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Showing results for tags '1974'.
I just bought some new headers for my 1974 260z, but they run into some transmission coolant lines. Does anyone know if I would be able to bypass these lines? Or what I could do to get around this problem? It's an automatic and I have removed the air conditioning. Any information would be greatly appreciated. The two horizontal lines in the second picture are what I am talking about.
Back in action! Came across this threw a friend of mine. 1974 260Z (11/74). Got it for a great price. Sat in a garage for about 3 years. Was drug out of a barn by my good friend about 8 years ago. He then swaped in the motor/ trans and ended up selling it before it drove, to the guy i got it from. He then carried on a decent swap. The car has a very nice COMPLETE aftermarket harness. Has very little rust. All of it is exterior. Flairs and fenders could fix it all . Original paint (and pin striping?). Has Eibach springs with Tokico adjustable struts all the way around. Larger Gen 1 Yota brakes up front. And a few other nice features. It goes down the road very nice. One of the best riding z's Ive had. Sadly the Motor dose have issues. It had a faint knock. And a few other issues I noticed after having it for a few days. At the time of writing the the motor is completly stripped. Will go into more detail later on what i found. (Bearings) Anyway Its awsome to be back and have a Z again. Heres a few pics. Currently has a lil beef under the hood. A small block Chevy Vortec 350 (1996??). Fed by a Holley Avenger. I was told its a 650 but Havent verified. Mated to a T-5 (from a camaro? Havent done the research yet). Which is spinning an open R200 (Ratio unknow still). Ahh the joys of buying projects. More to come!
First off, hello there, my name is Brad. I am new here... and yes this is another SHOULD I BUY THIS post so any advice would be greatly appreciated. I've been searching my local area and nearby states for a Z car (specifically pre 1979... no ZX). I am planning on doing a budget build and not a restoration. I will be going for the classic JDM look (fender mirrors, flairs etc.). I am a performance car enthusiast and currently daily drive a 2011 Subaru STi, however performance is not my end goal. I already have a great performance car so I want something that looks different for cruising and taking to some shows. I love the way the classic Z cars look, even stock they are gorgeous. This may upset purists but imperfections don’t bother me and this car will be far from perfect for some time. The imperfections are character and show history. That being said I don’t want a complete ROT project, as many don’t. After searching I found what I think is the best deal I’ve seen so far and plan on going to check it out today with CASH in hand but would love to hear some opinions and words of caution from those more experienced than I. Here is the ad: http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/4576768231.html This car is just up the road so it’s a lucky find in my opinion. Some more information from the guy after talking with him and looking at pictures he sent me. - The floor pans are not rusted through, only surface rust. - The electrical issue is because he had someone else wire the car and they used the wrong harness. Everything works (lights, turn signals etc) just some of it is mixed up, like the wipers are turned on VIA the defrost button . So nothing major and something I will fix. - He checked the wheel wells and strut tower areas and said nothing was rusted through (I will confirm this) - The car was originally from Texas but spent 2 years in Connecticut, that’s where the little bit of rust came from. It now resides in Columbia, SC. I originally set out to find a carbureted setup to eliminate EFI and having to work with ECU/tuning. I currently do that on my STi but it can be tougher than making adjustments to a ye ol’ carb setup. However he said it runs great and has no issues so I shouldn’t have to touch the engine much at the moment. The only issue comes in when I do have to. Maybe someone can shed some light on this part, is it a good setup, easy or hard to work with and so on. I think that is the only thing holding me back at the moment (besides the obvious that I haven’t seen it in person yet). I know I’m forgetting some small details so I will update if I can think of anything. Thanks in advance! Purchase
So I recently got a 260z last month and this problem has finally gotten to me. The infamous post emissions Flat top SUs are bogging when I lay the pedal to the metal. They will just begin to barf gasoline out the overflow valve if I start it up and rev it while the carbs are still cold. But this especially happens up in the hills (In Alaska) and no matter how slow I start up the carbs they will bog and puke up good gasoline. All I can do is floor it till what I assume is the floats go back up. Usually all it takes is flooring it till it touches off on 5k revs. But this problem is very persistant and when I come down from the hills after the carbs go cold all they wanna do is bog for the next 5 to 10 minutes. Now I'm just gonna guess this problem is from sticky floats and fouled up Emission carbs. (cept for all the emissions are taken off because Alaska)