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Showing results for tags 'ECU'.
Found 22 results
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1- First one is OEM Nissan Dealer Tool as used in the Factory Service Nissan Manual. Brand: Kent-Moore Part number: J-28835 With Original Manual. Handle is cracked, see pictures I'm asking 200$ (obo) + shipping + Paypal fee (2.9%) 2- Next one is Brand New Original Engine Plate for L28 Brand: NISSAN Part number: 30411-A8600 I'm asking 80$ + shipping + Paypal fee (2.9%) As see on the picture. Tracking, Insurance and Delivery Confirmation will be include in the shipping quote. I will prefer paypal payment for fast and safe process. Shipping will be done as soon as the payment will be clear. Regards Nismo_ZXT
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Hope everyone is well. I've learned a bit since my last post about my issues but I'll explain where I'm at. My car 280z with a 99' firebird LS1 and a 4L60E trans is constantly getting getting a P1054 error code (checked with a diablosport intune, i only use it to check for codes, I need a more comprehensive scanner). When the code/check engine light comes on the car seems to lose power/struggle and miss when I hit the gas, just makes a bunch of racket, it gets around ok if I don't hit the throttle too hard. I made it to the gas station about 2 miles from my house today and the symptoms popped up, I've made it 20 miles to a car meet 100% and then on the way home from the meet the symptoms return. I'm open to suggestions of what to do. Now if you feel like reading, here's what I've done... 1. When I bought the car it didn't want to start but when it did, it got around. After scanning it a Cam sensor code came up. Turns out the Cam and MAP sensors were UNPLUGGED. Plugged them in and the check engine light went off for about two days and now I'm basically having the same symptoms I am now. (i drove the car 150 miles to OCMD like that btw before I knew those sensors were uplugged) 2. Talked to a friend who's done a few LS Swaps and gave me some things to trouble shoot. First I relocated the 02 sensors directly under the header collectors, they were about a foot down the pipe in what he described as a lazy installation. 3. My symptoms made him think the car might be starved for fuel (hesitating and struggling under load on the road) so I inspected my fuel system. The main fuel line on the car appeared to be a braided 5/16 line and it was kind of a mix of sizes to get it plumbed between the fuel tank and the pump. The car also had an MSD fuel pump rated up to 40psi... I thought I hit the jackpot... I ordered the complete PSI Conversions LS Fuel kit (25' of line, proper fuel pump *Much quieter than the MSD piece of crap*, fuel filter/regulater and all the 6AN fittings your heart could desire. Finished the install this week and fuel pressure at idle improved from 58 to 61psi. But after all that, here I am, still chasing this stupid issue. Here is where I'm at... I currently have the spark plugs out of the car to inspect them and the wires. They are all an MSD wire/boot (gray/black) set specifically for an LS but one has brown boots and is visibly torn at the plug connection so I'll definitely replace that. The plugs look ok and are NGK TR55 gapped between 55 & 60. I don't see any obvious problems other than that boot. Was googling for the correct spark gap and found this update for the Spark Plug Wire Gaps https://www.acdelcotechconnect.com/pdf/tsb/tsb_03D-J-171.pdf Well I just looked up my plugs and TR55 (gap at 60) plugs ARE NOT listed as being specifically for my year motor however some old ass LS1.com thread had guys in 2008 running the TR55 on their 99-02 firebirds. The 3 plugs on NGK's website THAT ARE what they sell for the 99' V8 all say to gap them at 40. Perhaps NGK made the adjustment to their website a long time ago when the service update was released. Is it possible I'm over gap and having misses and that's throwing the o2 code because of improperly burnt fuel on the 02 sensor? or would the the computer throw a different code? I'm not sure how specific or complicated ECU's will throw codes. I literally might just have the wrong plugs in my car... Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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Up for sale is 1x ECU from a 1989 300zx NA 5Speed car. In perfect condition. Ready to use. This ECU can be reprogrammed for the Jim Wolf Technology 450HP KIT for the 81/83 ZXT and the 84-89 ZXT. (16 BIT ) http://jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/280%20Z31%20450HP%20UPGRADE.PDF The number on the cover is A18-A00 M84. Nissain part number is 23710-25P00. I'm asking 100$ (obo) + shipping + Paypal fee (2.9%)
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Order the MS3 Pro Ultimate here The MS3Pro Ultimate is a new ECU that pushes the MS3Pro design as far as it will go, with more inputs and outputs and the features customers with big horsepower engines have demanded. Here's a short list of what we added to the hardware: - Peak and hold drivers (software selectable 4/1 or 8/2) - 5 more analog inputs - Onboard 4 bar MAP and barometric pressure sensor connectors - 2 more VR conditioners - for Coyote cam sensors, vehicle speed sensors, and more - 7 more switched inputs - 4 more on/off or PWM outputs - Status indicator lights And there's a new firmware upgrade out to support the MS3Pro Ultimate which you can also load to any current MS3Pro. The new firmware brings several new features: - CO2 dome pressure boost control - Four wheel traction control - More records in SD card data logs This new version of the MS3Pro sells for $1499 with an 8' flying lead harness. For those who don't need all the extra I/O, we still have the entry leave MS3Pro available too.
