CrayZ
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Posts posted by CrayZ
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I have an aftermarket FPR and when I cycle the key it jumps to 50 or so and within 20 seconds settles down to 20 psi. I'm pretty sure the injectors are leaking.
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My tuner in fort worth is $200 for a tune but with fuel in the exhaust from a cold start you sure you dont have leaky injectors? I had an injector stick open fill a cylinder with gas which ended up snapping a rod the next time i started it.
Hydro lock.. Man that scares the shit out of me. How can you check for leaky injectors?
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If n fact you are local. I assumed so by rebekahs post
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If in in fact you are local. I'm assumed so by rebekahs post
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Welcome! Good to see another local V8z I've been meeting quite a few guys lately. We should all get together once this thing is operational. I'm still pretty new to Z's and gm motors but I've learned quite a bit lately. Let me know if you need any help.
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I just want to say wow, I spoke with Edan this morning about a stage 4 rear kit and drilled/slotted rotors for the front and it shipped out 8 hrs later with a tracking number.. That is how you do business!
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Geez I bet it's loud
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Yeah, I'm trying to get my exhaust done but the dang tranny crossmember and the diff just won't budge to give me more ground clearance so I'm raising car back up an inch. On the 8th day God created coilovers! If only he had created automatic self-adjusting toe in I'd be golden. .
Is your exhuast side exit?
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Local big shot tuner here in houston quoted me $500 for a full work dyno tune and $75 for any adjustments after that. Might just got that route seeing as my knowledge on tunning is VERY minimal
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What "spare" wheels are you guys using? Im curious what are common wheels that can be used for a burnouts, slicks, yada yada. Common sizes from vehicles that can be had for cheap and have worked well for you guys in the past.
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Well I launched the car at 2k last night and everything has held together. Locking those stars into place and adding spacers has seemed to keep everything in place for now. Thanks a lot for all who chimmed in
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I would like to run a tune on my lq4. Been looking at HPtuners but I really don't want to spend extra money to have someone unlock my PCM. Can EFI live tuners work the PCM without having to buy credits to unlock the pcm? Anyone in houston area tune there own car? I'm looking for options local to me first but don't mind sending off my PCM to get worked. Anyone have any good info on this? I'm getting a hard start and what sounds like fuel in the exhuast on startup. Hoping a better tune can sort this out for me.
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My lq4 has a cobalt map sensor (previous turbo car) now it is back to N/A. I'm getting some dead spots in the throttle and a hard start 90% of the time. Curious if this cobalt map sensor could be giving me trouble?
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Your new snap ring groove is how the factory ZXT axles are done. it's a double-thick groove to hold a double-thick circlip in place, the clip has a square cross-section. the outer clip is a regular snap ring on the outer CV and a round-wire push-in clip on the inner, but you *really* have to push hard to get it to compress into place.
I think your inner bearing races are pushing up on the shafts and shortening your axles up.
I hope so too, well see in a couple hours
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maybe we should try measuring from the to of the mustace bushing to the centerline of the bolt?
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Here are a few things I see and I hate that I can't compare to my car right now:
Strut tubes do not look like they were welded straight "plum"
The stock uprights look bent towards the rear of the car
The "homemade" cage looks like it mounts the nose of the diff downward - I def can't see over the top of my diff.
Take measurements of the rocker to the ground, diff mount bolt that is in the ttt MS bar to ground.
I took a look at rags car today which has the 280zxt axle setup and with the car on the ground the rear control arm is almost parallel to the ground and the angle of the axle from cv adapter to diff is small. Your angle of the axle looks like my car at full droop.
[img=http://evilz.smugmug.com/Cars/Clive-Bogle/i-jrjqcWR/0/X2/EvilZ%20(15)-X2.jpg]
You are correct the dif is slightly pointing downward. I was actually told that this was a good thing.. Supposedly drag car do this in order to compensate the dif being torqued upwards on hard launches. I have no idea if that is legit or not..
