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OldZNewLife

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  1. Hello! I did an rb25det swap for a 1979 280zx, though I'm having issues figuring out the wiring for the alternator; with the original alt' wires disconnected, you can't shut the fuel pump off/dash lights stay on until you disconnect the battery, I've tried splicing the L wires into the Rb's harness but it still has the same issue. Anyone who's done an engine swap found the solution to this?
  2. Thank you Kenny! Just sent both a message to see who still has what, and I sent you, Aydin, a message as well.
  3. Hello! Looking for an N42, P90 or running l28et around Washington State. For an engine of same value; I have nearly a full LM7/CD009 swap, has a tune just starts and dies, r180/r200 1310 adapters (including new driveshaft and dirty Dingo engine mounts), decided to go back to the L28 instead (or another one of the other engines listed), more info if requested.
  4. Thanks for the reply Richard! Although you have it slightly backwards; Sorry, I should have stated I already have an external fuel pump rated for a LS engine to replace the stock pump (Fuel OUT on the 'vette regulator will have 6AN fittings and braided line to the fuel rail, while fuel IN and RETURN will most likely run the lines you see in the picture with the white fittings). My issue is, safety in mind, with the lines for fuel IN and RETURN both rated at 150psi or higher, would it be a problem if I just pushed both ends directly onto the existing in-tank pickup tube and clamped them down? Or would I need to modify the pickup tube to accept AN fittings?
  5. Hello! First post here, was wondering what everyone used for their fuel setup on their stock tanks. I have a '79 280zx with a 5.3 (l28 saved for a 280z), stuck on what way to get the ls fuel pump to the stock 280zx pickup tube in the tank. Would there be any safety issue if I use a kit like the one pictured and just clamp send/return from the tank directly to the Corvette style regulator, or would that work just fine? Any info would be great, thanks!
  6. Hey Z fans, swapping my built 302 into my Zx (using my 351w as mockup) and I'm trying to figure out the best way to mount the engine. Right now the pan is hitting the crossmember and I'm guessing I need a low profile pan with relocated oil pump? As for motor mounts, I was planning on going with slide mounts since the power steering box is in the way. Anyone who's swapped a ford engine in their zx, your help would be greatly appreciated lol, I miss my Z haha
  7. Hello fellow Z Enthusiasts, I'm at my whits end here from this Darn Datsun. I've got a 1983 Datsun Maxima, and I can't for the life of me figure out how to get this thing running properly. A-little backstory on the car; The car used to belong to my grandfather, and when he passed away my father inherited it and drove this old girl everyday for 5 years to work, All the way up until the point the engine slipped its timing gear, then it sat for another 7 years until I was old enough to understand cars and not hurt myself while working in the garage. After purchasing a new timing chain and replacing the old one, the car ran fine. Well, my brother was using the car while his was in the shop during this last summer, but the dummy doesn't know a THING about cars and never checked the oil, water/coolant level, etc.; pretty much everything that you need to check on old cars to make sure they dont explode while driving them. Well, this time he didn't check the water level, called my father asking "why it was overheating all the time". And as he was driving it back to our house, the poor car blew the head gasket. Months of work down the drain (and wallet, mind you). It sat for another 2 months, until we managed to get the money to buy a new gasket. (Now THAT was one heck of a time, trying to figure out how to take the head off) We eventually got it replaced, but and hooked everything back up, but upon starting the engine we realized it wouldn't drive correctly. Let me explain; When you started the engine, it would idle great. It revved in idle like a dream as well. Then you'd try driving it; Ohhh boy, was there a problem. The thing would lurch and pop forward worse then a dang blender paired with a v8 engine runnin on 3 cylinders. Back to the garage I suppose. Everything looked fine, but we read in the manual that the oil pump timing gear needs to be 5 degrees past the time marks at 8degrees past TDC. Well, we were off, so we tried setting it how the book looked. Tried again. Cranked and backfired, and eventually got it started that way, but even then it ran so bad that it would die when you gave it just a tiny bit of gas. Back to the garage... We noticed that when we turned the distributer clockwise, it would run better, so we decided that instead of setting the Oil Pump Timing Gear at 5 degrees PAST the timing marks, we'd set it 5 degrees BEFORE the timing mark, still at 8 degrees TDC. Started it up, and amazingly it ran. It ran actually pretty good, which was surprising because it was the complete opposite of what the book called for. Our engine, a L24E non-Cali engine runs OUT of time, not IN time. But it was still out of time and not "drive able" (still lurched) and after hooking up a timing light to the engine, we discovered that the car would idle at 20 degrees, then drop down to 0 when you gave it gas, which would explain the lurching and backfiring. We thought we'd messed up on timing chain, so we checked that but it looks just like its supposed to. After a month of trying to time the car with the Oil Pump Timing Gear, we called 9 to 9 and Tom said that we needed to reset the computer. He said no matter what we did, the engine was fighting to put the engine back in time, so after a quick reset, we'd need to retime the engine again and it should be good. Well after resetting the computer and retiming the engine, the engine wouldn't even start this time. After fiddling with the Distributer and Timing Gear again, we got it running, and the engine now advances correctly when you give it gas. It no longer drops to 0, it goes up with the RPMs. We then tried driving it... Same thing again, only this time worse. It lurches so bad it could give you whiplash if you weren't careful. We think it may be a vacuum line, but they look hooked up correctly and we can't find any leaks, so we are literally going insane trying to figure out this engine. If anyone's been through the same problem or has an idea on what the problem might be, let me know what I could do to try and fix this. Thanks!
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