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Showing results for tags 'l24e'.
Found 3 results
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I have a question about switching the ECU. I have a 83 280zx with an L28E that I may have accidentally fried the ECU in. I have found an 82 Maxima with an L24e that I could buy to source some parts from. My question is from the phitos ive seen, the plug on the ECU for the L24e matches the plug on the L28E ECU in my 280zx. Is it possible the ECUs could be swapped without major issues? I could see it possibly working, working but not great, or not working at all. Has anyone tried this or know anything about these ECUs? The first photo is from an 82 ECU from a maxima and the second photo is the ECU from my 280zx. Thanks!
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I have an '83 Maxima wagon and have been interested in swapping out the engine for an L28, L28E, or L28ET, but was wondering if there was anything that I could do with my L24E to save some money. Would it be worth it to fix it up? Would I be able to get 250-300 horsepower out of it with bolt-ons? I know the L28E and ET could handle some large numbers, so would this block be thicker and handle more? I was mainly curious what would be the maximum bore on an l24e block, if there's info on that. I've looked through the forums but haven't found anything on maximum bore or what parts (besides the mn47 head) are useful if any. I'm interested in a stroker, or a turbo setup, or even just what may give me a decent power boost overall. This may be more of a question for our Aussie brothers and sisters who have more experience with the L24E from the R30 lol. Thanks in advance!
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Hello fellow Z Enthusiasts, I'm at my whits end here from this Darn Datsun. I've got a 1983 Datsun Maxima, and I can't for the life of me figure out how to get this thing running properly. A-little backstory on the car; The car used to belong to my grandfather, and when he passed away my father inherited it and drove this old girl everyday for 5 years to work, All the way up until the point the engine slipped its timing gear, then it sat for another 7 years until I was old enough to understand cars and not hurt myself while working in the garage. After purchasing a new timing chain and replacing the old one, the car ran fine. Well, my brother was using the car while his was in the shop during this last summer, but the dummy doesn't know a THING about cars and never checked the oil, water/coolant level, etc.; pretty much everything that you need to check on old cars to make sure they dont explode while driving them. Well, this time he didn't check the water level, called my father asking "why it was overheating all the time". And as he was driving it back to our house, the poor car blew the head gasket. Months of work down the drain (and wallet, mind you). It sat for another 2 months, until we managed to get the money to buy a new gasket. (Now THAT was one heck of a time, trying to figure out how to take the head off) We eventually got it replaced, but and hooked everything back up, but upon starting the engine we realized it wouldn't drive correctly. Let me explain; When you started the engine, it would idle great. It revved in idle like a dream as well. Then you'd try driving it; Ohhh boy, was there a problem. The thing would lurch and pop forward worse then a dang blender paired with a v8 engine runnin on 3 cylinders. Back to the garage I suppose. Everything looked fine, but we read in the manual that the oil pump timing gear needs to be 5 degrees past the time marks at 8degrees past TDC. Well, we were off, so we tried setting it how the book looked. Tried again. Cranked and backfired, and eventually got it started that way, but even then it ran so bad that it would die when you gave it just a tiny bit of gas. Back to the garage... We noticed that when we turned the distributer clockwise, it would run better, so we decided that instead of setting the Oil Pump Timing Gear at 5 degrees PAST the timing marks, we'd set it 5 degrees BEFORE the timing mark, still at 8 degrees TDC. Started it up, and amazingly it ran. It ran actually pretty good, which was surprising because it was the complete opposite of what the book called for. Our engine, a L24E non-Cali engine runs OUT of time, not IN time. But it was still out of time and not "drive able" (still lurched) and after hooking up a timing light to the engine, we discovered that the car would idle at 20 degrees, then drop down to 0 when you gave it gas, which would explain the lurching and backfiring. We thought we'd messed up on timing chain, so we checked that but it looks just like its supposed to. After a month of trying to time the car with the Oil Pump Timing Gear, we called 9 to 9 and Tom said that we needed to reset the computer. He said no matter what we did, the engine was fighting to put the engine back in time, so after a quick reset, we'd need to retime the engine again and it should be good. Well after resetting the computer and retiming the engine, the engine wouldn't even start this time. After fiddling with the Distributer and Timing Gear again, we got it running, and the engine now advances correctly when you give it gas. It no longer drops to 0, it goes up with the RPMs. We then tried driving it... Same thing again, only this time worse. It lurches so bad it could give you whiplash if you weren't careful. We think it may be a vacuum line, but they look hooked up correctly and we can't find any leaks, so we are literally going insane trying to figure out this engine. If anyone's been through the same problem or has an idea on what the problem might be, let me know what I could do to try and fix this. Thanks!
