DavyZ

Guys, as you know a high final gear is great for the highway in a V8Z. I want to get a T56, but they are very expensive. The T5 is affordable, but limited in the amount of torque it will take. The Muncie 4 speed, like what Fairlady 327 is running is butally strong, but the final ratio is only 1:1; way too low for the highway. So, the question is: Is there a feasable way to get a .70 or final ratio from a 4 speed? I just have to ask, because my curiosity is getting the better of me. Davy

There was some discussion on ZDriver or Zcar.com on the Iridium plugs. They are intriguing enough and I may opt for a set of those for the V8. Davy

Sean, it might be easier just bonding a glass cowl onto your existing hood. You may want to consider that--the only issue is the location of the hood vents--there could be some interference--give it a thought before proceeding. Most cowls are universal, but I do know MSA sells one too. Davy

Scottie's solution looks the best (factory looking) and won't ever loosen up. A primo example is on his web site. The JTR method would be ok for most street use and I'd personally stay away from solid mounts for street use. I think the combination of functionality and asthetics make the Scottie solution the best. Hows that for a plug, Scottie? Davy

Mike, I can't believe I didn't thank you for the information: THANK YOU! I downloaded the info and I'll be using the kit when I purchase the T5. I don't think I can afford a T56 right now. Great info on the site and it looks as if they have found a good solution to a nagging problem. Davy

Around here, 280Z's are a dime a dozen, but not so with the 240Z's. I wish the smog laws exempted the 280Z's because they feel much better, stiffer, and safer IMO. I notice a difference in just the way the doors are constructed (lock mechanism, side impact beam, window mechanism, etc). 280Zs are more rattle free and more comfortable IMO. I would do a 280Z V8 swap in a heart beat if they were smog free. I would just swap out the bumpers and go from there. I know weight affects everything--so I'm trying to stay at a relatively lean 185lbs. Shoot, consider your own weight in the equation!!!! That could be 100lbs of difference!!!!!! Davy

I think the one advantage that the auto (700R4) has over the stick (T5) is that it will be much less likely to break. Both are about the same money, and you'll never have to replace a clutch in the auto! The T56 is probably the strongest of the three I mentioned, but considering the purchase of the whole assembly, it may very well cost over twice as much. All that said, I'm still going T5 with this car, or even T56 if I can afford it at the time. Davy

Vince, no problem...if you can't find one, I'll sell you mine for a reasonable price. I cannot email you for some reason--the forum says the "administrator is blocking email access" so go ahead and email me since mine works--we'll work something out. If it is only some vital info you need, hook up with Locutus, otherwise email me. Davy [ July 27, 2001: Message edited by: DavyZ ] [ July 27, 2001: Message edited by: DavyZ ]

Dan, although I don't have Centerlines personally, I have spoken with Z owners who do and they really like them. They are relatively light and come in a variety of offsets. If you like them, I don't think you can go wrong. Davy

Your heads are only 58cc heads?!? Wow, only the piston manufacturer will know for sure! I'm sure they make pistons that will work for your application & get the compression ration down to 8.5:1. If not, your boost will have to be somewhat limited I would think. Forged pistons are a must, and I suppose a forged crank is only necessary depending on the amount of boost you are running. Again, amount of boost will determine the kind of valves. 6500 rpm should be ok for a N/A crank (upper limit probably) but who knows with it blown? Perhaps one of the drag racers knows. As far as coating the pistons, one of the guys on this board, "takman57" owns a performace coatings shop in Dallas TX. Long, (dankinzle) is also part owner. Maybe one of them will chime in? The coatings you can do yourself if you wish as long as you have an airbrush or paintgun for detail work. Sorry I can't answer all your questions, but I'm sure there are guys here who can. Davy

Yeah, Baby! Good kills! Heh heh, knock 'em dead. Davy

Ouch! That smarts, over $850!?! Oooo, Mike, I feel your pain. Hopefully, this will be it and you're done. Davy

