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Showing results for tags 'msd'.
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Alrighty, Ive got a stock 1978 280z and I'm currently installing an MSD 6A and Blaster 2 coil into the car. After reading any and all forum posts on the topic I came to the conclusion that I would need an MSD Tach Adapter 8920 in order for the MSD box to Communicate to the EFI by upping it to 12v. All my wires are in place and I'm getting a good strong spark. I put a voltmeter on the purple wire coming out of the MSD tach adapter and I'm getting 12v. Only problem is that I'm getting no fuel. It must not be communicating with the EFI somehow. Here's my Setup. MSD 6A: Heavy Red goes to battery + Heavy Black is going to battery - Red is going to Black wire with white strip (Ignition Key Wire) Orange is connected to blaster 2 coil + Black is connected to blaster 2 coil - White is not being used, I do not have a points system Violet and Green are connected to the Magnetic Pickups (I was told it didn't matter which way, I put green to green and violet to red) MSD Tach Adapter 8920: White goes to Tach Output on MSD 6a box Black is ground wire Red is connected to Black wire with white stripe (so two reds and black with white stripe all connected) Violet is connected to the blueish green wire that was connected to the coil negative terminal. Summary: I don't know what the **** I did wrong. Someone please tell me.
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Hello good folks at hybridz. Time to share my bittersweet experience with my MSD street fire ignition. In one phrase: "Sweet, but not to last" I bought the MSD ignition after all the things people were praising it for. I was sugared into the idea that my 240z needed a special spicy shocky sparky super smash MSD ignition. In all honesty for 3 months it worked wonderfully. However, after 3 months the MSD unit showed horrible signs of failure. 1. Misfires from 1000-3000 rpm. When cruising around town, normal driving the engine will have a few farts and coughs. 2. High RPM MISFIRE, the engine would start to "break up" at any rpm over 4500rpm. The engine felt like it had an imposed rev limiter by not firing. NOT the MSD's rev limiter, that was working fine(easy test) 3. Odd idling, the engine would idle around 2000 rpm, then 600rpm then it would have problems starting . 3 months the unit started to fail... 8 months the unit stopped firing all together. MSD probably built this unit to fail right after the warranty. I had to rewire my ignition on the side of the road to fix it. Next thing I know my pooch of a 3.0 motor now is driving great. I had built this sweet 3.0 motor for road racing but what is the point if the engine could not rev past 5000rpm. THE DARN MSD was the weak link, and prevented me from using the power that was hidden past 5000rpms. Now the engine revs to 8000rpm no problem. HIGH RPM MISFIRES CAUSED BY MSD IGNITION
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Hope everyone is well. I've learned a bit since my last post about my issues but I'll explain where I'm at. My car 280z with a 99' firebird LS1 and a 4L60E trans is constantly getting getting a P1054 error code (checked with a diablosport intune, i only use it to check for codes, I need a more comprehensive scanner). When the code/check engine light comes on the car seems to lose power/struggle and miss when I hit the gas, just makes a bunch of racket, it gets around ok if I don't hit the throttle too hard. I made it to the gas station about 2 miles from my house today and the symptoms popped up, I've made it 20 miles to a car meet 100% and then on the way home from the meet the symptoms return. I'm open to suggestions of what to do. Now if you feel like reading, here's what I've done... 1. When I bought the car it didn't want to start but when it did, it got around. After scanning it a Cam sensor code came up. Turns out the Cam and MAP sensors were UNPLUGGED. Plugged them in and the check engine light went off for about two days and now I'm basically having the same symptoms I am now. (i drove the car 150 miles to OCMD like that btw before I knew those sensors were uplugged) 2. Talked to a friend who's done a few LS Swaps and gave me some things to trouble shoot. First I relocated the 02 sensors directly under the header collectors, they were about a foot down the pipe in what he described as a lazy installation. 3. My symptoms made him think the car might be starved for fuel (hesitating and struggling under load on the road) so I inspected my fuel system. The main fuel line on the car appeared to be a braided 5/16 line and it was kind of a mix of sizes to get it plumbed between the fuel tank and the pump. The car also had an MSD fuel pump rated up to 40psi... I thought I hit the jackpot... I ordered the complete PSI Conversions LS Fuel kit (25' of line, proper fuel pump *Much quieter than the MSD piece of crap*, fuel filter/regulater and all the 6AN fittings your heart could desire. Finished the install this week and fuel pressure at idle improved from 58 to 61psi. But after all that, here I am, still chasing this stupid issue. Here is where I'm at... I currently have the spark plugs out of the car to inspect them and the wires. They are all an MSD wire/boot (gray/black) set specifically for an LS but one has brown boots and is visibly torn at the plug connection so I'll definitely replace that. The plugs look ok and are NGK TR55 gapped between 55 & 60. I don't see any obvious problems other than that boot. Was googling for the correct spark gap and found this update for the Spark Plug Wire Gaps https://www.acdelcotechconnect.com/pdf/tsb/tsb_03D-J-171.pdf Well I just looked up my plugs and TR55 (gap at 60) plugs ARE NOT listed as being specifically for my year motor however some old ass LS1.com thread had guys in 2008 running the TR55 on their 99-02 firebirds. The 3 plugs on NGK's website THAT ARE what they sell for the 99' V8 all say to gap them at 40. Perhaps NGK made the adjustment to their website a long time ago when the service update was released. Is it possible I'm over gap and having misses and that's throwing the o2 code because of improperly burnt fuel on the 02 sensor? or would the the computer throw a different code? I'm not sure how specific or complicated ECU's will throw codes. I literally might just have the wrong plugs in my car... Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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From the album: 2015 winter project
We relocated the msd box and the ecu under the dash on the tunnel -
I have a 1983 280zx n/a that i'm in the process of rebuilding. I recently purchaced the MSD Blaster 2 Coil to upgrade my stock coil. I'm having issues with the car starting, so one step I tried was to replace the ignition coil with the MSD Blaster 2. My question is: Is there anything more i would need to do aside from just installing it the same way the stock coil was installed? IE. Just hook up the (+) & (-) wires to the (+) & (-) terminals on the coil? Still having a no start issue, I think it is a fuel delivery problem. I know i'm getting spark because i checked at the plugs. I just want to make sure i didn't need to do any other mod's for the Blaster 2 to run properly with my stock Ignition set up. Thanks- MC
