Ansel Marrow

sorry for the late reply. Yeah I mixed up the herc with a paint mixing tool and a drill. Here are the finished pics. Came out great if I do say so myself. Yeah, but Id have to GET the car to the sheet metal shop for them to do welding on it. And my boss would probabaly charge me. JB weld rocks too. Like solid steel almost. Before After

Cool, ill go ahead and wire it using a single wire. I bought a new starter, and I have some questions that arent so clear in my wiring kit wiring diagrams. Does a thick wire go fro mthe starter to here or what? I couldu se a simple drawing of the wiring from the batt, to starter, to ignition. I looked here and on google for about 2 hours, no clear drawings. [/url] I have sort of an idea of what happens here, any ideas on what to do here exactly with these will help. I am confident it is self explanatory. Thanks in advance.

You could just send those flares to me, I dont have any. Seriously though, those are really cool looking. Would you mold them into the bodywork or bolt them on?

Im going to tackle the lights today, to ground the wire I just run it anywhere on the cars body? Ill probabaly opt for inside the engine bay. Theres an alternator exiter wire, its ultra thick, and I dont know where it should go. Im going to document this with pictures tonight or tomorrow. Thanks for the help Mike, is there also one wire to the temperature sending unit? Going to re-route all of those wires. The temp sending wire is ultra thick though, I would like to know if I could cut it and re-sodder it together again. Pics tonight.

EDIT: i can remove it, but its 25 lbs and too un-weildy. Id have to remove the header to work with it in any fashion. Im looking at this one. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=011&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=320083679600&rd=1,1 7.5lbs is WAAYY easier to handle than 25lbs. This one look any good? So mike, i dont add a ground wire? I assume I just hook it up since its a sending wire? Thanks.

Update: I found the oil pressure sending unit, its just one wire coming from around the distributor area? With a brass cylinder coming out of the intake manifold if Im not mistaken. Im buying a smaller starter, I cant remove the old one to wire it, and the space is too tight to allow for much room (hell I spent 2 hours once just trying to put it back on). Any reccomendations for mini-starters? I laid out all of the wires, but the weather was too cold for me to be able to focus clearly. Ill try to get some pics up soon.

hey all, im diving straight into this, so basically i have a few questions... where is the oil pressure sender? i have a sbc 305. Anything special i need to know about before i hook up the starter motor? i have it off of the car at the moment. do i need to tighten the bolts down with a torque wrench? any notes at all will be appreciated. ill probabaly develop a few more questions during the weekend as I move along in progress. thanks in advance. without this place i wouldent even attempt a feat like this by myself. with the community helping out, im sure it wont be as difficult as it would be solo. justin

I know a few people here dont like the prima z, but I do simply because of the outrageousness and uniqueness of them. Thanks for the story, these cars make me feel like im a 4 year old by looking at them.

Good god, thats enough for me to scrap the whole car. Congrats on having the courage to continue working on it. It will make it that much sweeter when the car is finished.

I think the car looks hot, and I love the wheels.

This one is WAAAYYY cooler. Heavy louvered 50s style. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=001&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=110092879776&rd=1,1

Very exited to try this. Probabaly go get the paint this weekend. Does anyone know if they make rechargable battery powered orbital sanders? EDIT: car is 50+ feet from an outlet, but ill just get an ext cord since the batt ones dont last too long. Thanks.

Ah, I see. I just like the idea of an impenetrable clear coat, because no one wants to spend $1k+ on a nice paint job and have it get chipped by rocks etc. This seems like a good alternative.

If you used it on your z, there would be no way of going back. I assume its really chip-resistant? I wonder if you could get a high gloss, then clearcoat it for a nice deep color? Im interested.

Bedliner went down EASY this weekend. Did 2 coats, nice and thick. Ill have pics up later this week, maybe in 2 days. The before and after are astounding. The jb weld worked great, I filled the gaps. You cant even tell them panel is in there, it looks so smooth. One thing you guys are going to hate is, I couldent take up the tool kit covers (the bolts were rusted in pretty badly) so I osphoed them in and herculined over the little hatches. I wont be needing the space, and If i REALLY have to get into them, Ill just cut them open from behind the seat. I work in a metal shop, so Im having a stainless steel console/ac control panel made, with new switches for wiring, horn, cd player etc. Ill make a progress thread on it. Thanks for the advice guys, now this weekend the whole car gets rewired!

I tried pop rivets. Maybe in stil new to them, but it felt kinda loose when I used them. thus, I went with small bolts, and it holds down really well. Ill try jb weld tonight, and if I cant find any, ill go with the panel bond. After the bedliner and the carpet on top, no one will notice im sure. Im still treating the inside minor spots with ospho, and cleaning the whole interior with acetone, then ill do the jb weld then bedliner. how well does herculiner/bedliner sound insulate the car? really well or sortof well? I spent 2 hours taking up that crappy old insulation, so Im wondering if i will lose insulation after i add i nthe bedliner becuase i removed it.

...I need to fill in a few holes. Theres one near where the seatbelt bolts in, and a small area of rust that I cut out in the passenger side floorboard, that I bolted in a new peice of steel. I was considering using caulk, or silicone to seal it up watertight, then using the herculiner. Would the herculiner be enough to seal it? or would it be better off if I used the silicone or some other sealant?

I also have one of those shifters, i like how it feels when cruising. It is pretty solid.

Devilish! Some questions... Did they mask the car or did you do it yourself to save money? Is there clear coat on the car? Could I get a similar paint job for about a grand, if I did sanding and masking myself? Thanks, and AWESOME looking front end.

Yeah, and how much do you want for it? I dont want the mounting holes visible, and I want something that matches the lines of the car. So at the moment, I might keep the msa one, or order a xenon one for now. Anyone who wants to pitch a sale to me is welcome.

I got fed up with my old wiring (turn signals went out then other things like all the lights stopped working) so I ordered a keep it clean wiring kit. Ill be re-doing the whole car after I line the interior with bedliner. The peace of mind in knowing my car will be all new wires is great. Junking the old wires (which had burned in some places, and had tons of wires leading to nothing) was a smart thing to do. You might consider re-wiring just because itll save you headaches further down the road.

Tax return time, might want to get rid of the MSA bumper (perfectly fine but need something more unique). Any links, or if you have something unique that youd liek to part with for a 76 280z, Id be eager to check it out.

why work on it for 3 years to sell it? keep it for a decade to enjoy.

I drooled all over this car when i was on ebay. I wanted to rob a bank to buy it... Totally gorgeous.