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Found 4 results

  1. I am selling my 1973 Datsun 240Z. Bought as roller without engine/trans in 2011/2012. Previous owner/s have changed the roof and various parts, so some of the stuff i pulled out was off a 260z/ 280z and there might still be some mixed parts on it. That and all the modifications pretty much eliminate this as a show car. Do not buy this thinking it can be restored to show car quality. It would take far more than would make economic sense. This is purely made to run quick/fast, not to look pretty. It's raw and needs muscle to be driven. It has manual brakes without booster and manual steering without power assistance. You need to be strong like bull. But it is rewarding! If you dare you can get 0-60 in just over 4 seconds, while carrying a passenger. I've never felt the need to put effort into it, but I am certain it'll crack the 4 second mark if you just lower the tire pressure... This is a great handling, light weight car with balls! Once you get used to its noise and raw roughness or like me, fall in love with it, this car is AWESOME! Took it to tracks and autocross events and thoroughly enjoyed the @#$% out of it every time i drove it, but I am almost done building me next racecar and I need the funds to focus and finish it up... Now to the great things about this car. I'm just going to list as much as I can and I'll save some details for when you come to see it: SOLID 1997 Pontiac Trans Am LT1 V8 with 310 hp at around 5250 rpm and a torque curve that starts well above 320 ft. lbs. from the word go all the way into the rev limiter. Max torque 340 ft. lbs. Stand-alone engine harness and Howell Engineering computer, tune-able, obviously T56 manual 6-speed transmission out of the same 1997 Pontiac Trans Am S1 Sequential Shifter that translates forward/ backward motion into the H-pattern - yeah, it's awesome! R200 rear diff with a fantastic Quaife ATB torque biased helical limited slip differential upgrade and 3.545 final drive ratio Nissan Armada CV jointed half shafts LED sealed beam replacement headlights with aero covers Both, front and back bumpers lightened (not good for crash resistance, so be aware) Fiberglass bumper covers, front and back, front with lower air dam Fiberglass fenders Fiberglass hood with vents and secured by lockable aerocatch latches Fiberglass cowl Fiberglass flares Wilwood brakes (almost 13" all around) with 6 piston front calipers and 4 piston rears - high temp fluid, track disks, track pads, biasing valve installed Complete Arizona Z car suspension kit with billet control arms etc pp, which keeps the rear control arms straight while the vehicle is lowered! 5-lug Rota wheels 17x9 front and 17x9.5 rear with Nitto NT01s in 255/40/17 fronts and 275/40/17 rears Autopower bolt in 10 point roll cage NRG hub and deep dish steering wheel with quick disconnect and lockable cover Custom light weight polycarbonate dash board Dakota Digital gauge cluster with 0-60 timer and 1/4 mile timer and couple neat functions Ignition activated dash cam with GPS Corbeau racing seats on sliders, forth and back adjustable! Schroth ASM harness belts Fuel-Safe bladder fuel tank with functioning level sensor and external high flow filter and Mallory pump Fiberglass deck lid spoiler American Autowire chassis harness Clean California title Made in 1973, this car is PRE-smog and does not have to go to smog inspection! Current registration Asking price $12,500.00 Located in San Diego
  2. Hey guys, not sure if there will be any interest but I want to post up my build here just so I can look back through it for whatever reason. I am starting with an almost completely rust free 240z I picked up for a decent price here in phoenix and have plans to daily it, more or less stance, and eventually make it a nice little track rat I won't feel bad about beating up on when I go road racing. Just recently sold my c5 Corvette after feeling bad about beating it up around the track and the high expenses of everything motor and trans wise so I found this and immediately knew I was going to have a blast driving it (outside of summer, it just got to 115 F here . Working outside yesterday in that was NOT fun. Bought the car a few weeks ago and it was running and driving, albeit it smokes a little which I think is because it is running very rich, and the radiator leaked so I couldn't drive it before buying, just hear it run. Body is in great shape with the exception of the roof which has some dents. Don't ask me how they got there I have no clue haha. Guessing it wasn't treated right as there is a trucker lady front license vanity thing, HUTCH written on the back, and mud flaps when I got it.. Here are the pics of where I first got it and then of me using my first AAA tow. I was amazed at how fast they got there to pick it up! Definitely hasn't been moved in a while, but that will change! First order of business was getting it running and making sure it wouldn't overheat in the brutal Arizona summers. I originally was going to get the original radiator fixed and save me some money. $75 to clean it and get it going so I figured sure why not, save myself some money. Got called back and apparently it would be another $125 to rod it out... so $200 into an old brass radiator when I can get a nice aluminum 3 core for $140. Easiest decision ever! decided now is a good time to put new hoses on as well and I found these gems... Totally rotted out and broken.. so time for a new replacement! Ordered those in along with a new thermostat and were ready to go!... or not. Temp gauge wasn't working so after checking all the wiring I found the gauge was bad and more than likely the sender too. So after trying to get it out unsuccessfully, sorry no pics of this, It was so badly