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Showing results for tags '1977 280z'.
Found 4 results
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I know I have seen a thread on replaceing the stock tach with an aftermarket tach that would not require any or moderate engineering to fit it in but cannot as yet find it[ the thread) Thanks in advance for any help you can offer. John
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Hello, I have a 77 280z powering a 76 280z cali chassis. This is my real car project and I feel I'm getting close to having this thing as a reliable daily driver. My issues is this: When starting my car, it idles around 800-900rpm and once I get going it starts to float up around 1200rpm. Once the car is warm I can easily find myself at a stoplight idling at 2k rpm. Now, if I leave the car in gear and basically bog it down (let the clutch partway out with the brake on), I can bring the idle down to anywhere I want between 1k-2k rpm. It is strange that it stabilizes wherever I "set" it. Besides this, the car seems to have plenty of power and no other noticeable faults in engine function. This is what seems to set my issues apart (i think) from the hundreds of high idle thread most people are having. Is there something related to the heating up of the motor or FI system that is causing this? FYI - Car lives at 6k feet. The timing is set correctly. Proper AFM function (checked all resistance levels). I've looked over the vacuum lines to the best of my knowledge - my latest breakthrough was moving the vac advance line from intake mani to the throttle body which fixed numerous idle/power issues. Did a vacuum "delete" to just run the basics. Fuel and oil pressure are good. Does this sound like faulty BCDD function or faulty cold start (stuck open)? I have the FSM and FI Bible for those that suggest it - there just may be something I'm not getting. Thanks in advance. Rock the Dashpot
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Hello everyone, I find myself in need of a new thermostat housing for my 1977 280z. Mine broke when I installed a new thermal transmitter. Will need to be shipped to 06035.
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Hello All, I have a N/A 1977 280z (N42 head, N42 Block). When setting the oil pump shaft in the car, does the notch on the crankshaft pulley need to point directly to zero on the little reference plate? because on the hood of my car is a sticker that says that it should point at "+10". I have searched around for the answer with no avail. The car does not seem like it wants to start at all. This is after a head gasket swap. Also: is it possible that after so long the rubber in the puller goes bad and gives an inaccurate TDC?
