped the intake/exhaust gasket. Now I can see the bolts as plain as day!

Well, I have no idea what I did, but after many renditions of "unplug everything, take off the housing, plug everything back in, put the console back together", it worked. Sadly, my turn signals and headlights still don't work. The actuators in the switch are working fine and making contact. I haven't yet checked with a voltometer, or even checked the fuses. at about 7am, I called it quits and started walking. The headlights and signals worked perfectly fine before. Note: I'm not at home right now, so I can't run down and check them.

And apparently my horn doesn't work, either.

Alright, so last night after work, I decided to replace all of the burnt out bulbs in my dash. I pulled my wheel and dash, labeled all of the wire connections, etc. Now, the dash is back in, the wheel is on and easily removeable, the connections are all back in the right spots. The ignition won't turn from "lock", and when I turn on the headlights, only my running lights come on. Horn makes a clicking sound somewhere on the side of the fusable links, but all of the fusable links have 12 volts on either end. My wheel is locked, I was trying to do the "steeringwheel jiggle" to get the key to turn ---didn't work---. The thick white wire with a black stripe on the back of the ignition switch connector has 12 volts. Should any other of the 4 wires have 12 volts? Any ideas as to what could cause this?? I'm supposed to wake up at 6am (now 3:56am) to take this car, my daily driver, to work. Help please!

^^^ On my '79, the nut he is talking about is white and plastic, with what looks like a tube on the end of it. It, in turn, sits in a loop, which when pressed down releases the latch. I shad a similar problem with my Z when I replaced the door locks. I replaced them, and the doors wouldn't open for anything! I ended up prying open the door with a crowbar, fixing the fresh dent (from the crowbar), and adjusting the latch and hoop in the door frame. Untill I had it adjusted properly, I had to do the following to get IN: Pull up on the handle With the handle up, bump the door with my thigh, usung some body weight, right about there the latch mechanism is that I was adjusting (while keeping the handle up) and the door would pop open. Hope this helps.

I think it would greatly. If it's the same, maybe I just need louvers for the first half of the ZX's. Thank you for your response!

I really like how this is turning out! Any chance you'd want to hop over to Kitsap county to make one for my S130? Lmao. Seriously, though, it looks great! I'd love to drop by and see it when it's done. It looks close to what I've wanted my front end to look like for a while now. I wouldn't want to steal your ideas, just do something similar.

I am unsure as to wether they were a factory option, but it would appear that I have a mounting strip for a set of louvers. I had forgotten to mention, the louvers get wider the farther down they go. They are about the right size for my window up near the top of the hatch, but near the bottom, they are nearly as wide as the hatch itself. I'm unsure if this is due to it laying flat for an extended period of time or not. I will take pictures of my "louver mounting tab" in the morning and post them here.