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Hello, Need a spare/replacement ECU? FS is an 83 ECU [A18-605-581] - $75 OBO Shipped. Need the AFM to go with it? FS is an 83 Turbo Refurbed AFM [A31-624-600] - $40 OBO Shipped.
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Want good condition ecu. Would like harnesz as well. Looking for maf as well
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I'm looking for an ECU and paired harness for an '83 L28et, it is my understanding that any of the years are compatible as long as they have the harness from that year as well. I have the 5spd but I believe the auto ecm works as well. Any advice on where to find one for relatively cheap would be welcome as well. thx!
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History: bought a hacked up l28et swap in a '78 280z and I'm trying to figure out what is what. It took me forever simply to find what front brake pads were on there! (from a toyota 4x4) I was able to find that out, and most of what I need, from researching posts on here, but there is one thing I'm having a really hard time finding, and that's the proper ECU for my engine. The one that was in there is #A11-600 000, and I'm relatively confident that that is indeed from the original '78 N/A engine, and wont work with the existing '83 turbo engine. right now it's running SUPER rich and everything else has been tested/replaced. I found a few used ones that claim they are from an '83 turbo #A11 654 806, but some forums say that those #'s only are from the N/A model. help please! I've been doing a ton of research and every time I find what I'm looking for it conflicts with what I've found already, before I buy anything I'd like to know for sure it's the right one. Thanks, Caleb
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83 turbo ecu blinking rapidly under throttle and missing in high rpms
280znewbie posted a topic in S130 Series - 280ZX
Hello i have a 76 280 with an l28et swap from an 83 zx. recently the car has had a terrible miss in the high rpms once it is fully warmed up. Also the ecu green led blinks 15-20 times in a 10 second period instead of the 5-10 it should (it used to) the car will run WOT on boost up until about ~3750rpm then it just misses. I did the resistance tests on the air flow meter, chts, and air temperature sensor and they all passed. replaced the o2 this morning and id still runs badly. the car also hates to cold start. u have to crank and crank forever. -
I'm looking for a L28et Harness w/ Z31 ecu conversion which would include: Harness, z31 turbo ecu, maf, & wheel. I would prefer it to be pulled from a running car. If no one can offer me the entire setup, I will start hunting for parts of the setup.