gouged I needed a new lower thermostat housing and temp sender. Yay! Got those in and found a 280z gauge on craigslist and swapped out the front so it would fit behind the cluster like my original gauge and then now we have temp! Does not overheat! I will not mess with cars that overheat, after having severe issues with my big block cutlass and a number of other cars, it just isn't something I like to touch anymore. After this I decided it was time to get keys for the car as I was given none when I bought it. Looking online and at local auto part stores I was not able to find any door lock cylinders for a 240z that could get here in a reasonable amount of time and I was not about to spend bookoo bucks on a full complete set. SO I found that lock cylinders from a 80's 510 fit perfectly if you do very minor work to it. I can take pictures of this if anyone is interested in a cheap way to get new door locks. Onto the hatch lock... I was able to take it out and find a guy on craigslist who makes keys by feel alone! He had a few blanks and a file and in under 10mins made a perfect key for my trunk. What an art! I now have a car I can start and lock Here is a few more pictures of the car and a pic of the seat I will be putting in it out of my c5. Sparco Sprint V and I fit SNUG. Totally holds you in around corners. The old seats are roached and this will be perfect. I will be making a bracket soon to fit in in. I also took the rear bumper off and cut the ridiculously long muffler off! I've always loved the look of ZG flares and only ever had deep dish wheels on one other car and those only had around a 2 ish inch lip so this time I wanted much more. I had thought about getting diamond racing steelies and ZG flares but there are already so many of them and being as cheap as I am there had to be another way. I was able to find some Eagle 028's for $130 on craigslist off of a Cherokee and they had the dish I was craving! I was hoping they could just be redrilled to 4x4.5 but they already had so many bolt holes there was no room to drill. These are 15x10 with -44 offset (3.5 backspacing or 3.25 I forget exactly). They stick out quite a bit! I decided I am either going to spend a lot of money on rims that I like that fit or spend a little bit more on 5 lug swapping the car. I like the 5 lug look a little more anyways and this would let me inspect a the car a little more and keep me occupied over the summer. I have some of the extra wide ZG flares and 5 lug front hubs on order and they should be in soon! I will be taking pics of the rear soon. For the rear the drums were shot and I don't want to get old drums redrilled. After looking at the prices of how much new drums and pads were.. around $150. Thats assuming everything else was still good. Not going to happen. I decided a disc brake conversion was in order. I bought new rotors for $22 each, both front calipers off a 1985 Maxima for $15 and $6 for some 1/8 inch sheet metal. Just finished building the bracket and it looks... interesting.. but it will work and hold everything exactly where it needs to be. Only downside to this is I no longer have an E-Brake. Which to me is a plus because I would just pull it and try to do something stupid anyways.. Another forum member Jmai86 I believe did a coilover conversion using cheap ebay Emusa coils and that is the option I will be doing. They are on order and should be in soon and I can take pics of the conversion as well if anyone is interested. I can post pics of the disc brake conversion as well if anyone wants to convert the rear to disc for under $100 depending on how much the proportioning valve runs me I should be able to keep it right around there. Also just got my tires in! 225/50/15 khumo ecsta. $86 each from online and they look cool. Will post pics soon. Actually a very minor stretch, I wish I went to 205/50/15s to be honest. Cheaper tires like $50 each so thats a plus. Well I will go take a few more pictures of the conversion and the tires all mounted and interior stuff. Let me know if you guys want to see more or any questions and if there is interest I will post the build as it happens!
  3. I figured it was about time to start my thread on my 240Z that I've been building for a few years.... To start the background on the Z; I found it on ZCar.com in central Florida however it did live half it's life in Texas. Pictures looked pretty decent for a 72 and mostly unmolested. It had recent paint, classic hubcaps and upgraded 280Z block; 5spd and R200 diff transplant. After reviewing the pics and video, I made up my mind to commit to this one. The 175/70-14 donuts were so bad; they almost looked like original tires but what the hell, she was going to be a track car- right? I contacted the owner and found a flight on Jet Blue to Orlando for $99. I flew down on Saturday morning and my old boss picked me up at the Orlando airport and we drove over to check it out. Everything was as expected, nothing to make me fly back to Charlotte today. I did cut some of the fuel line and re-tighten some of the clamps just in case. Paid the guy and drove off to Charlotte. Car ran great up to Columbia where I stopped to see family and take a break from the drive. The biggest problem was the exhaust leak but with both windows down, wasn't too bad ~ Hit the house about midnight that night but she ran great and no issues. I drove her for about a year before the planning stages began. My last 240Z I built was 12:1 high compression L28 that I built back in 93 with forged pistons, floating pins; cam and all the fixins... L28's are pretty good but have limits and are still iron blocks. Looking at other alternatives; I started looking at RB swaps. The biggest issue I found was going to get parts for them, but wasn't a huge issue considering