DavyZ

5th, he's talking about twisting the chassis--yes, that can happen, especially if you drag race the car and/or have very high hp. A rollcage or good rollbar will do a lot for taking out chassis flex. Also, there are things called subframe connectors that will go along way to helping to eliminate this problem. Check out Pete Peraska's site for a drawing of subframe connectors--the hard work has already been done for you! Davy

Wicked idea for a sled--ditto the "hang on tight!" comments. Davy

Perfect color for a Z! Davy

The suspension is perfect for the V8 swap. If you decide on upgrading to aluminum heads and intake manifold, you'll be very close to stock weight! Are your Eibach's 200 lb rate or higher? Good, no problems then. The 1989 engine will work with a T5 from a Camaro--just make sure you get a 1988 or newer T5 since they are WC (World Class) units that have improvements over the old units. If you are going to be drag racing this car on a regular basis, you will want to get a T56 (6 speed) if you want the stick shift. I'm not sure what you mean by "the frame rails holding the motor?" The crossmember holds the motor. I suggest buying the JTR manual and reading it several times to get a very good idea about what all goes into a swap and the time involved. Also, use the search function in the forum to find out information. In all probability, any question you ask will have been answered multiple times. As far as headers, you will need block-huggers. These are made by a number of different manufacturers and have different prices/quality. I would venture to say that most "blockhuggers" for a SBC will work. If you have aftermarket heads, sometimes sparkplug boot issues may arise, but most guys here don't have any problems. I bought cheapie Summit Racing headers for $70. Good luck with your project; I don't think you will regret it. Davy

The first looks a bit better for the application than the second wheel IMO. Davy

Jon, I'm really impressed that you can do all that stuff. Sometime I'd love to see the work you have done on the car! Way to go! Davy

I give it two thumbs up! I really do think it looks good--but that is not as important as what YOU think Davy

Terry, wheretheheckizzzat mounted????? Davy

OK, I wanted to know from you guys that have been successfully cutting braided steel hoses to give me a heads up on what is required. Recently I cut though what I thought was braided steel hose, but even with the ends wrapped in electrical tape, the ends frayed like no one's business and I then realized that what I had was the fake stuff. With the fake stuff, I know I should have separated the sleeve from the hose, and just cut through it with a sissors, but hindsight is 20/20. I guess my question is this: Does a genuine braided steel hose fray very much (if at all) given that the ends are wrapped in electrical tape? Is there a better way to do this? Is a hacksaw the best way to cut it? I realized that I may have too coarse of a blade on my hacksaw--any recommendations? Davy

Welcome to the forum, Javv The easiest way to get more out of your car's acceleration would be to go to lower rear end gears like a 3.9 or something like that IMO. Revs will be higher on the freeway, but it will make a noticeable amount of difference in acceleration for you. Doing a whole rear end swap to an R200 with the lower gears would be my choice. Perhaps there is someone else with a different viewpoint. Davy

Pete, there is some juicy info that we talked about (all the different ways of rolling the fenders). The most professional way is to probably get the fender rolling device that the Tire Rack (?) rents for about $35. Look up the old threads using the search function in this forum and in Body & Paint--you are sure to come up with the info! Good luck Davy

Ken, you might want to consider two mufflers in line to get the sound down to a reasonable level without harming performance. Some guys that have a resonator first in line and then a muffler still complain about a droning noise at speed. From my reading, it seems that the guys that have used an actual muffler, even if it is a straight through design (for the first in line) and then a larger muffler at the back end of the car, have significantly cut the noise and have no/little droning. I bought my system used from a guy on the board with his assurance that it was a "quiet" system. (it is not hooked up yet, so time will tell, but the quality of the system tells me it is for real) The system is a single 3" mandrel bent system which starts with Y-pipe into a Borla stainless steel racing muffler (straight thru) going back to a large Dynomax Superturbo Muffler and chrome tip. The large 3" tip is not rice because I have the mechanical cajones to back it up Hope this helps. Davy

Hmmm, that is an idea I never thought of, thanks Mark! Dan, I also bled like a stuck pig, got mad, and then mangled the little hose (unintentionally) and now have to get another one. I'll be sure to get a good brand. Davy

