280zwitha383

I took the guide plate off earlier today; the pushrod, rocker arm, and lifter (what I can see of it through the hole in the head anyway) seem to all be ok. I was planning on pulling the intake tomorrow and seeing what exactly is going on. Like I say, the lifter still seems to be aligned in the retainer, it doesn't look like it's gone down, turned sidways or messed anything up so I'll keep you all updated. So from what you say you think the stock roller lifters should be fine? I haven't done any research on them, but I definitely will now that I'm going to have to take everything off and possibly replace them. Thanks a lot for the help guys.

Well, last night I took my friend out for a spin for the first time. After I got on it the exhaust sounded like it had a bad leak and when I popped the hood I heard a ticking so since I've had my rocker arms actually come off (I guess from not correctly tightening them) I listened to which side the noise was coming from and pulled the passenger valve cover. Suprisingly my retaining nut was still tight but my rocker arm was very loose. After I tried to tighten it by hand I noticed that the rocker arm was bottoming out on the stud. So my only conclusion is that I must have crushed the lifter. Has anyone ever done this before? I am running stock lifters with a .500-.510 lift cam. If I replace it should I replace all of them since the others could be likely to do the same or could this be considered a freak thing? Thanks for any help.

Very nice.... brings back memories That is freakin awesome about your dad!

I'm running a pretty stout 383 out of a 2 1/2" single pipe w/o cat through a magnaflow. A trick cut-out is my next performance upgrade but if the 2 1/2" pipe is chocking it I can't tell it. I guess we'll know once I get the cut-out installed. You will do fine as far as performance out of a 3" with a mild 350.

Well, you should do a search then. I saw a post where the guy said his Edelbrock requires 6.5. Look at the documentation for you Demon carb if you have any, otherwise do a search.

Just a suggestion but you could run a mechanical fuel pump on the ZX depending on how far you have it set back. That would give you an idea what it should run like or you could just leave it that way. A stock mech. fuel pump for an SBC is about $12 as apposed to $50-$100 for an electric one. I would think 7-8 psi is good. 5 seems pretty low to me.

I would vote 3" single. It will save a little money and shouldn't restrict a mild 350.

After burning a hole through the welding on one of my headers I figured I better get my timing figured out because the welder said there shouldn't be any way I burned through it without my timing being way too far advanced. So I went and bought a timing light hooked it up and I was at 6 degrees initial timing which I set by ear so I thought that was pretty good and I left it at that. Come to find out after reading some more and using the light at higher rpm with the vacuum advance that my total timing was 50 degrees which I know is very bad (atleast I think I know) and with my initial timing at 10 degrees my mechanical timing is right at 36 degrees which I thought was awesome. So here's where I run out of knowledge: I know I should end up with 34 or 36 degrees total timing which I do at WOT because there is no longer any vacuum at WOT with a ported vacuum (right?) so what's the easiest/most effective way to get the mid-throttle advance down? I've heard about a limiter plate on a distributor but I haven't looked to see if that's stock or if that's some sort of aftermarket feature. Any help would be appreciated. BTW this is a stock (to my knowledge) HEI distributor that came on a computer controlled timing engine ('85 silverado)but it is or atleast should be bypassed since two of the wires have been spliced together. Thanks a ton.

Are you ever "going big" or is this engine going to remain mild?

Oh yeah! I think he's right about MSA having LS1 parts seems like I saw some............. Here's 80LT1: (I guess noone makes any swap parts for an LS-1)

From what I understand the R200 peels both tires lsd or not. I know mine does and I've heard a few other people say the same. Everyone (even JTR if I remember correctly) seems to think lsd is pointless except for traction while turning.

I think the only reason you couldn't get comparable gas mileage out of the ZX is because it probably came with a 3.90 rear and I'm not certain but I think that most vettes have 2.73. As far as LS-1 in the ZX alot might depend on the type of steering you have. If you've got the box on the fender I don't envy you. Even if not, I doubt the stock manifolds will work unless they exit to the rear on the driver's side (I'm not familiar with LS engines). JTR sells a D-port header which I assume is for the LS engines, it routes the exhaust between the firewall and the pesky steering shaft. I don't think they will work with the p/s box if you've got it though. Do some searching!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4555247411&category=98062&sspagename=WDVW That is a bad mother right there.....

Where can I get a life size B.S. flag???? camaro dude ------------->

So, when I first got my ZX running I was sitting at a light about to turn when a camaro pulls up beside me. Of course I couldn't resist since I hadn't raced anyone yet. Needless to say I beat him very badly even missing 2nd gear (improperly installed B&M ratchet shifter). Anyway, a few days ago the guy tracks me down at work and wants to race me in his other camaro with "a vette engine, 4.11 gears, 11 sec. 1/4 mile, 'stock' LS-1, and his first gear goes up to 55mph". So I'm thinking to myself, either this dude is so full of crap that I'm just going to kill him or he's lying when he says he's stock. I'm pretty sure he's not running 11's on a stock engine 4.11 gears or not, and taking first in an automatic to 55mph with 4.11 gears sounds a wee too high also. Me and my friends are wanting to put a little money on it so I wanted some expert advice before I possibly lose a 50 or so. So here's what he's running supposedly: -Stock LS-1 -4.11 gears -"almost slicks" -11 sec quarter mile Here's what I'm running: -383 full roller 10:1 dart iron eagle 215cc with 280 duration cam and little over 500 lift. Should be 450hp/450tq roughly -350 turbo -3.90 gears -stock tires -stock suspension -unknow 1/4 mile I would like to think that even if he does run 11's I could still atleast keep up with him, I know he can outrun me because he's got OD but we're not racing for top end, just acceleration. Thanks for any opinions. On a side not, I embarassed my first rice burner today

Well, when I gauge weather it's not usually in HP......

I'm curious how much compression you were running, what grade gas you used, and what you had your timing set at. Thanks

I'm pretty sure the 300zx was/is twin turbo. In that case what's wrong with the engine it has? In my mind V6 + TT =

Well, I'm not as hesitant to start on my body work now I'll say that much.....

I'm trying to talk myself out of ordering them right now........

that is simply beautiful.......

Well bob, sorry if I got your hopes up with the 300hp estimate. Thanks for the correction wheelman.

In my experience, a stock oil pan will barely clear the mounting brackets of the r&p setup. I have about 1/4" clearance without any modifications. As far as the steering shaft, you can either cut up a set of headers and re-weld them (like I did) or just buy the Sanderson headers from JTR. Your exhaust pipe should go between the steering shaft and the frame, JTR does it that way and so did I.

Why would you say closer to 250hp wheelman? I'm not trying to argue, but a stock 350 with the 882 heads is rated at 260hp and he said that his heads are ported and he's running a bigger than stock cam. With an intake and headers I would think he could get 300hp. Like I say I'm not trying to argue I'm just curious. I would also have to say ditto on the intake, you'll do better with the dual plane especially with the setup you have now.