CrayZ
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Posts posted by CrayZ
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Full droop no spacer:
Fully compressed no spacer:
Full drop W/Spacer:
Fully compressed W/Spacer:
No idea why it is grinding down the hub side stop and no idea how the bearings could be making there way past the ring on the hub side.. The diff side seems to be intact.. I know it is a bit hard to see in the last video but IMO the ball bearing really dont even get close to the where the clip would be. Now i did not take the springs out so there could be more travel but not more than 1/2" I just dont think there would be enough to allow the bearings to come past the c clip..
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Cruising around town it runs around 190-200. It will reach 210 sitting at traffic. I'm pretty sure the fan is permenetly on.. I still think I might have an issue. I'm going to do another oil change and check for coolant when I eat this damn rear end squared away.
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Oh and I can't seem to keep a set of rubber boots together.. Is this not an immediate sign that the angle of the driveshafts is to steep?
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Quick question. If the wheel is fully compressed Inside the wheel well (axle being at its shortest) how will I know the proper clearance? When sliding the axle left and right will the axle hit the hub side bump stop before the diff side bearings reach the c clip? Is that how I know they are the proper length? Is there a certain formula or distance the opposing ball bearings need to be from the c clip when the axle has reached the opposite bump stop?
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I wish I had a local shop or someone with experience with these rear ends local to me.
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I think the best options is to take the springs out and reinstall the axles with boots off to watch the travel and where the bearings are.. You guys are right I just need to take a little time and do some looking.
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My diff
MM
If its a simple as raising the diff a little higher and using the axles I have I would be all ears. The MM setup looks like it put the diff higher
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I'm starting to think the diff might be mounted to low causing an extreme angle and unwanted stress.
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I'm about fed up with this r230 diff and custom axles. Does anyone know a good shop in houston that has experience with converted S30's and the like?
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I think some people call it the "star wheel" or something like that. But in bearing terms I think that it is the cage and race combined.
Maybe the stops are there more to keep the axle from moving far enough to let the balls out of their "cage". Axle with "cage" moves (too far), balls get left behind, come out of cage, get stuck between cage and circlip, circlip pops out on the reverse movement. There is probably a critical relationship between the cage, cup, stops, circlips and cage/star position on the shaft. The balls should never be able to come out of their spot between cup and cage/star, but yours might be. Hard to tell what happens first but you might be able to work the joint with the shaft off the car and figure it out. I would guess that the stops should have been taller.
As far as the stops getting worn down, if you take a compass to the drawing in the FSM, draw some lines and take some measurements you'll see that the drive shaft is most extended with the wheels hanging, and most compressed with them up. You might not have needed that spacer at all, and your problem was the stops all along. The spacer may have destroyed your stops. Sorry I didn't suggest this sooner, you could have at least considered it and taken some measurements on the car.
Even with the spacer in place and wheels hanging I had between 1/8"-1/4" gap in between the companion flange and cup. From what I've read this is the sweet spot. That would have meant when the car is on the ground I have about 1/2" maybe more of axle movement. Is this not what is needed? I'm not sure I understand your logic of the stops needing to be longer. In my mind it would have only made the grinding worse and axle travel less.
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Your setup is custom. There is no normal. That said, the CV joints can can handle quite a bit of misalignment as long as there is no binding.
Have you verified that the axles don't bind thru the entire range of suspension motion?
What is te best way to verify this?
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This is the passenger side, that is "intact" for now.. This angle is just makes me concerned, Is this normal?
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clearly the stops are chewed up
Not sure what you call the part that holds the ball bearings and rides inside the cage.. well it has worked it's way down the driveshaft and wedged itself there..
Once the spacers where in place (hub side on both wheels) the axles had about 1/2" movement give or take from left to right. The part that im confused on is this. IF they are still to short why are the stops chewed up? would that not indicate that they where to long? and if that where the case why are they pulling out of the cups again? Im confused.. incase anyone was wondering the spacers difered .200 from one side to the other. The passenger side seems to be ok for now, But i can hear what seems to be grinding on left hand turns (im assuming it is the shaft grinding down the stops) and there is a clicking noise on left hand turns
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I wanted to pull the axles. I have a R200 LSD now. I just secured one. I am going to use the halfshafts that were with it on a 280z until I destroy them....... which with me it is a matter of time.....
Well at least they work for now.. I can't get these axles to work to save my life..
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Well I swapped the spacers out to the hubs and everything was going fine untill boom.. Snap ring came out ball bearings MIA.. I don't know what else to do here.. I'm about to say screw it and throw a 9" under it... I'm open to other options as well
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I THINK in the stock LS vehicle, the low-speed fan comes on at 210 and the high speed fan doesn't come on until 239. If you only have one fan, it is usually wired to the low-speed wire. I think these engines were made to run hot.
Couple guys on LS1 tech confirmed this. Thanks!
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well you guys where right. I filled up the jackets and let it run without the radiator cap on it for about 20 min and it stabilized around 196-201 degrees (very slowly climbing after that) I still feel like its running a little hot for my taste. Any suggestions to bring the temps down to say 190?
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the strange thing is that is happened right after i had the exhuast made for it..
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codes:
p0480
p0481
p1258
I replaced the water pump, thermostat and did a full flush. The car overheats within 4 min..I have no clue what else it could be. The fan comes on when i cycle the key and stays on untill i turn the engine off Although This is how it behaved when i got it. There is a single 14" electric fan that pulls plenty of air.
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Spacers are causing the bearing cups to rub the control arms.. I'm going to have to install them on the hub side.
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Well i got the spacers made! bad news is I ordered the wrong bolts.. I ordered 10/1.0/45mm and thats not correct. Hopefully i can find a set locally when i get off tomorrow. Any idea what the thread pitch is?
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Doing work on these spacers, Almost done.
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I want the whole back half with everything.... I need to do a full conversion and would like to pull something all together.
I have thought about stopping by some of the places there off of Shepherd and 45/hardy... I just don't know how good they are
I mean they have the whole rear end minus the axles.. What else would you need Besides the diff and axles?
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What side of town are you on? I am in the beginning stages of a LS conversion...... ( yes I sold off all of my L-series motors and turbos)
I wanted to buy this car but you beat me to it...good to see it local.
I will keep an eye on what you do as it will effect me directly. Good luck.
Where did you pick up the parts? I am looking for a back half of at Q45
Cypress, your more than welcome to come by and take a look etc. I don't mind in helping you out. Hell I'd be learning just as much as you as I didn't do the swap. I know where a dif is for 200 bucks.. I just bought the axles off of it a couple days ago
Q45 VLSD tearing up cages
in Drivetrain
Posted
Yup, They rounded off the ends of the cups.. The rear end is solid as a rock. It just doesnt make sense to me.. hub side bump stop chweed to crap AND the cup was rounded off..