DavyZ

Dan, it's there--just look for it--much easier to see with a big screen. Follow BLKMGK's instructions and you should see it; I do. Davy

Wouldn't the amount of energy needed to slow the rotor down be less with a larger rotor because the caliper is farther out from the center? Because you can do a comparison by putting a bicycle upside down, spinning the wheel, grabbing the spokes near the inside and trying to slow the wheel down--hard to do. Now spin the wheel, grab the outer edge of the wheel--much easier to stop the wheel. I'm sure this must figure in with a larger rotor. Davy [ July 03, 2001: Message edited by: DavyZ ]

Dan, Long's site has great info--even for the shop that's doing this for you. You already bought the car and the JTR mounts? Man, that was quick! Long, I'm pretty sure he does not need a new crossmember! Why would he? Are you thinking of new motormounts and JTR setback plates? Just wondering. Davy

Are you sure it's not the return line? Do some investigating. Also, do you have a vented cap on there? Davy

Nathan, it is time. Do it now. But, get all the parts together first--you'll spend a whopping amount of time just sourcing parts. After that--bang away! GO FOR IT!!!! Davy

Some of those nice MSD billet aluminum distys have O-rings to keep the oil from coming out. Nice! Davy

Dynamat is purportedly great, but it is also expensive--the main downside. I have been looking at www.sounddomain.com and the Cascade Engineering product they sell that is sound deadening paste--talk about being able to cover any kind of surface! They sell the stuff in gallon containers. HTH Davy

Scott, what's holding you up? Is it the style of the wheels available or the prices? I'm sure that Fiske, or HRE, Simmons, etc. have wheels in all kinds of custom offsets and widths. The main problem I see is not wheel selection, it's price. $2000 to $3000 just for the wheels is not what I want to pay. It seems like they just don't make decent wheels anymore for RWD cars like Zs that need a ton of negative offset to fill wide flares. If you don't mind the drag racing image, Centerline makes all kinds of wheels. You might want to look into changing your lus from 4 to 5--that way you'll increase your chances of getting wider wheels. It's a thought anyway. Good luck. Davy

That sure is one purdy motor! Davy

Len, he may have cast pistons which can only take a minimal hit of nitrous, and if they stock cast, I wouldn't hit them at all. If they are hypereutectic they can be hit, but forged is the best for NOS. Kevin, what do you think the compression would be if he had the nasty stock pistons? They are usually not flat-top, but are a dished kind. I should have read his post again and had seen that he did mention the pistons. I was totally winging it, but I may have been close if they were stock. I agree with you that the comp. ratio should come in right about where you say it is. Regarding the new cam: I think he has chosen wisely. Davy [ July 02, 2001: Message edited by: DavyZ ]

Thanks for posting that, Jerry! It totally confirmed what I believed to be true. Yeah, those 260Z doors have a fairly good metal bar/brace in them. Glad it worked out! Davy

If you really fabricate most things yourself, please don't over look the best place for schematics! www.jagsthatrun.com is the place; just buy the conversion manual and all the drawings are in there (plus dimensions). You'll be able to fab the whole thing for under $50. I think one member did it for $35??? Something to consider, and welcome, officially, to the forum. Davy

Havok, use the search function and look under "rear end", "rear end alternatives", "Q45 rear diff", and such. There was a thread earlier this year dealing with that. A Zer named Mark is running one on his car and he included some pics if memory serves me correctly. Mike Kelly was the one that started the thread I think. HTH Davy

[ July 01, 2001: Message edited by: DavyZ ]

Hmm, sounds like this thread is going right back to the side impact issue of a couple of months ago. I believe the general concensus was that the rollcage diagonal beams, angling downward from the main hoop to the footwell would provide a bit of protection, but not much because of their added length--I had to go against the grain on that one because I think it will help a whole lot. I have an SW 8-point cage just waiting to go in. Lone you have a welder don't you? But I digress...getting back to the CF dash--I think CF will bend quite a bit before cracking, and will not splinter like fiberglass. In an answer to WW question about making it thinner than glass--I guess it all depends on the amount of strength you want from it. It's MUCH stronger than glass (what BLKMGK said) and I would think that one mat for a dash should be sufficient--it's not like it's translucent or anything. Davy

