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Showing results for tags 'aluminum'.
Found 4 results
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Seeking barbed style aluminum/billet fuel rail to replace the factory mess. Stock fuel injected L28.
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I know there's lots of info out on the net about making your own driveshaft so I thought I'd organize my go to links here. Depending on what you've got for parts and what tools you've got available a DIY driveshaft might be a good option. This should be your freakin' BIBLE when doing any driveline work: Dana Spicer Installation Manual Here's some links below that give some torque ratings and dimensions of different joints and just interesting reading: http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/1006or-universal-joint-cv-joint-transferring-torgue/ http://www.driveshaftsp
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Hello, Yesterday my radiator cracked and spilled coolant all over a mountain road. I'm now looking to replace with a 3 row aluminum unit. The only question I have is about this particular unit on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/70-75-NISSAN-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-Z-3-ROWS-ALUMINUM-RACING-RADIATOR-RED-FAN-S-HROUD-/150951825762?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item23256e1162 It looks like the fan shroud is blocking the radiator except where the fans are. Is this ok? I could also get a radiator without this -
I'm upgrading my rear cv axles by adding the short axle off a Pathfinder. This requires a .5' thick spacer between the cv joint and the stub axle. What is the preferred material to use: mild steel or aluminum? If it's aluminum, how 'bout some help regarding the choice of alloy. I've searched the web for aluminum "drops". There are several different alloys... some quite pricey. 6061, 6063, 7075, and 2024 seem to be the most common. Additionally, some are tempered as T6, which I understand increases the strength of the alloy. My real question is which of these alloys is preferr