Your wife should not get too mad at you for you wanting to upgrade to the Dart block. Why? Simple! 1) It is stronger and will prevent catastrophic failure that is more likely to happen with the garden variety 350 you have. She wouldn't want you to have problems at speed would she? This is a safety issue! (well, sort of) 2) You deserve it because you have been faithfully saving the money by not previously buying the block years ago. Having to wait this long to buy the new block is just your resolve to help your family--man I respect you... 3) The longevity of the Dart block will be second to none due to it's newness and it's strength. 4) You had to put up with the same motor in three cars...it's time for a change! 5) Christmas is coming soon, and when was the last time you had a BIG present? Also, you could tell your wife you'll get her something "special" for her if you get the new block. Andy, I just can't see any reason why you should not have that puppy in your possession before the year is out... Davy PS--if your wifey gets negative, we can always have the forum sign a petition and send it to her! Of course, depending on how your house is run, it may not go over too well...dictatorships don't like democracy much!! lol j/k

quote: Originally posted by 73BOTIZ: DavyZ, Bring your hoses down to my shop in San Leandro and I will cut them for you on my abrasive cut-off saw. Mike D. Hey Mike, I appreciate it, but I bunged the piece up so bad I'm going to have to replace it! Thanks for the kind words and offers, guys...at least now I know how to do it! I do have a Dremel (forgot all about it :rolleyes with all kinds of cutting wheels (that may work next time!) and I have a grinder that I can use with a 4" wheel like Owen suggested. Again, thanks for the info!!!!! Davy [ October 15, 2001: Message edited by: DavyZ ]

quote: Originally posted by DavyZ: Welcome to the forum! If you install an engine that is the same year or newer, with the smog equipment, the State looks at it as being an engine change--as far as they are concerned, if the smog devices are transferred over(from the dnor car), the new engine is at worst a wash or it will be an upgrade for the car since newer engines produce less smog. This is better for the environment since it is now an upgrade for the car, thus it is legal as it will easily pass the sniffer test. Use the search function to look for threads regarding this topic. If you buy the JTR manual, it will go a long way in describing to you how to pass smog. The principle listed above is very simple once you understand it, and passing smog should be a breeze. As far as handling is concerned, it should be as good or even a little better than stock. Some tall guys on the forum build 2+2's because of their great headroom and over spaciousness. Davy [ October 15, 2001: Message edited by: DavyZ ]

test [ October 15, 2001: Message edited by: DavyZ ]

Take something like an icepick or awl and press hard on all areas underneath. If there is rust it may go through. Also, you can put a magnet on there to see how badly its rotted. Davy

Dan, a cage or an 8 point rollbar would be good insurance. SW makes a "kit" that fits the Z car. Davy

BLKMGK--hey, Bud, it gets downright cold here...50 degrees or so in the winter; dowright chilly; why I may even need a light sweater or something! Z YA: Congrats! Now just get that baby running!!!! Davy

Like BLKMGK said, get the best, most rust free Z available because you will be money ahead. I made the mistake (as did he) of getting a Z with substantial rust, and both of us sold the cars at a loss later on when we discovered how bad the problem really was. A V8 engine will crack rusty metal very quickly. The better (nicer, rust free) the car, the stronger the chassis. Good luck! Davy

Just make sure you are careful in what you do and it should go fine. For me, it really comes down to the car: if everything works, the wiring/electrical is fine and I would use the stock harness to save some cash, but if there are obvious problems (bizarre lighting, multiple functions for one switch, rats nest from previous owner, etc) then I would rewire the car with a Painless harness. Good job on ordering the JTR manual! Davy

Warren, it's good to have you on board! I think you'll find this forum to be fun, entertaining, and informative. Good luck with your project!!!! Davy

Jeromio, a Volvo V8 converison is a great idea IMO. If you want a 240, I can supply a nearly perfect '82 240 DL with ipd suspension kit for a JTR V8 conversion. It's too bad you are so far away, though Davy

Purrrfect! Thanks for the headsup on that one--Earl's just became my new friend... Davy