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From the album: 2015 winter project
We relocated the msd box and the ecu under the dash on the tunnel -
Best Option for Engine Management on LS Swap
LS7 posted a topic in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Hi everyone, I am new to the HybridZ community, but I have been a lurker for a while now. I've begun the planning phase of swapping a modified LS7 into my 240Z. I have most of the build planned out, but I am stuck on what the best option is for engine management. I know there has been success with both OEM computers as well as aftermarket systems. I suppose my question revolves around what is needed to successfully integrate an LS motor from an electronics standpoint, and are there any serious limitations on using an OEM Computer/Harness setup? Also, if I missed the relevant threads in my searches, I apologize and hope you all are kind enough to point me in the right direction. Thanks in Advance... -
Tech 3R with latest updates. Took off my running car. A few more things I have added: Wiring harness, trigger wheel, map sensor and O2 module. $1400 OBO
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Hi to ya all. I finally got my new car over to Norway. I have a problem and that is that the car wont rev over 4000rpm, ive installed new spark plugs, new fuel lines, new filter. The old owner told me that the car has a engine from a "81 and the car has the original wiring and original ECU for the 280z. But then i dont have any detonation sensor or O2 sensors attached, in my head its not good. The car has a manual boost controller set at 10PSI. Why wont the car rev up? And is it just for me to get an ECU for turbo do i then need to change the entire engine wiring? If so does anyone have a wiring,ecu,and distributor they want to sell me? How about stand alone system, what is the cheapest and easiest setup? This is the old car to Scoutman75 on this forum Thanx for any replyes, Best regards from Norway
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I'm looking to get the following electronics from an '82-'83 ZX turbo: - Wiring harness - ECU Also need a driveshaft from a manual '82-'83 ZX turbo that has the BW T5 transmission. Located in Everett, WA. A bit north of Seattle. Hoping to get the electronics for $150 or less and the driveshaft for under $100. Doing an L28ET swap into a '76 S30 so if you've got anything else that you think I might be interested in feel free to shoot me a pm. - Brandon
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I am going to switch electronics over Megasquirt. So I will not need any of the following items. The MSD items have never been used well below retail prices. MSD 6A box $195....Sold MSD Tach Adapter 8910 $35.....Sold MSD Blaster coil $40.....Sold Rear control arm bushings $20 1982 280zxt ecu stock $60 1982 280zxt coil/with ignitor $50 Turbo AFM rebuilt like new $60 Turbo AFM no cover works $30 All these prices including shipping in the US, excl Hawaii.
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I have had this listed for awhile with no real interest. Making a new listing to be more specific and clear clutter. I have for sale a barely used SDS EM4-6F with version 16 upgraded chip included. Had it in my 87 Z31t. Has the distributorless ignition and optional Air/Fuel gauge with O2 sensor. I'm selling so I can raise money to finish my RB26 swap. Price is reduced from previously listed (this cuts a large way into my negociation area). Here are some pictures of the setup I have. It includes both clockwise and counter-clockwise TPS, 3-BAR MAP sensor, air intake temperature sensor, coolant temperature sensor, O2 sensor, A/F gauge and all other shown pieces. Harnesses are complete and the only thing needed to install is the magnets for the Hall sensor. Hall sensor has been modified to mount but this has not affected it's operation at all. Asking $850 shipped using Large Flat rate shipping box from USPS. Any other shipping might be extra.
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Well, here goes. I suppose an introduction is due before diving into the oil and grime. My name is Andrew, I'm nineteen and a community college student, saving funds to start an EE degree program at University of Texas at Austin. I own and drove a 1978 280z, orange with black stripe, and mixed history. I picked up this car through datsun trader, then found it for cheaper on eBay. Primarily interested in it for the lack of rust, I bought it and shipped it home, well aware engine longevity could be a problem. Then again, these engines were supposedly indestructible, or so I thought. About two months ago I was driving back home from Springfield, MO, during a blizzard. High winds, bad aerodynamics, and poor traction had my eyes glued to the road, and I failed to keep my eye on the other gauges in my dashboard. Apparently a piece of road debris cut into my oil pan, and I didn't even notice it. Soon, that starved engine grinding noise came from my engine bay, and the car died as I clutched in. Long story short, it took several friends, two tows, and about $270 to get my car home. Then came the decision of finding another stock NA block or going turbo. I would have preferred to find a full turbo parts car, but after searching local listings on multiple sites, finding someone selling it cheap wasn't going to be a simple matter. Then, about five hours away, or $70 drive with my mother's Buick, I found a JDM turbo block ordered a good ten years ago sitting in someone's garage, paperwork and everything included. Picked it up for $150, stuffed it into the back