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Showing results for tags 'gauges'.
Found 4 results
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So this isn't the best write up but when I started restoring these gauges there was nothing anywhere with this type of info so I felt I had to. They started off like this. The most important thing to do in any electrical restoration is to: A - take lots of pictures for reference. The more the better. B - label or draw a wire layout, I drew mine out because I needed to deep clean the connectors and wires. C - don't rush yourself. Take all the time you need and if you get frustrated take a break. Slowly take apart the wiring harness and remove the bulbs. Remember to label everything. Next take apart the two screws that hold the front housing onto the back gauge plate. It is only two small screws on each. Once disassembled, to this point there is 6 tabs on the dual gauges that need to be drimmeled out to remove the glass and metal divider. Be careful. The clock takes pressure because it's glued. Be careful not to brake the lense. Apply nice even pressure. Next I removed all the paint from the metal piece before applying a high filler primer because of the wire wheel lol. Then I sanded down the plastic gauge cover. Prepped them all and applied the primer to both side. Remember which side needs to be black and which white on the gauge divider. I used a satin black for all the parts requiring black paint, and a nice gloss white for the rest. The white is what helps reflect the OEM lights. To re attach the gauge lenses to the housing I used a high heat, clear gorilla type glue. Be careful applying it because if it gets on the lense you won't be able to fix it. I re used the clock lense and had a local glass shop cut two new Plexi lenses for the dual gauges which cost me 8 USD. Take your time putting everything back together and the finished project will look like this or even better.
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Morning guys! Own a 1976 280z stock. I recently received a very generous Christmas gift of full Intellitronix gauges for the Z (Speedo, Tach, Fuel, WTemp, Oil press). I am trying to delete the clock and voltage meter. Each gauge comes with 4 wires (Power, Ground, Signal, Highlight Dim) I have installed the Fuel, Wtemp and oil pressure gauge in the appropriate location by cutting the connector off the stock gauge, splicing and taping into the connector with the new gauge and then plugging it into the stock harness via the stock connector. I was able to get a image and reading from all three gauges. I then decided it was time to move along to the speedo and tach. As soon as I removed the tach/speedo I have lost all power to my 3 smaller gauges. I attempted to reinstall them but realized I had already "hacked" into the tach with the new tachometer so its not possible for me to recreate a stock tach setup. I don't seem to understand why this is happening, checked all fuses as well. Is it a better idea for me to wire all the gauges off 1 power, 1 grnd, 5 individual signal wires, and 1 headlight dim wire? I apologize if this is vague, electrical work is daunting. Thanks for any input!
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Hi all, Looking for a late style THREE wire tachometer from a 280z or equivalent to replace the 4 wire one I have in my Z. I upgraded to an electronic ignition and need a three wire tach so I have a working gauge. Thanks! Chris
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After searching for awhile, I noticed there wasn't a concise thread covering choices on gauge sets. (*Mods, Delete this if its redundant please.) This thread is to share links or pictures of your installed gauges and to note what it required to dial them all in. Please note any changes you would have made if you where to do it all over again. I was personally looking for a smoked or blacked out type when ignition is off and then they light up when activated. Sort of like the Subaru units or the Dakota brand does. Any thoughts?
