DavyZ

Rich, there is no real answer for your question IMO because it comes down to personal choice. Here is a rundown of the cars and what needs to be done: 1) '70-'73 240Z If you go this route, rust free will be somewhat hard to find depending on where you are located. They all do have slim bumpers (yeah!!) and the later 240Z's ('72-'73) have the rear differential moved slightly for less rearend vibration. These are typically free from smog everywhere. You will have to replace the R180 with an R200 rear diff. 2) '74 260Z If you go this route, the early '74 cars have small bumpers like the 240Zs and are a little bit nicer inside IMO than the 240Zs. 260Z are a tad heavier than 240Zs, but are carbed cars nonetheless with less wiring to mess with than 280Zs. Rust can still be an issue here and you will still need to change out the R180 for an R200 rear diff. In CA, smog is an issue with every 260Z, period. 3) '75-'78(?) 280Z These are the strongest and heaviest 1st gen body-style cars. They are newer and probably are in the best overall condition, have the least rust, are relatively cheap, and are the nicest and quietest inside. Most came with R200 diffs (yeah!), but all came with large bumpers (doh!) that you will have to deal with. Replacing the bumpers can be expensive depending on how "factory" you want to go. Some guys get rid of the bumpers altogether...Smog is an issue in many states with these cars. Each car will need mods and there are advantages and disadvantages to each. With 450+ hp, it really won't matter which one you choose. The 280Z is probably best suited to handle that kind of power from a structural point of view. Hope this helps you. David

Dan, since I don't have my JTR manual in front of my, I'll take a few liberties at answering this question. Since no one else has taken a shot, here it goes: First, the 3/8" npt hole in your engine is obviously what you have to deal with. The idea, as I remember it, is to use the Datsun temp sender, which is smaller then the old 1/2" hole in the block. What size is the Datsun unit? If its smaller than the 3/8" hole in your block, your probably in luck and only have to get a bushing machined to fit. Otherwise, if it is too big for the 3/8" hole, you have to: 1) have a special adapter made to fit the block and the Datsun unit--even if it sticks out some from the block--I somehow remember someone doing this and running a brass elbow off the V8 and having a fitting for the temp sensor...seemed to work well from what I remember. The big issue is whether or not the sensor will work not being "inside" the block. Well, from what I remember, it did not make a marked bit of difference. This idea may have come from one of the Ford guys, but again, I can't remember. 2) find a smaller Nissan temp unit that would better fit the application. Hope this stirs your grey matter some and you overcome David

There doesn't seem to be any reason for not being able to do that--sounds like another variation of ram-air. The coolest looking ram air set up that I have ever seen was on a drag racing 60's something Buick Skylark. The guys had a sano sheetmetal system that was attached to the hood! When they opened the hood, off came the ram-air setup! Since everything was sheetmetal, the airflow was exceptionally smooth and went where it was supposed to.

Dust off that old micrometer and put it to good use! Sorry, Chap, but you nailed it the first time. David

I did vote. Bummer of a number, man!

Chocolate or vanilla? Your choice. You might want to go digital, which seems to be the trend--they (digital igns) offer more features, and most of the manufacturers, including MSD, are going to this set up.

Thanks, Mike. That was what I was hoping for. Although not to everyone's taste, I'll be shooting this stuff when the time comes. The actual brand name stuff is fairly pricey, and I would very much consider an alternative--if anyone knows of a good quality one, I'm all ears. Thanks. David

I was secretly wanting you to blow out your carb for $20, which I would have gladly paid...until you said it was warped. Did they say why it warped or what caused this to happen? David [ April 23, 2001: Message edited by: DavyZ ]

Thanks for the info and all the pictures--sure helps with this kind of thing! David

Tom, I am contemplating the same thing before I buy and believe that in addition to what you mentioned, the input shafts and output shafts are different. IMO the Ford seems to be a bit stronger than the Chevy, but you have to have it modified to fit. It was either Dark Horse Performance or Forte's that did the mods on Pete's tranny--look on his website and you'll find your answer. To me it comes down to a question of cost. After putting money into a Ford tranny, would I have been better off buying a T56???? Good luck. David

I really like the 3" single system I bought--mandrel bent all the way into a Y-pipe, immediately into a Borla stainless, out to the back of the car into a Dynomax Superturbo. Many may hate Dynomax, but I like the mufflers and their sound. It's the Flowmaster sound I can't get used to--too "hollow" sounding IMO.

Lone, your move on the driveshaft was strictly your decision and not a JTR advisement, right? What made you decide on the lumi shaft and not the steel one? More importantly: what did that sucker cost?!!? If it's not too bad, I may opt for one too... Thanks, David

If you look in the recent posts in this forum, we just discussed this smog issue in depth--I seriously doubt many will want to delve into this deeply anytime soon. Please know that I'm not being standoffish, just realistic. Smog law in CA: Engine must be same year as car or newer. All smog devices for the year of engine must be present and working. If your chassis came with a catalytic converter, you must have that too. 'Nuff said.

