DavyZ

I'd love to see them! Is it possible to post a pic? Davy

Matt, welcome to the forum. It seems like we are growing into new areas all the time--many members own other cars too, so the "menu" here keeps expanding. The idea of a V8 powered 240SX has some great appeal--they are good handling, good looking little cars that are looking for a bigger motor. The Z runs like a bat out of you-know-where with a V8, so I think the 240SX would be similar. Don't worry about handling so much. Why? If you have already upgraded the suspension and wheels and tires anyway, that will be enough. An LS1/T56 combo would be the bomb in that little car. It would still be controllable and docile in town...until you mash the gas pedal. Can you handle the speed? A V8Z was the fastest car I had ever been in and left me shaking after the "demonstration." If you enjoy that kind of thing, you have found a new home. As for engines & trannys in Northern California, look up GM Sports Salvage in San Jose on Old Oakland Road. They have it all and lots of it. They are used to guys buying their engines for swaps, etc. Hope this helps. Davy

Mike C, Your mirrors look very nice on the car! Style seems right at home too. If you can post a pic showing the remote control on the inside of the door...now that would be something many of us would like to see; where you routed it and what the install looks like. Thanks. Davy

Lone speaks the truth--we did discuss that. And, Lone brings up a good point worth looking into: how about swapping the fronts for the back--what would it take to make it work. Lone, good point on the e-brake. It would be interesting to hear Mike scca and Terry Oxandale's take on the idea. As you said, it probably has been thought of before. Davy

Hrm, anyone that can push a boulder up a hill is not "sissy" in my book! J/K Scott, hang in there! And be sure to post pics of the ride when it's painted! We are all eager to see it finished (but maybe not as much as you are ) Take care, Davy

John, I reread you post and some of the replies and I'd like to make a few more comments (just try and stop me! ) First, what Pete said about a ductile crank shaft it true. Because of the nature of the metal, they have a tendency to not transmit high frequency vibrations the same way that a forged crank does, and thus won't develop cracks the same way. This is a huge subject and I won't get into the specifics, but all is covered in David Vizard's book in the email I sent you--check your email tonight. Also, power is not made by the crank per se. Yes, if you go to a stroker crank, you will end up with more torque, but maybe at the expense of rpm & horsepower. There seems to be a tradeoff. Heads & camshaft is where you really make power! However, the whole combination of parts must work together as a whole or you'll end up with an expensive, lack-luster performance motor. What Night Rider said is also true; that if one part of your motor is built up one way, and the other part is not built up the same way, that is a waste! To summarize it all, the Scat cranks are great--just shop around. They range in price from a few hundred dollars depending on application) to just over $1000. If I remember correctly, the 9000 series is the lightened one? That is one strong, light, fast-spinning mother! Take your time and read your email tonight. Davy [ July 18, 2001: Message edited by: DavyZ ]

Don't make the mistake of giving him cash for that motor! Just tell him the truth and say you make a big mistake--if he gets mad, tell him to take a hike! You'll feel better after that! Ask him why he didn't put in the new rings, etc. Tell him you have come across a number of better deals than what he's offering. Based on what you have seen, tell him it's worth half of what he wants for it and that you are looking at alternatives! DON'T DO IT!!!! Davy

Good tip, Mark. My urethane spoiler was scratched as all get out underneath, but the front part held the paint well for years--must have been the urethane paint. BLKMGK: maybe I'll hit you up for the spoiler before the year is out! Davy

You might want to consider using a rust inhibitor like POR-15 or Carroless for places you don't see. Davy

Congrats! Have fun with your new "baby!" Davy

Oh well, once it's done, you'll never have to do it again! No way those Sandersons will ever wear out! Unlike my generics... Davy

Haha! Dan, you're funny Davy

You know, if you are going to the expense of a Quaife (probably worth the money too!), an R200 upgrade might be a good idea--simple enough to do. IMO Davy

Right, Pete...he's a nut, just like us... Davy

Duh! I can't believe I missed thinking about that...must have been the sushi and sake... Davy

The Supertrapps look pretty cool, but all the tests I can remember have them as being a little too loud for the same amount of power a good muffler like a Dynomax Superturbo puts out. They have tunability, no question, but they put out more sound per hp gained. But hey, to each his own--if you like them, be different and play with them. It'll look unique and perform well. What's 3-4hp at the top end anyway? Davy

I've never heard any negatives on the spacer bearings, anyone else that has? Davy

It says I typed the url incorrectly... http://pages.prodigy.net/chevy_dave/mgb.html Try that on for size. Wicked car, man! Davy [ July 17, 2001: Message edited by: DavyZ ]

I guess it would help if we knew in what city you lived... Davy

You will find that the motor and tranny will fit fine, but the car will be a bit buzzy on the freeway with only 3 speeds in the tranny. The 280 most likely has a 3.54 rear ratio which is not high or low, but is not ideally suited to the tranny combo. However, all things considered, if you are just trying something new for street racing--that is a pretty cool combo. The Chevelle radiator may actually fit. According to JTR, a mid 70's Nova radiator will fit. Just take some measurements, no biggie. You might want to get a good shroud and/or an electric fan. Biggest advice would be to buy the JTR book and you can fab your own mounts for much less $$$. Also, they will go through the ins and outs of the swap. You can do it even cheaper than going with MSA. Plus, if you just want to buy the mounts and setback plates, JTR also sells those too--it can only save you money. Good luck. Davy

Those are all automatics, not manual transmissions like you stated that you wanted. So, if you want a manual tranny, go with a T56 if you can afford it, or go with the World Class T5. If you want an automatic transmission, go with the 700R4 or the 200R4. Anything else will probably bring you headaches. Davy

Yes, it was only good (juicy) stuff lol Well, the V6 T5 has a torque rating of only 220 lb/ft if I remember correctly (I'm wrong a lot!) or something close to that. Only God knows if it'll frag when you pop the clutch. Let's see, your V6 will have 300 hp and the torque will be about what? If you are around 250 lb/ft of torque I would just use it. If you are around 300 lb/ft, I would look at other options. But you already have this thing in your possession, right? Hmmm. A few years ago I owned a TR7 which I wanted to convert to Chevy V6 power. I did not have this forum to draw knowledge from at the time and I did some research into the trannys. Some advice I got from a local transmission shop was to NOT buy the V6 transmission, but buy a V8 one instead and have it modified with a different input shaft to fit the V6. Now about the bellhousing...well, I'd have to look at that...I thought the V6 block and V8 block had the same back ends, but see I could be wrong there! I never pursued the conversion because I was fed up with the TR7, period. I figured a Datsun conversion was less hassle and would be cheaper in the end--have you priced modifications for TR7s? Not cheap! Anyway, enough babbling, I know you will do the right thing! Good luck. Davy

Mike, that'll be simply wicked looking! Davy

Welcome back Phil! My bro and I were just talking about you & your project the other day. Did you pick up a T5 for a V6 or a T5 for a V8??? They have different input shafts which can be swapped, but the V8 T5 is much stronger. I know this is after the fact, but FYI. Cheers, Davy

If you want a little bit of insurance, you can buy a Scat crank, with very reasonable prices, that are made of cast steel (stronger than cast iron, not as expensive as forged steel)--David Vizard swears by them for the budget builder. I have seen them on ebay going for cheap and brand new! If I do another motor, I'll definitely buy one. Davy