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Found 7 results

  1. Inspired by the Head cooling on cylinder #5 thread (http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/59029-head-cooling-on-cylinder-5-solutions/), I decided to make my own diagrams of the cooling system for US Z/ZX L6 engines. I had to exaggerate and diminish a few proportions to maintain decent flow while using a flat layout. These charts are as accurate as far as my knowledge and research have shown so far. I will gladly accept any corrections and update accordingly. The year cutoffs are approximate and do not reflect all of the small month-to-month changes of course. On the ZX diagrams, some cars got the throttle body heaters while others didn't. I left them in both diagrams just to cover all the bases. I did spend a fair bit of time on these, so if they do happen to find their way elsewhere on the web, make sure at the very least to cite where they came from. Red = oil passages Blue = water passages and flow direction Yellow = direction of water flow in flexible hoses 1970-1974 240Z / 260Z 1975-1978 280Z 1979-1980 280ZX 1981-1983 280ZX
  2. I recently re-routed some coolant lines on my L28ET. On the passenger side of the engine, I removed a 3-way bypass valve and 3-way fitting out of the rear of the engine and replaced it with a 2-way valve at the rear of the engine. I have seen other engines like this and read it would be OK as long as I don't go crazy while the engine is still cold. Problem: After the engine is warm, the Temp gauge sits PEGGED at 250 degrees while driving. I was initially very concerned, but what I noticed is that while idling, it goes back down to it's normal operating range of 180 degrees! As I move, it climbs again (fairly rapidly). My gauge was working fine before I re-routed my coolant hoses. Also, my heater works so I know coolant is flowing through there. Where is this temp gauge? Is it absorbing hot hair from somewhere else? Any ideas why this might be happening? Here is how I re-routed my lines. From this: To this:
  3. (problem solved) Was a 280zx radiator. Hung about 3-4 inches past the radiator support. Decided to just correct the previous owners decision and put in a proper 240z radiator so I don't lop off the bottom of this one on a bump.
  4. Hey guys, I'm trying decide which radiator to buy for my sr20det swap in my Z. I want to spend around 3-400 dollars. If anyone has had a good experience with a certain radiator I would appreciate the input.
  5. Hello, I have a question for anyone who is running the stock or stock like aluminum 3 core radiators with their SBC's. What radiator hoses are you using? I bought two of the "universal" hoses from o'reilly's and my total was over $50. Just wondering if anyone could pull the numbers of their hose so I can see if I can find a cheaper option. I haven't put the engine in the car yet, so there is still time to return the hoses if other options are available. Thanks, Han
  6. Greetings all, So, I have a '73 240z with an L28E from a 280z. She needs a new radiator. I've heard that the stock radiator for the 280z would sit a couple inches lower than desired and needs some extra mounting work. That said, I'd like to put a new all aluminium radiator that fits the 240z properly, but that can also cool the L28. Now, I would think that any decent two or three row would be fine. When I tried to inquire about using this champion cooling 3 row, the dealers were pretty much saying no dice. So, the only brand I can find that actually claims to support the 2.8 L28 is Koyorad. They seem pretty sweet, but the high price, lack of warranty, no drain plug, and separate $30 cap are all turn offs. Any advice would be appreciated.
  7. Hello, Yesterday my radiator cracked and spilled coolant all over a mountain road. I'm now looking to replace with a 3 row aluminum unit. The only question I have is about this particular unit on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/70-75-NISSAN-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-Z-3-ROWS-ALUMINUM-RACING-RADIATOR-RED-FAN-S-HROUD-/150951825762?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item23256e1162 It looks like the fan shroud is blocking the radiator except where the fans are. Is this ok? I could also get a radiator without this fan/shroud combo and just get some universal electric fans that zip tie to the radiator. Like this: Is that fan shroud helping by accelerating air through a smaller opening or just blocking the flow? If anyone has any experience with this particular ebay radiator that would be of great help too. Thanks
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