Pete, that information may be incorrect, but I heard it from one of his friends...so I ASSuMEd that he heard that from Hoover. Why don't we ask Hoover to set the record straight? Regards, David

quote: Originally posted by Owen: C'mon guys, let's protect the environment! Owen, I have no problem "protecting" the environment, but I do have a BIG problem with a schizophrenic government that will not let cars reasonably be free from smog requirements when they are 25 years or older! They make a law, pass it, then want to reconsider???? Pathetic! No one can expect things like catalytic converters to work, even after 10 years. Cars like my '74 Z are still required to pass smog? Stupid really....I drive this thing maybe 1000 miles a year if that. It probably hurts the environment more sitting in front of my house leaking oil residue onto the street then polluting the air when it drives. I'm sorry, but as I said, common sense is not so common anymore.

I was at the last Datsun meet in Palo Alto, CA a few weeks ago and saw a few cars (Zs, 510s) with engine compartments sprayed with what looks like Zolotone paint. The stuff looks like high build "spatter" type paint and has a nice effect in that it draws your eyes away from the boring engine compartment sheetmetal and you focus on the "important" stuff like the engine, braided steel hoses, etc. The question remains in mind--how good is this stuff in terms of wear? Is it tough? Anyone here use it? If I am contemplating using this stuff, should I go with the name brand or get the generic stuff? This looks to be a solution for me, because it will hide engine compartment blemishes and I won't have to pay extra to get the engine compartment painted by the body shop when the whole car is painted. Opinions please! David

Can we get a picture pretty pleeeease?

That car is a "Primadonna" that was supposed to be the way a "Scarab" would have ended up if the buyer would do all the mods. Yes, the car is very impressive in real life--nicely done I might add--and is owned by Hoover, who posts in this Forum. Hoover's car has a bit of historical value. I do prefer Terry's car, which is a totally custom, one-off production with awesome engineering to match. A bit more up to date IMO. David

Apparently the part of the law that says after 30 years old, the cars will be exempt may be rescinded by the CA State legislature. I read about it in DRIVE! magazine. That is the best place to get info on how our state gov't (and environmental groups) is trying to screw us through the smog laws. Those freak smog checks and random sampling checks give me the heebee jeebees... Sometimes I love CA, sometimes I HATE it! Common sense is so uncommon now a days. David

Welcome to the Forum! Has this car been smog certified before the conversion? If it has, the State puts a metal "sticker" on the driver's door jam with the "new" specs of the car and this allows you to get a smog check anywhere. If this car has not been smog certified with the conversion, this is what you have to do: The car must have an engine that is the same year of the car or newer. The engine has to have all smog devices on it for it's year of manufacture. A 74 motor would need PCV, exhaust manifold with the proper AIR injectors, etc. If your '74 Zcar came with a catalytic converter, you must have one as well--I don't think they did, so you luck out there. You will have to take this car to a CA State referee station, not a "smog shop" like the local gas station, and undergo a visual and sniffer test. They will tell you why or why not you don't pass. If you don't pass, you will have to comply with their list of "to do's"; or if you do pass, then they issue you the "engine change" metal i.d. sticker as I indicated above and you are home free so to speak and can then get your car smogged anywhere from then on. The JTR manual has great information on this stuff and so does the State of Calif--use your browser. Hope this helps! David

Well, I couldn't pull up the picture, but I was there... You can have your Z as low as you want it to be, but you will want to take into consideration the oilpan clearance from the ground. It becomes crucial in a V8Z since the oilpan (from a Chevy anyway) is within anywhere from 2-4 inches from the ground on a typical set up. There have been numerous threads in the forum that have dealt with this issue of "oilpan clearance." Search the archives. I, like you, want a low Z and a V8--I want my cake and eat it too!!!

quote: Originally posted by Drax240z: I think thats ingenious rather than cheap. Nah, I think it's just cheap ingenuity! David

Roamer, blueovalz (Terry) and alsil (Al), have pretty complete information on their cars--both are running Fords and have done the swap independently of each other. Look for a post of Al's and his link will be in there. For Terry's information, you'll have to go to Zhome and look for the info there. Hope this helps--otherwise email either of them and I'm sure they'll help you out.

Jeff Rimmer: The 383 was "underpowered" compared to the 300?!? I'm totally shocked! A 383 has enough stump pulling torque to twist a unibody and smoke the hides for days. I can't believe you actually said that, unless your setup was an exception? What's the deal???? Scarp: If you have the bucks, a force fed LT1 or LS1 would be sooo sweet. Heck, you bought that thing for a song, but money does not grow on trees. You are, however, safer in that "modern" car as opposed to the older series you once had, so maybe putting some good cash into it is worth it after all? David

Ross, I am using the stock motor mounts as recommended by JTR. They cite that smoothness was the priority and said nothing regarding any possibility of failure due to (extreme) use. As you know, my conversion is not quite there yet, but I am reasonably sure the stock mounts are the way to go if smoothness is a concern--and it is for you and me... For the amount of horsepower you are running, the stock mounts should be more then sufficient. For very high HP applications, a urethane mount or solid mount (for all out racing applications) might be better because it is stiffer and also have a guarantee against failure if I'm not mistaken. Hope this helps. David