seat, and buckled it in. (Damn, that sucker was heavy, even with three guys trying to stuff it into my mother's car) After that was removing the old engine. Fairly straightforward. Then drop the new one it. Too bad I didn't notice I was dropping it in with the motor mounts reversed. Took me a while to figure out why my transmission was tilted. I went on a parts hunt, along with diving heavily into the torrent of information on here. It feels nice to say I actually understand how my car was put together now. Basically, here's my parts list: Stock turbo system DIY'd MBC - not run yet 1st Gen DSM BOV - I actually welded this to the before-turbo intake pipe. I'm an idiot, I know. But I guess I'll leave it off until I find an IC to mount as well. 81 block, 82 harness/dizzy with 85 chopper wheel, 87 ecu, 85 MAF. I have a new fuel pump, but not even Bosch can give me information regarding its flow rate, so that puts a stick in my installing it. z31 ignition coil and power transistor still running the original transmission, no problems with it. Redline mt-90 is the best stuff ever. 4.11 LSD R200 diffy 370cc ford brown top injectors Most of the fun came in the wiring, where the original owner took a few glances at the wiring diagram, screamed "F*** this S***" and did his own thing. That was fun. Fried two coils before getting it right. I guess that means I should never assume anything. Ever. Not with this car. Well, I finished all the wiring, and after all is said and done... So there's a few timing issues, and I failed to notice there was a plastic plug holding in my oil at the oil filter sandwich. Oil went everywhere. Yeah, not a single place in town could make fittings, (NAPA just opened, and Autozone and O'reilly were stumped. The plumbing shop couldn't help either) so I had to jury rig something with hydraulic lines, JB weld, teflon tape, and ultra black permatex. That's a shot of how messy my shop is. I'm moving pretty quickly with this considering how much time I've had allotted for it. I just finished finals in college so this past week I finally got the engine running. I'll always appreciate a few comments. The main one is regarding installing the distributor shaft. I've heard to install it at 11:25 when at #1 TDC, but A, I had to find my own TDC with rope and a file, and B, I can't really find the picture in my FSM I downloaded. I'm fine with just a page number if you guys know which fsm has an install picture. I might be a bit off, so are there any tricks to optimizing timing without the marks? My power goals are about 280 hp at the wheel. I figured it'd be a nice tribute to the nomenclature of the s30 I drive. Maybe in the future I'll go crazy (after I have my degree and a bit more of an idea what I'm doing) for super high horsepower numbers, but right now a hair under 300 hp is fine with me. I'd like to thank awolfe for his wiring diagram. Saved my life. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/misc-s30/44992-somewhat-color-wiring-diagram-1978-280zs-enjoy.html I'd like to thank afshin for his guide to adapting the ECU http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/26230-z31300zx-ecumaf-to-280zxt-swap-guide/ I'd like to thank Tony D, NismoPick, and Bleach for the information they've provided on multiple occasions, and for making me laugh through this otherwise strenuous research phase. And I wish I could thank the rest of the OPs who created topics asking the same questions I had as I was doing this. Where are the wiring diagrams for the z31? I've been unable to find them anywhere. Color would make my eyes less... Crossed, as I follow the pinouts for the efi system.
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I'm in need of an ecu wiring harness from a 1983 280zx turbo in good condition. Thanks.
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I searched, but didn't see that anyone else has tried this - but my search might not have returned everything. Anyone try this option and what were your results? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PFFC15 It looks to be an exchange process, where you send them your working ECU and you recieve this re-mapped ECU. I'm interested in this b/c it would be a simple plug-n-play, no muss, no fuss (I'm assuming). Let me know what you guys think. -Green Goblin
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82/83 Turbo Engine Harness-$150 83 Turbo Ecu- $150 Turbo Fuel Injectors- $100 Turbo AFM- $80 Stock T3 Turbo-$150 Front Mount Intercooler plus piping, fit s30, all piping with coupling from turbo to throttle body. Plug and Play- $300 Turbo Manifold- $80 82/83 Dizzy complete with cap and rotor and wires-$125 82/82 oilpump and shaft- $150. Oil pump has about 1k miles on it. Stock knock sensor- make offer Cylinder head sensor- make offer 240sx 60mm throttle body, spacer, already modifed to bolt onto l series manifold- $100 I have more stuff from engine not listed, just send me a pm if you need something else.
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I have two 300zx turbo ecu's. First is an 87 turbo with numbers on stamp: '26' A18-680 M90... $125 shipped Second is an an 88 turbo with '30' A18-A06 M96... $125 shipped I also have an 88 non turbo with '24' A18-A00 M84... $125 shipped A 300 turbo maf with number on orange stamp of 22680 30P00 A36-000 N62.. has had ends cut for 3 inch boots to fit on directly also has no pigtail $40 shipped I have a set (4) of 'd' shape diamond racing wheels that have never had tires mounted... they are 15x10 with a backspace of -4.5... $400 shipped I am located in Tulsa, Oklahoma and all items will be shipped from here...
