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Posts posted by CrayZ
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soooooooo basically which picture is the correct insatllion procedure?
AND if it was wrong would it be the reason it looks like this?
I was not able to tell much a difference in legth from the two different ways i installed them. Thanks in advance guys.
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This is my question. The previous owner stated that he installed the "races backwards" does that mean that the snap ring groove on the "race" (im calling it) needs to be flopped around? this is how it is currently setup at the moment.
the second picture is the wheel side of the shaft. That side of the shaft is intact. The snap ring groove is on the outer most side closet to the wheelas you can see. Both of the races are setup in this configuration. Im wondering if they needed to be swapped from the get go? snap ring groove closer to the middle of the axle on both ends?
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What do you mean by "axle pullout is bad" and how do you know? I've only read one account of a CV axle pulling out and it only did it once because the balls came out of the cage(?) and destroyed themselves.
Probably best to describe what type of axle you have, 4 bolt or 6 bolt (MM makes a conversion for both), and if you have the MM parts or are asking about them.
I think that those are VLSD axles. 6 bolt 280ZX axles are 3 sets of paired holes. You probably have the shortnose R200 setup from MM.
There is a link within this link that shows an install. It might give you some ideas. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=74&PHPSESSID=9e25b7fab3e9baf204ae3aa017e3d66f
Here's the link - http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/mm_gallery.php?album=2008+March+Proto+Q45+R200+Mounting+Proven+Brian+G/
It used to have text with it explaining the pictures but they're gone now. Somewhere out there is probably another web page with more details.
Edit - pretty sure that you have to have custom axles made for this conversion. The Q45 or 300ZX axles are too long. Maybe someone got their measurements wrong.
I think you are correct. the link you sent me looks like what i have.
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Just bought it and im unfamiliar with this whole car in general so please be patient with me. It "came" with MM appearently. They are 6 bolt.
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tore it apart and this is what i found.. any idea how this happens and anyway to prevent it? anyone know a good place to find a new one?
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Before the CV axles can be installed, they must be shortened slightly. This is accomplished by tapping down on the flange on one end until the cover plate pops off:
Then remove the circlip, place some tape around the ball bearings so that they don’t fall out, reverse the ball assembly on the shaft, and finally reinstall the circlip:
The end cap then can be tapped back on, and the shafts are ready to install.
I dug this up on another website and was curious if this relevant to my issue. He shortened the half shaft so could i lengthen them so they are not pulling out?
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can anyone enlighten me on this converstion. I just bought slammed 68's lq4/280 and the axle pull out is BAD, which i expected but im going to tear into it this afternoon and am looking for a little bit of guidance/do's/dont's/watch out etc. Im completely new to Z's and independent rear suspensions. This will be a learning lesson for me and the begining of a loooooong road with this car.
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any updates on this?
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I started a bid war for the job and the cheapest ive seen is $730 i guess i might have to go that route, thanks for all the help
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The only thing stopping me from driving it is the fact that it is sitting on 12 year old tires.. It will get a fresh set of new wheels and tires as soon as it gets to houston but I don't want to purchase tires twice.
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Ive actually used uship before, I had a good experience with them. What is the deal with shipping wars?
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hey guys im going to be driving up to california to pick up a 71 here in the next couple of days and i am deciding if i want to drive it back or throw it on a hauler. Does anyone know a good company? It needs to go from anaheim to houston, tx
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cool build, thinking about doing a rb swap on mine and this is just the kind of build thread i would need to do so.
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I take that back fenders are oem
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Buying a 77 in great shape "from the pictures" going to look at it Sunday and I am looking for advice on what to look for. I'm new to older cars and Z's so any and all advice is appreciated. I've already been told to take a pencil magnet with me to check for bondo but I think the owner has upgraded the fenders to fiberglass. Anyways let me know what you guys think. Oh and it is a California car so rust should be very minimal.
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So i just got in contact with "RIPS" and i got a quote for a 600 hp RB30 right at around 10 grand. This sounds doable but i cant help but think i could get it done for cheaper.. i have a buddy with a rb25det second gen for 1500 lying around and this comes with everything i need tranny wiring etc. why not just buy the block and start swapping what needs to be swapped?
again i am pretty new to the rb30's is it as easy as slapping a 25 head on a 30 block upgrading fuel and turbo and poof 600 hp? im sure it's not but how close is it?
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how cool would it be if you actualy found it.. im gonna stick around and see where this goes
Q45 VLSD tearing up cages
in Drivetrain
Posted
MODS, maybe this would be best suited for the drivetrain section? sorry