...you were going for the sleeper look and one thing led to another and....now there is a "Bite Me" sticker on your hatch glass to piss off ricers! Subtlety is not one of your strong points! Haha, that's the way I like it! Your friend, Davy

You gotta go look at Pete's site--he even has some dimensions and stuff. Good luck, Leonard. Davy

Understood, but what if someone sends you their dash and you CF it and they don't like it? What if you don't have an adequate supply of dashes? At least the caps come in each of the different styles and fit pretty well (I was impressed with the quality of fit & finish on my MSA full dash cap). Seems like a better "business" move to produce CF over the caps and sell those. But, it's not my business... Davy

That cam choice sounds really good--not too much cam for this application. We still don't know what the compression is, though. That info would be vital. With the heads being 72cc, if the pistons are standard flat tops, the compression may be a little low. But, the cc of the Iron Eagle heads is better than stock. We know the heads have great flow, the carb (if it's functioning properly) at 600 cfm should be more than adequate to about 5500/6000 rpm. The Performer intake is ok and is at the very least matched to the carb. Try the cam swap because it's relatively cheap--but if that does not totally wake the motor up, you have too low of compression. If memory serves me right stock smog heads are 76cc and will yield about 8:1 with stock pistons. 64cc heads will yield about 9.5:1, so if your pistons are stock, then you're looking at 8.9:1 to about 9.1:1 compression. Good for streetability! Your new choice of cam seems really well suited to the engine now. It should wake that puppy up. Davy [ June 30, 2001: Message edited by: DavyZ ]

Douglas, Welcome to the HybridZ forum. This is the best place to ask questions regarding swapping motors in your Z car. I urge you to use the "search" function and look in the archives for past threads that cover common topics. When it comes to doing the swap "yourself" without the help of JTR or anything else, Myron did it--and it was a ton of work. I don't know if his car was any "better" because he did the swap all by his lonesome. Read his comments about his ride in the "Featured Cars" section. Why even try to use the Nissan T5 behind a V8? What is the point? You would have to specially fabricate the input and output shafts and then cobble something that will work how it bolts up to the bellhousing. Way too much time & money wasted for something that inevitably will self-destruct. It's far cheaper to use GM parts with GM parts, Ford parts with Ford parts, etc. Good luck with your conversion. Davy [ June 30, 2001: Message edited by: DavyZ ]

Jim, that would be really cool, thanks. Maybe they also advertised in my June issue of Trukin' Magazine? Hey, I get bored at work too! Actually, I bought the June issue because it was full of flamed vehicles. I do have to say that although some are garish, the Truck magazines have vehicles with the "best" paint jobs. That's where I pull my ideas from for paint jobs for the Z Honest! Davy

I think BLKMGK recently alluded to a company that makes a NACA duct for those vent openings (that would look really cool on your car BTW!), but he said the company never emailed him back. Still, maybe you'll have better luck. Dan, If you look at Lone's site, he goes through a fiberglass vent build-up. Granted its not for the hood, but could that be so difficult for the hood? Nah! Maybe you could custom make some for yourself? Same style, but only for the hood. Davy

So I take it that the Optima (my choice) batteries are just way too fat to get into those racing boxes? Too bad. I'll have to fab one up because I'm basically sold on the Optima-type batteries. Davy

Auxilary....your making me jealous! Nice ride BTW. Davy [ June 30, 2001: Message edited by: DavyZ ]

WW: Yes CF is stronger than fiberglass, but I really don't think it will shatter like fiberglass because its not as brittle, but I could be wrong. Here's one thing to ponder: if you are in a bad enough accident to shatter the dash, there will be not much left of you or your legs in that type of accident. The Z has a very long nose (better for crush area IMO) and if all that metal gets pushed up so far that the dash gives way...well, you can call it a lifetime as far as I'm concerned, because you'll be done. Davy