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I measured the car height (lowest part of the rocker panel) I'm assuming is the pinch weld. My car measures 6" clearance. From the bottom of the bolt in the mustache bar to the ground measures 11 3/4" I talked with techno tunning and they said they make two mustache bars. One that requires the frame to be notched and one that does not.The diff should be positioned slightly back from the wheel hub. This was moved slightly back by Datsun in 72. I just some measurements on my car. My ride height at the back of the rocker in front of the rear wheels is 7 inches from the bottom of the pinch weld to the ground. I run 18"350Z wheels which also plays a part in where the hub sits in realtion to the ground. I also took a measurement from the ground to the diff mounting bolts. There I have 12 5/8" between the ground and the bottom of the bolt that comes through the mustache bar. I'd take measurements on your car and compare them to mine. I'm sure you are going to find that your diff is much closer to the ground than mine. Joe -
I'm going to take a bunch of measurements here shortly
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Just took a look at your newest vid - your diff is mounted too low! You can see right over the top of it in the vids. I will be able to go into details later with pics but for sure the diff is too low.
But how??? The TTT mount is where it is designed to be. Not to mention there is only 1" of clearance between the top of the diff and the body.. The only way it could go higher is if the diff was mounted forward, which goes against factory design
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You might find these helpful...
http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/25809-r230-conversion-shafts/?hl=end+stops#entry199781
http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/56198-q45-diff-swap-axle-problem/?hl=end+stops#entry511199
http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/75896-axle-stop-mm-q45-diff-problem/?hl=end+stops#entry722446
Thank you
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Side note: modifications I made to the axles
I originally tried to cut it for one snap ring but these axles are made out of some SERIOUSLY strong stuff so I had to switch up the cutting tip. Double snap rings should work fine though.
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The diff should be positioned slightly back from the wheel hub. This was moved slightly back by Datsun in 72.
I just some measurements on my car. My ride height at the back of the rocker in front of the rear wheels is 7 inches from the bottom of the pinch weld to the ground. I run 18"350Z wheels which also plays a part in where the hub sits in realtion to the ground. I also took a measurement from the ground to the diff mounting bolts. There I have 12 5/8" between the ground and the bottom of the bolt that comes through the mustache bar.
I'd take measurements on your car and compare them to mine. I'm sure you are going to find that your diff is much closer to the ground than mine.
Joe
Thanks joe, ill check when I get home. For te time being here is a video overview of my rear end.. No pun intended lol
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What difference does it make how long the strut tube is if the ride hight is correct? Reading back through this thread it looks like the angle of deflection on the axle is too great with the diff side being way to low at ride height. The only way this can occur is if the ride height in the back of the car is incorrect and the ass of the car is dragging on the ground or the diff is mounted incorrectly and is way to low.
Joe
Another question I've been trying to get an awnser to is if the diff is suppose to be mounted slightly further back. Not only are the angles on the axles sharply pointing down wards but they are pointed back as well. The flange that comes off of the dif is not perfectly in line with the hub flange. With the driver wheels off (looking at the dif from inside the wheel well) you can clearly see that the dif sits further back taking the two flanges out of line. Thisight be normal, I don't know. Also if this diff is incorrectly mounted I would be amazed as the bracket that holds the rear of the diff to the frame is TTT I believe there is only one way to be mounted. Is there any other way the diff could be mounted wrong? Adjustment? Different mounting places?
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John I really appreciate your help. This Z community is great! You all have been a big help so far. I will do my best to get all of the required info tonight after work. For now I can give you what he told me. He did the sectioning himself. The shocks are tokico 5 ways and the spring rate is "whatever ground control re commented" appearently it is a popular rate found on hybridZ forums? Is there a way I can find out otherwise?
John I really appreciate your help. This Z community is great! You all have been a big help so far. I will do my best to get all of the required info tonight after work. For now I can give you what he told me. He did the sectioning himself. The shocks are tokico 5 ways and the spring rate is "whatever ground control recommended" appearently it is a popular rate found on hybridZ forums? Is there a way I can find out otherwise?
EFI Live
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
Can a simple o ring change fix this or is it an internal issue in the injector?