quickdraw

It's turning over and running a nistune modified z31 board. Turned out to be fouled plugs. Replaced those and it fired right up. I guess the autozone fuel pressure gauge was bad which is weird and cost me an extra fuel pump. So I have a perfectly good Walbro inline 255 if anyone's itching for one. The larger issue turns out is that brand new plugs got fouled after 4K miles. Pretty sure the valve seals are bad on the RB. It answer the question on why it stopped running immediately after I overfilled the oil, explains the white smoke and the oil shooting out the tail pipe under hard acceleration (newly discovered). Fun. Anyone bored and want to help rebuild an rb in Denver? I was going to do a stock internal upgrade at some point so...while I'm in there...

Fingers crossed.

oh...I missed that. Definitely gauge not regulator. Confirmed power at the pump with the multimeter. Swapped out the fuel pump today and have pressure again but still not firing. The plugs are pretty dirty. So, going to swap those out tomorrow.

Nope...just one regulator.

Thanks for all of that. I just confirmed the correct location on the pressure gauge a ran a quick inline test on the regulator. It seems the pumps is bad. It seems odd given it's age but I've confirmed power

I've got an rb25det series 1 swapped into my 280z. I swapped in the motor, checked compressions and installed the fuel delivery among other things but wasn't comfortable with the turbo install, wiring and tune. So, I had HoustonZ do that work when I still lived in Houston. The car has run amazing for the last year...even on a high-speed road rally and a bunch of aggressive twisty driving since I've moved to Denver. Last weekend I pulled the car out of the garage to do some work on the garage itself. When I went to move the car back in it fired up quickly as it always has it died about 5 second in and hasn't started since. This is my least capable area on the vehicle so I'm doing the youtube/home mechanic approach to troubleshooting with no success on identifying the problem: I'm getting spark. I pulled cylinder #1 plug and watch for the spark, check. When you turn on the key to on, the fuel pump sounds like it kicks on, check. When you attempt to crank it, it won't turn over and I hear a click, click, click noise from the pump area. After that I smell fuel towards the rear of the car. Not sure if that was always the case on start. I got a fuel pressure regulator from autozone, and tested the fuel pressure at the fuel rail (opposite end from the regulator) and no pressure. It's a stock Rb rail. Am I supposed to have pressure on attempted crank? If so, I'm not getting any. If I just hold the rubber fuel lines under attempted crank there's not a consistent pressure on the line...more of a pulsing feeling. I pulled out the multimeter to check the fuel pump- red wire on the positive and black on the frame 0.0 V with the key turned to the on position. Does that mean the pump's bad? Next up is to unflood the engine just to make sure but that doesn't seem right and check the voltage at the pump with someone cranking. Seems like a bad fuel pump but it's new with 4K miles on it. So, odd. Anything else you guys would recommend checking?

Give it two more weeks. I sent her off for wiring.

Come on over. This wouldn't have anything to do with a road rally plot would it?

Thanks. It's been a lot of fun getting here

www.facebook.com/redux I've been busy...

Good to know. It seems I have some unexpected difficulty with most phases of my build

Thanks

Thanks guys. I'll check it out.

When I put together my build specs about 9 months ago I made note of a $300 custom steel driveshaft that someone recommended. I cannot find the bookmark for that company and searching has turned up nothing so far. I'm aware of the McKinney and Raw Brokerage options but they're more expensive. What are you guys using for your driveshafts? Rb25/r200

Couple of pics for reference

Thanks everyone. I'm going to try the spacers first

I paid $1700. Took three months to get here but given the ataraa aren't much less it seemed like the right way to go. I love them. Thanks Miles. I think I'll try the spacer first. I'm a little nervous about grinding the calipers

Need some help on a fitment issue with my 15x10.5j Wats with s12+8 caliper fitment issue. The inner edge of the wheels are preventing the wheels from being bolted on flush and ultimately the calipers are at fault. I'm assuming machining calipers is not a good idea. Is that also true for the info de of the week? I'd prefer to avoid any machining if possible. Any insights into the width of the s12w calipers (or other setups) and its ability to sit behind these wheels without any issue?

Btw... I'm scared I'm going to screw something up too.

Small world. I'm off gosling and flintridge. If you ever need a hand let me know

Thanks. Rebekah z...good point on how we got here but its a bit disappointing to pay for something that could easily be manufactured to fit...oh well. Bend it is

Texis...are your flares the JPN garage flares?

Would love some feedback on the JPN garage wide flares. The fronts that arrived fit fine. The rears however are too wide at the opening by at least two inches. I contacted JPN and the response was bend them. And they were made that way so people could put wider wheels (which doesn't make sense). And further he checked with the group that made them and they indicated that's how they are and no one has ever complained. Am I losing my mind or missing something with these?

The video you put on facebook above. Cool car...those wheels are huge!

The video you put on facebook above. Cool car...those wheels are huge!