DavyZ

Craig, it might be the best of both worlds, but I'm NOT mounting fiberglass (or even the metal bumpers) to provide any significant amount of protection. Really, what I'm after is looks--the tighter the bumper looks in relation to the body the better! I'm hoping that the 8 point cage will provide protection along with the entire front and back ends being the "crush zones." David

Having bid on more ebay items then I care to mention, Mike, you did the right thing in getting that FI setup--I'm sure of it. Good call on that one! Enjoy that piece of racing art! David

Pete, the early 240Z bumpers look like they have a tight fit to the car. MSA sells fiberglass ones (probably as strong as the metal ones ) but I'm wondering if your mod actually pulled them in even closer to the body for an even tighter looking fit? Good call on painting them body color BTW. David

Thanks for the help, Mike. The url doesn't list a site--at least not on my computer. Hrm. Well, I'll try again at work. Gracias! David

Very wicked looking Z. I agree with Scottie that the mph seems too low, and for that matter, the time seems to high. That looks like a 9 second car, but looks can be deceiving.

I looks like a good way to get hurt if you get near it! Seriously, the pic is sooo small I can barely see it. I almost looks like a strange attempt to do an inboard suspension combination so unsprung weight is reduced. Again, the pic is too small for me to see. Maybe someone with a big monitor can do better.

James, welcome to HybridZ! You picked up a very nice ride from ebay, and although I am a firm believer in the JTR setup, I really don't know how much bearing there will be to handling since you have a 2+2. My reasoning goes like this: the JTR setback position helps in handling for a 2 seater since it puts the weight bias back a small amount. Your car has plenty of weight bias in the rear already because it's a 2+2. See? Don't bother working on a good setup! If it's not broke, don't fix it. Remember, this is from a hardcore JTR fan... David

I saw your email address on the top bid the other night, and decided I should just leave it alone otherwise you have ended up spending more $$$$ Seriously, I saw that item for sale yesterday and thought the price was VERY reasonable for the unit. It looks awesome and the performance should match it. I hope you like it!!! David Mike, as an aside, I don't like to bid against anyone from the forum. There will always be another similar item for sale...

Mike, thanks for your help. Please email me if and when you find something. Anyone out there trying to unload some good aluminum heads?

I'm doing exactly what the JTR manual shows on the fast white Z with the 400 sbc. I used the Camaro radiator and have the stock bottom mounts for it. For the top I did what the white Z has--Volvo radiator top brackets! They will work well IMO and should be easy to install. Plus they hold the radiator only on the side tank protrusions(sp?). I had considered using the classic Chevy top bracket, but I wanted a minimalist look (if that makes any sense at all) and be able to see my ugly aluminum radiator. David

Well I had just purchased a new set of Comp Cams roller rockers and high performance valve springs, and when I started to pull the springs off the heads, I noticed that one of the valve guides was cracked in a big way. These heads are cast iron and are installed on the motor. I am not a happy camper right now. However, there is a silver lining in this cloud. Money can fix it... I have been looking for some aluminum heads just for fun, but now my search is serious. Ebay has had crappy results IMO with prices of aluminum heads. For example, I was following some USED Edelbrock aluminum heads until they hit $750 with 2 days to go!!! Go figure! I kinda lost interest in the motor (temporarily) since it was nearly bottoned up. Any suggestions? I wanted to spend no more than $700 for heads, but now I'm looking at about a grand for the Edelbrocks. I'll look at AFR heads, and maybe Trick Flows. I'm just not sure and not happy. A grand is more than I wanted to spend but if I buy heads, I may as well buy aluminum since that is ultimately what I want anyway. Sorry to vent, but I'm David Just for those that don't know--the 350 will have 10:1 compression with 64cc heads, the cam specs to 214/224 @ .050", Weiand Stealth intake, Edelbrock (soon to be) carb, block huggers, and high performance HEI.

If you figure in the cost of the POR-15 (assuming you don't need it for much else) and your time, powder coating is a viable option. Your choice of color too! Thanks for suggesting that BLKMGK. David

Unfortunately, wheel styles are changing about as quickly as seasonal clothing styles nowadays. Tuff luck on the wheels because they look so good. Why don't you pick up a ricer magazine and look in there for some cool styles. AKT makes some nice ones that should work for our RWD applications. Do spacers bother you? David

No, Rough Idle is a good aquaintance of mine, Dennis R. His friend William is building that Cobra Z and was selling the 240Z. I never really looked closely at the car, but it looked decent. My 260Z is going bye bye Saturday and I'll be looking for a 240Z in the near future. If you end up with the black 240, make sure there is not rust if you end up doing a V8 conversion. It'll make things so much simpler. David By the way, no offense or anything, but I don't hang out much in ZCar.com because the format is just not appealing to me. I frequent ZDriver a bit and the moderators there are pretty cool guys--local too! [ May 18, 2001: Message edited by: DavyZ ]

This might be very messy, but you could let the amount of POR-15 puddle in the inner areas and physically "swish" it around in there, turning the whole crossmember over by hand--it's out of the car still, right? I know it's messy, but the coverage should be exceptional inside. Just food for thought. David

Terry, if you do...I'm interested. I like that look a lot! David

Thank you, RacerX for posting that information. I'll have to print it out and save it. The time will come when I'll roll the lips on all 4 fenderwells. It is great to have such a wealth of knowledge coming from all the members of this forum! David

Ray, I hate to see posts go unanswered, but I cannot help you. Does anyone know who ray might email about this question? I'm sure at least some of our members may know who to talk to or where to go for the answer. David

Good score! Especially if this really is a rebuilt motor, it should do you just fine. Congratulations on a decently priced motor. David

We would all love to see the install if you can post pictures! Sounds like it's a winner! I'm curious as to how much fabbing it takes to mount it. Are you using the current ducting, or are there different vents? David

They do? Lone do you own one of those things and do they work pretty well? I've seen them advertised, but they are too $$$ IMO. A Vericom (or like unit)computer has all of the functions I need and is much less. David

Uh, Mike has one of those cars... Mike, do you care to comment?

Mike kz posted that he has the Vintage Air system. I know they work, but I'm not sure of the cost--maybe $$$ but I'm sure they work the best. David

Haaahhaahahahaa!!! Man, Terry, I have "manly" tears coming out of both eyes after reading that! That wasFUNNY! David

Ross, that ebay sale was the guy I thought I saw in area--he had posted on Zdriver or one of the other ones. I think your idea is better. Check your email. David