our global transportation system and JDM suppliers on the west coast. You can get a RB engine and wiring harness pretty decent price but then you want to get bigger turbo (s) and all the fixins...Some say the RB26 has too much power and RB25 is better...both can put out gobs of power and take your paycheck just as easy as making that power. There's some good suppliers of RB swaps these days too like McKinney. Then I started looking at VQ swaps like A Hoke. I like the idea of staying in the family but it wasn't that important- Weight and power were the main requirements. There were some VQ swaps out there that look pretty good but then I started looking at the power and decided no VQ35. Hmmm, what about VQ37? still pretty new and prices were still pretty high for a VQ37 with tranny and harness. I started to think about the old american love of sticking a V8 in a small foreign car like Carol Shelby. Why not? The SCARAB was our answer to this question. But the early generation small block engines were heavy and not what I was looking for in a car to track. After seeing Dave Palarmo's LS1 240Z at the 2008 ZCON @ mid-ohio I thought that was a nice setup. Doing some research on it; the LS engine is a few pounds different than the L28. Buying a LS1/T-56 combo was easy to come by but many of them have oil issues (lack of owner responsibilities in changing the oil) and ragged out / tranny issues with hard shifting over 80K+ miles on most of the combo's. Started looking at the various LS engines and options. The F-Body SS Camaro's and Firechickens were around and running car would cost about 4-6K depending on the condition. Better the condition the better the care I thought...THen started looking at wrecked GTO's for LS2 engines with lower miles. About the same in price. I put the word out and found an LS6 at the right price. A fellow track junkie and known around the circles; I was pleased to find this beast with about 4800 miles on it and already had a hot cam installed. So off to the rodeo I went. I started to strip down the Z and for the past three years- due to three crazy kids, wife and job...I'm "almost done!" kind of...at this point I'm just ready to get her started and shake out a few things- mainly what is left to do: Run brake lines (MC to wheels all aorund) Finish fuel lines (today?!?) Dash decision - Aluminum or stock (going twords aluminum to just do it...) wire it up Radiator Exhaust Battery wires THE LIST [Drivetrain] LS6 Engine - Fuel Injected with cable throttle body. T-56 Magnum- Enough to hold 600 HP. - Stock will not work (for long) Q45 / CV shafts. Driveshaft shop Aluminum driveshaft DXD dual friction clutch Interior Roll bar Auto-Meter guages Start switch Battery relocation / lighter battery Exterior ZG flares BRE spoiler [Chassis] Bad Dog Racing full frame rails New floor pans Stripped and painted underpan Stripped and painted front clip [Fuel] Fuel cell - 16 gal Summit circle track Russell Fittings Bosch 44 fuel pump Speedway LS conversion regulator For now- stock fuel rail [suspension] TTT rear lower control arms Coilovers - Koni Shocks Quick steering couplers / bump steer spacers TTT T/C rods TTT Lower Control Arms [brakes] AZC Wilwood on all 4 corners (6/4). Heavy Duty Rotors SS Lines all around Wilwood 1" MC 280Z Booster Pics attached... Thanks to Matt Isbel and Mike Kelly for inspiration as well as the countless hours on HYBRIDZ allowing me to second guess everything and upgrade upgrade upgrade... This is my first real track car so I'm sure I've screwed up somewhere- feel free to tell me -much of this has been a great learning experience from restoring cars since I was a kid helping my Dad to what I've built to date. So far I'm really happy and wish I could be ready for ZDAYZ but looks like that's out this year- Hope to get her to CMP this summer... Right now, I'd like feedback on the fuel setup - how much fuel starvation will I have and do I need to sump it? Any concerns with my setup like heat soak or fuel starvation issues I can avoid? Thanks in advance for the feedback
  4. So this past weekend we had a dyno day here in NW Arkansas so I had a chance to get my Z on the dyno and do a little tuning. My setup consists of a 98 LS1/T56 with 799 milled .035 for around 11.5:1 compression. My own custom built longtube headers. Stock LS1 intake, stock cam. Tune that could still use a bit of polishing up, but its decent. Anyways on to the results/pics/videos. Dyno'd saturday morning on a Dynojet. For comparison a 98 Camaro with nothing but headers and a slight tune put down 330/341 torque. Anyways my final results after 4 pulls and a couple tune tweaks were 348rwhp@~5500rpm and 370rwtq@~4500rpm. Tune could still use some tweaking, tried to do some more logging at the track, my launch/1-2 shift were shorting something out or causing my buddies laptop to stop logging, so I was only able to get one log when I just rolled up to 3rd and 4th gear. And on to the track results. My best time of the day ended up being and the video is of that pass: 60ft: 2.0217 330ft: 5.3256 1/8 ET: 7.9681 1/8 MPH: 93.91 1000 ET: 10.2482 1000 MPH: 108.04 1/4 ET: 12.1520 1/4 MPH: 118.33 That poor fox body never stood a chance lol. This is the second time I've gone to the track on the same axles, normally I break them on a daily basis, but the one thats in there now must be made of unubtanium or something! I was shifting hard the last few passes as well, almost WOT shifting 3rd and 4th, launching pretty decent, and was getting lots of wheel hop, and it kept on going. If my local track back home was a 1/4 mile instead of 1000ft I know it would do 11s without changing a thing, I pulled a 10.06 in the 1000ft at my local track, and my MPH is up 2+ from that 10.06 pass. -Will
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