I love that magazine! Oh, goody goody! I like good pictures and CF--the possibilities for my car are endless! Thanks for the tip. Davy

Datto, were these plug the new "iridium" plugs that I've seen advertised. The price is sure right IMO. Davy

Auxilary, I'm thinking that when they first published that info maybe the racing radiators were not the hot ticket that they are now. Mike Knell acknowledged the shortage of genuine Camaro radiators and is looking for an economical alternative. For the money and presumably the quality, the Griffin or Howe is tough to beat. I'll take Ross' advice since he has been running one for a while now. Of primary importance in any radiator is how it is mounted. Isolating the radiator is key so it won't fall apart under vibration. I sourced some good soft lower mounts from a Chevy S-10 (I think that's what it was) and the upper metal brackets and isolators from a Volvo. They should work out peachy keen. Davy

A single 3" is fine. Rick Johnson sold me his single 3" system and was running 400-450 hp. He installed a single 3.5" system and there was no power difference! Both systems were mandrel bent and very well thought out. I think you'll be fine. My $.02 Davy

Good to see you posting again; I had wondered where you went! Glad to hear about your new car; congrats! Davy

Agreed. Auxilary asked me via email what I thought about the radiator issue since I have the Camaro unit--used $75 from wrecker. I said it's money well spent if you can afford to go with the Griffin or Howe. If you are buying new, that the best choice. Doing it over again, Griffin would be my radiator of choice. Davy

Pete, from all my research, I would err on the side of conservative. I think the cam you picked out (first one listed) would be fine, although a nice lumpy one ! The cam the guy suggested seems a bit too much for the street (more like a strip cam) IMO. You are already pushing it IMO with as big as a cam you picked out, but I believe the streetability will be pretty nasty. I'm very surprised he picked out one even bigger. A lot of guys make the mistake of over-camming their engines--"if a little is good, more must be better," as you well know. Hmmm. I'd ponder this a bit more before going with the "suggested" grind. Call them another time and speak with someone else--bet me they give you a different opinion! I remember calling about my own mild performance cam--they suggested a grind lower, but I was near the bottom of the cams anyway! Shoot, there was nowhere to go but one conservative grind up for me! Davy [ July 25, 2001: Message edited by: DavyZ ]

Pete gives some sage advice here. I would like to add that what you build is what you envision the car to be. If you already have a 283 or 302, by all means use it! If you don't have a motor yet, you may want to consider a 327, but again, don't let me or anyone else choose for you. I believe in cubes, but what is the "right amount" of torque for you? A 283 will make more torque than a staight six. A 302 will make more than a 283, while a 327 will make more...you get the idea. It's your choice, but read Pete's comments again and chew on that for a while--you are doing this on a budget so your best choice may be something even like a 350, which will happen to be available and cheap--be flexible with a budget; you'll be much happier and maybe get better components all around. Just my $.02 Davy

Oooooh, Shweeet! Very nice install. I really like the bright red lower a-arms. The hairy beast looks like a large prickly plush toy. Davy

Ross, I'm very interested and want to know what the time frame is: when you want the moolah and when you think these babies will be finished. Shipping is maybe what, $25? Davy

Vince, can't you get one locally? Your state has as many V8Zs as mine! Let me know if you can't get a manual. I may have an older one floating about. Davy

Ditto to what Mike C just said: get the JTR book and use its diagrams to have the parts made locally. One member here was able to fabricate the parts for under $30US!!! I believe many Holdens have Chevrolet drivetrains, but whatever engine you use, make sure it is based on a small block Chevrolet V8. There is no kit to speak of, but a Rover V8 might be a better swap due to parts and engine availability. However, keep in mind that the Chevy is usually a whopping 5.7 liters or more and the Rover is quite a bit smaller. Torque anyone? Good luck. Davy

I'd say the quality of the video is pretty good, but the sound is not. I always enjoy watching a Z make a good burnout! Davy