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Hi guys, I just got a 280zx and put a battery in it and turned the key and nothing happened. So I figured the battery was dead, I put a new battery in, same thing, so I put the new battery on a charger, same thing. There is no power to anything, no headlights, no dash lights, no hazard lights, no horn, nothing. So I checked all the fuses and they look good, checked the wiring from the battery and it looks good, but I found some wires right next to the battery that are cut. I'm not sure where they are supposed to go, or even if this is the problem? But it seems like the power from the battery isn't getting to the car. Anyone able to help? Thanks
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A few months ago, after getting an alignment done on my 78, I couldn't resist the urge to immediately follow the alignment with a small bit of spirited driving. Well, this was immediately after doing a lot of work to the car and I still had a few things to finish up, and it turns out that I forgot to tie down my battery, and on top of that I was using a battery from my brothers outback, so it was a bit too tall. I took a turn and pulled a bit of G's (maybe like .01 g's to be correct.) and the battery shorted out onto the section of fender above the battery tray. A lot of smoke was deployed, and it ran like sh$% until I made it home where it stayed parked for a couple of months due to me moving to a different town. Well, today I purchased a cheapo walmart battery, as the subaru battery was already in bad shape before the short circuit can now be rendered completely useless, and I threw it in there to see what works and what does not. -It is now running on 3 cylinders. -The subwoofer is no longer getting power. -And the temp gauge is no longer working for me. I'm sure there are more issues, but I haven't had time to thoroughly check everything out. It may be worth noting that this problem occurred after installing an L28et into my 78 280z (full ecm swapped from turbo as well). Everything ran really very nicely before this event and I just need some direction as to what I should examine when troubleshooting this problem. I can't really find specific info through searching, and I am only in town for a limited time and want to sort this out as fast as possible. This is a very embarrassing newb mistake for me to make, but things like this are bound to happen to a young mechanic such as me, so any help from you folks would be greatly appreciated. I've checked all the fuses within the vehicle and none are blown. Again, I know this is probably a very elementary topic, but I don't understand enough about electricity yet to really know the damage/what to look for. Thanks in advance for your input!
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Hello everyone, I bought my Z in 2007 in New Mexico for 600 bucks with what appeared to be not much rust ( and it still is a fairly rust free car). It ran when I put a little fuel in the lines and I did a bit of work to drive it back to houston. Got it back to town and funds dried up after I couldn't get it to pass the state safety inspection. Fast forward to now and things and great I got most of the parts on the surface that I thought I would need. Today the brakes were bled, the back were easy but when I got to the front the front brakes wouldn't bleed. The brakes now have pressure, they didn't have pressure till I bled the back brakes and this was one of the reasons why it didn't pass inspection on top of the wind shield wipers not working. Any hints or tips I was thinking of running air through the lines to clear a possible blockage. Tomorrow I am doing a radiator flush, and sunday I am doing the popular windshield wiper motor replacement with a acura integra motor. Mondays plan is to start her up and get her to pass inspection( then it will be body work and interior ) The brakes were also stuck when I tried to move the car, a little work with a rubber hammer soon had them free, pictures will be up as soon as I can find the folder I put them in. Please people enjoy the thread as I refresh my 240z
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Someone pointed out to me recently that one of my fuse blocks had been cut out, and the remaining wires wire-nutted together. And the other fuse block had wires connecting the terminals, as opposed to fusible links. So, I wired in the distribution block. On my car, it's (the installation guide online, I think it's on atlanticz) showing 3 of the wires get a 50a fuse, and one gets an 80a (for a 77 model year, which mine is). So, it didn't matter which wire went where in the block as long as the wire needing the 80a had an 80a fuse. Checked out a wiring diagram online. It appears that three of the wires go to the same plug, while one of them goes to the alternator. Makes sense this would be my 80a (I tried searching this but was surprised not to find anything that explained differentiating these 4 wires. I know I saw it somewhere...). So, I checked for continuity between the alt plug and each of my 4 wires at the fuse block. Found one wire with continuity, so I stuck the 80a there, and the remaining 3 slots got the 50a's. I also put in a key switch (from Black Dragon) between the starter and the pos terminal on the battery. After I get the car back together (painting and pretty thorough budget frame-off), I'm gonna wire the stereo and fans straight to the battery with an inline fuse (and toggle switches for the eng fan and ac fan). I figure that way I won't lose my stations if I take the battery key out. And later, I'd like to get the megasquirt to control the engine fan, but I'm putting it off at the moment bc of time constraints (moving in...2 weeks?). And the fans will all get their own relay. My question is....Does all that sound right? I've been looking at this car for 6 months and I feel like Jack Torrance in The Shining. So, does all that sound logical and won't immediately burst my car into flames?