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HybridZ

DavyZ

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Everything posted by DavyZ

  1. You can keep most of the wiring harness--the JTR book addresses the 240Z-280Z so I'm not sure the electrical section directly pertains to you, other then hooking everything up---buy the book and then sell it when you are done. The engine can be sold for $100-$200. Not sure about the tranny. The engine block is what seems to be valuable, not so much the FI stuff. Davy
  2. Bastards. I guess he didn't have any money left in his wallet after buying the 350Z I swear I would have picked up the change if you didn't!!! lol Davy
  3. Yep--I was strongly considering one to use for my EFI conversion, but I'm going with stock LT1 for $1000 less. The Power-Plus is a bargain, polished and it is supposed to work very well judging from some comments from David Vizard (I think that who said it) who said they perform quite well and save a bundle over name-brand units. Oh, and you engine is looking truly stunning BTW! Davy
  4. The car is looking very complete at this point--very nice work indeed. The headers are great, but a little peculiar looking--what brand? Made for LT1 specifically? It's a swap I am most likely going to do once this current swap is 'finished'. Davy
  5. My wife would NOT be happy if I rode another one of these: I kinda miss it though--especially on nice weather days. Davy
  6. Very fair price IMO. Is this Cermakrome or something chrome-like to be shiney? I love the way they look. I had some block-huggers done for $98 and they took care of everything, including stripping the old paint. The L6 header is BIG, so I think you got a square deal. Davy
  7. Linky no worky: need password to get in there... Congrats though Davy
  8. I believe that Mike Kelly means to conslidate the forums a bit, not actually dump the valuable info there--that is part of "getting back to our roots" and 'simplifying.' I do think we should keep a forum open that involves the L6 engines--no need to dump them! However, a lot of the forums (just look at the LONG list) can be consolidated or done away with. There is very little interest in some of the forums and they just take up bandwidth AFAIC; what ends up happening is that we get the SAME QUESTION posted in the Chevy forum, for example, just because no one was on the other forum to answer a question. Remember when the site was 'smaller' and the forums were absolutely full of pertinent, meaningful, insiteful, USEFUL technical posts? That's what we'd like to achieve. Also, self policing would be great for EVERYONE on this site and it is not hard to do. Davy
  9. Yep, that is true. You have a bigger, better, badder inventory then even I do That said, take some time and start installing the stuff while you still can. If something bad happens, you'll be out major cash and not enjoy the performance parts you do have. Davy
  10. Maybe cuz I like the way newer wheels look ....my preference leans towards the look of the mount in question and I am sure that I wouldnt be the first one on this site that decided to do something because of personal preference. No worries on that--yes, you won't be the first, but I can tell you that there is VERY LITTLE metal and weight used on the JTR kit, which is one reason why I like it. I especially like the fact that it is not seen for the most part: "like factory" so to speak. Very understated. It's fine having additional bracing and additional crossmembers and such, but why? If it is for looks, I cannot begrudge you that. I do the same thing with polished engine components. Davy
  11. What burns out the cat is leaded gasoline. It does help in reducing noise to a certain extent and can only help the atmosphere if installed correctly. The real danger in installing a catalytic converter is doing so in a car that did not have provisions for one before: you could end up with a fire inside the car from the heat coming up underneath. If your 260Z had a cat, you should be ok, especially with a heat shield. Davy
  12. You will not find this commonplace in the US since we don't have those cars here for the most part. Too obscure, too exclusive, too rare. For the same cost or less, racing brakes can be installed--makes more sense for us in the USA. However, for those in Australia and NZ, Europe, etc, it might be a good move. Davy
  13. I strongly suggest you email Ross Corrigan at http://www.modern-motorsports.com and see his 13" brakes--they use very very good quality parts and are made to order! He is an honest guy that is great to deal with--I have experience with doing business with him. There are reasons for not going with an aluminum caliper. This system uses the same ones that come on Baer racing brakes. If, however, you prefer something else, I'm sure that he'll accomodate you. Davy
  14. They are nice and functional, but they don't have the same appeal that the others do--that's why we posted what we did! To each his own---everyone likes something different, that's why there are so many to choose from. Davy
  15. Restoring a 260Z won't bring in as much cash as you think--the 240Z is worth more. Like what was said above, if the 260Z is an early body style, you could drop the 280Z motor in it--but then you'd certainly have two non-working cars for a while. Hmmm; dilemma. Davy
  16. Thanks for the vote of confidence guys. Davy
  17. Well, congrats! That's just great! We just had a little boy and now the wife is talking a fifth one now--hoping for a girl!!! Hope your wife does really well during the delivery and the baby is healthy and doing fine. Davy
  18. I like the Moon shift knobs for nostalgia sake, and the Momo ones for high tech. That said, I'll probably go for a Hurst know since they are most reasonable $$ Davy
  19. Corzette and Scottie GNZ have the right ideas--very effective and cheap too. Scottie's is a little better IMO because it is made from one piece of metal. Davy
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