CrayZ

After looking at it i didnt think there was anyway to get an exhuast pipe to sit higher than the oil pan (in between the manifold and starter) but it looks like it is possible. Im hoping with my car being as low as it is it will still work.

I hear you, I guess i should have been more specific. I want to get it past the driver seat. I dont mind dumping it before the diff. If it really came down to it thought i wouldnt mind running 3" all the way to the diff and just re-using my 2.5 bend to rap around the diff. Im not after any crazy numbers or specific track times. I really just want a streetable 500-550 rwhp turbo v8 car that turns some heads and puts you in your seat. My main concern up to this point was finding a way to get the exhuast under the passenger manifold and in between the starter on its way towards the rear of the car. On another note i just read that thread all the way through and i REALLY like what he did.. the whole setup is super clean and basic... I mean that is literally exactly what im looking for in a turbo setup. I wish to hell he was still on line so i could bug the crap out of him about wherehe got and what all of the materials cost him..

Thanks, The more i think about it the more i dont want my exhuast dumping anywhere but the rear of the vehicle. Ive even considered a supercharger becuase of this but really want to stick with a turbo. I really like what this guy has done. I wish i could get someone to duplicate it for me. If not ill try my hand at it but my time is very limited

Has anyone fabricated a kit or have pictures of a kit that is still able to run the exhuast out back? I really don't want to run the exhuast out of the fender.

Thanks for the data

Spent all damn day tracing down one wire lol

Problem solved.. Power wore to the stator came loose.

Did some more tests. I disconnected the + wire that feeds current to the battery from the alternator. I then started the engine and measured the voltage coming off the alternator and I'm getting a reading of .50 volts. It should cranking out 13-14v right out of the back of the alternator correct?

I ran the negative terminal (ground) from the battery straight to the motor so this thing is properly grounded and I still can't get it to run or say 13-14vts on the posts while the engine is running.

Ok strange problem I'm having.. The alternator is putting out 11.38 volts but the battery is only reading 11.92-12.0 while engine is running and alternator is charging. Isn't it suppose to be in the high 13's to 14's? Alternator is brand new and is clearly working with the sub 12 volts coming off te back of it. Just ran a fresh new driver side ground. The ground coming off of the battery is ran to the fender.. Anyone else running the battery ground to the fender? Seems like a bad spot to me.

Guess it wouldn't hurt. Ill be up there today anyways

Well the alternator just went bad so I'm replacing that Tommorow as well as checking the ground so well see what happens after that. I've never really checked to see if a starter was bad or not.. Just kind of waited till it stop starting.

I agree that the power can be made for cheaper but I just don't see myself being satisfied for long at 450-500.. Once you go with that higher compression setup your stick with it.. I will probably be dropping it off at powerfab Saturday morning to have a precition 71mm fitted. I'm looking at 520-550 on a low boost tune (plenty of room to grow when I want to build the bottom end) I can have it turn key out the door with custom manifolds/tune/exhuast the whole 9 yards for around 6k

I spoke with TSP about some heads yesterday and they wanted almost 4k for fully dressed heads/cam/gaskets/studs.. That's all good and well but I just can't see myself spending 4k for 100rwhp when I know a turbo kit can be made for less and power be in the 550 range

The problem comes and goes but is fairly consistent. Now with a fresh battery when I crank it over the first couple revolutions are slow but then fires up normally. With the old battery it will crank VERY slow with the engine barely turning over the first couple of revolutions and then slowly picking up speed to finally start.

They do i have checked. Any who i went ahead and just zip tied them and there are no leaks.. Good but bad news in the same token. Im upgrading to ls3 intake/fuel so i was hoping this was the hard start issue. I guess this weekend im going to try and find a better ground or at least add another one, Maybe that's why it barely turns over on occation?

I would'nt touch the intake ports they are more than adequate. The exhuast side is what you want to spend the time on. I think im just going to call TSP and order their 250cc heads.. They are pricey but their the best in the business I hear. I talked with them and they said my 228r 590/114lsa should work fine with their heads. Im expecting 450-500 with the new 92mm TB/LS3 intake&fuel and a BAD set of heads! well see what G force can do tunning wise.

Rear end is bullet proof now! Im already bored with the power.. It never stops i swear. Ive been debating on N/A or FI? I like FI for the big power but N/A is so much simpler and easier to accomplish my 500-550rwhp goal (for now anyways) I just found a complete LS3 intake with the fuel system for $250 so i might be searching for some l92 heads and just leave it N/A for awhile. That is if i cant find any good info or someone to convence otherwise.

So I've been contemplating going turbo and I've been reading just about every thread on here and ls1tech. I would like to hear from other turbo Ls240-260-280 guys. I've been trying to figure out which manifolds work/don't. Which manifolds need to be heavily modified/slightly. Really any insight to make this project as smooth as possible. If there is a similar thread where all the turbo guys have come together and shared their experiences I apologize in advance. As I'm sure many of you guys are aware my car was previously turbo charged so a lot of the ground work has been done. 3 bar map sensor, oil pan tapped, holes cut for intercooler piping to name a few. This "should" be relatively easy as far as FI 280z are concerned.

Have to love buying someone else's project.. Especially when they don't put things back where they belong. Thanks for that info mike, I will be ordering a set.

on LS stuff?

Tie straps seem like a good idea. I agree with the drop in fuel pressure theory. I can't see a leaky injector dropping the fuel pressure over 30psi. Ill be out of town this weekend but will report back with my findings ASAP

Well i pulled the rail off, injectors attached and cycled the key. It kept blowing injectors out of the rail.. So that idea is out the window

I am running dual external Walboro pumps (just thought about that) so I don't think the in tank check valve applies to my situation but I will get it taken apart to see what it does

Will do, thanks